Vevor 5kw Diesel Heater Part 1

[PaulRainbow]

Post 12 shows what I see others on YT fit instead of the supplied version.

The transom locker is intended mounting area ... not sure about how well sealed off from aft under cockpit bunk area ....

Looks reasonably closed off ....

Same other side.

Don't think you should use the one from #12 in a boat:

"The upgraded silencer has two small holes on one side. The two holes are for drainage. The side with the holes needs to be installed underneath. When venting, water vapour is sometimes produced and condensed water will drain through both holes.

It is recommended to be Installed at outdoor."

If you use the Planar silencer it is fully welded with no drain holes and is less than half the price of the Eber/WEbasto ones, at £31

 

[Refueler]

Don't think you should use the one from #12 in a boat:

"The upgraded silencer has two small holes on one side. The two holes are for drainage. The side with the holes needs to be installed underneath. When venting, water vapour is sometimes produced and condensed water will drain through both holes.

It is recommended to be Installed at outdoor."

If you use the Planar silencer it is fully welded with no drain holes and is less than half the price of the Eber/WEbasto ones, at £31

Ok ... as I said in first post ... this is a new exercise for me ...

Planar as I understood is Russian but moved to Latvia ... so I may be able to connect with Planar direct for bits and pieces ...

mmm loacl links send to :

Autoterm.com - Products

I don't care about brand name as long as it works !!

>>>>> Autoterm.com - New marine

 

[PaulRainbow]

Ok ... as I said in first post ... this is a new exercise for me ...

Planar as I understood is Russian but moved to Latvia ... so I may be able to connect with Planar direct for bits and pieces ...

mmm loacl links send to :

Autoterm.com - Products

I don't care about brand name as long as it works !!

>>>>> Autoterm.com - New marine

Shop.autoterm.com - assy.3535 - Silencer with mounting kit - AUTOTERM

 

[Chiara’s slave]

And as Paul said, and I would underline, it’s not noisy without a silencer. On the sound KISS principle of marine engineering, why bother? Ours is a lot quieter than the Sunfast 50 belonging to friends, which has notyet had a complaint. I think theirs is an official Eber.

 

[Refueler]

Silencer or no ... because I am planning mount in that transom locker ... which would put heater at least 3m from companionway - silencer is probably not needed at all ...

Its funny actually because i have heard some boats with what was a low jet engine style noise and other boats you'd hardly know they have anything .. I think that can come about by the mounting position and if a resonant box ..

OK .. lets say no silencer ... and I use the woven tube insulation ... I did look at the velcro wrap style ... but lets stick with the tubular woven ... how hot does the insulation get - does it need sectioning off from usual locker gear ??

I note that exhaust is not to be higher than the exit of heater ... so means heater high up .. exhaust pipe lower and with slight down incline to stern .... anybody ever put an upturned U in the pipe run to avoid water getting back to heater from stern pitching in seas ?

 

[Refueler]

You can tell from my posts - I'm putting together a game plan and don't want to rush into this ...

 

[PaulRainbow]

Silencer or no ... because I am planning mount in that transom locker ... which would put heater at least 3m from companionway - silencer is probably not needed at all ...

Its funny actually because i have heard some boats with what was a low jet engine style noise and other boats you'd hardly know they have anything .. I think that can come about by the mounting position and if a resonant box ..

OK .. lets say no silencer ... and I use the woven tube insulation ... I did look at the velcro wrap style ... but lets stick with the tubular woven ... how hot does the insulation get - does it need sectioning off from usual locker gear ??

I note that exhaust is not to be higher than the exit of heater ... so means heater high up .. exhaust pipe lower and with slight down incline to stern .... anybody ever put an upturned U in the pipe run to avoid water getting back to heater from stern pitching in seas ?

I've fitted some where the exhaust comes from the through hull, up to the underside of the side deck, back down and to the heater, same idea as a vented loop for water pipes etc (without the vent).

The silencer isn't there to silence it onboard, it's to keep the noise outside down. Both of mine are very quiet without, in fact, when i recently replaced one of my unsilenced Webastos with a new Planar i still didn't fit the included silencer. but i can't vouch for the Chinese ones. I know what you mean about the jet engine ones though.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

Maybe the nouse level also relates totye length of the exhaust. Mine is well over a metre.

 

[Rappey]

Maybe the nouse level also relates totye length of the exhaust. Mine is well over a metre.

Maybe the amount of bends may make a difference ? My exhaust is stainless tube, better gas flow. Corrugated must be horrible for gas flow ?

 

[Refueler]

Maybe the amount of bends may make a difference ? My exhaust is stainless tube, better gas flow. Corrugated must be horrible for gas flow ?

Corrugations would affect flow if serious flow - the turbulence .... but I think with the low-ish flow rate of these heaters ???

 

[fredrussell]

Question :

If I use the supplied plastic 10l tank with the bottom feed .....
Does the tank need to be lower than the heater unit to avoid fuel flowing by itself or is it cured by just having pump higher than the heater ?

Don’t know if others answered this but, no - it doesn’t matter if tank is higher than heater or pump. If you use the 10 litre tank rather than using the ‘through tank’ take-off I would buy one of the cheap Chinese stand pipes that are available for pennies on eBay, exactly for this purpose. No risk of a leak with a stand pipe. In fact, have a good search through all the gubbins that came with heater as the stand pipe is often included in kit.

 

[Refueler]

I've fitted some where the exhaust comes from the through hull, up to the underside of the side deck, back down and to the heater, same idea as a vented loop for water pipes etc (without the vent).

The silencer isn't there to silence it onboard, it's to keep the noise outside down. Both of mine are very quiet without, in fact, when i recently replaced one of my unsilenced Webastos with a new Planar i still didn't fit the included silencer. but i can't vouch for the Chinese ones. I know what you mean about the jet engine ones though.

What about the temp around the exhaust ?

 

[Refueler]

Don’t know if others answered this but, no - it doesn’t matter if tank is higher than heater or pump. If you use the 10 litre tank rather than using the ‘through tank’ take-off I would buy one of the cheap Chinese stand pipes that are available for pennies on eBay, exactly for this purpose. No risk of a leak with a stand pipe. In fact, have a good search through all the gubbins that came with heater as the stand pipe is often included in kit.

Kit does not have stand pipe ... it has a bottom feed nipple bolt only. Video in first post shows this .....

 

[PaulRainbow]

What about the temp around the exhaust ?

My exhausts are both insulated with this: EXHAUST LAGGING SLEEVE 22m to 24mm

Safe enough for it to touch GRP or ply. Don't think ropes or fenders would come to any harm, but could add some more insulation if you were concerned, i never have.

Ref the fuel tank. My preference is to run from the main fuel tank, unless you especially wanted to run on kerosene. An extar standpipe is one method, another easy one is, if you have CAV style filer heads, use the spare outlet. Remove the blanking plug, drill it and braze a stub in to suit the heater fuel line. Using the CAV saves a second filter, otherwise, a small outboard style fuel filter suffices.

 

[Refueler]

My exhausts are both insulated with this: EXHAUST LAGGING SLEEVE 22m to 24mm

Safe enough for it to touch GRP or ply. Don't think ropes or fenders would come to any harm, but could add some more insulation if you were concerned, i never have.

Ref the fuel tank. My preference is to run from the main fuel tank, unless you especially wanted to run on kerosene. An extar standpipe is one method, another easy one is, if you have CAV style filer heads, use the spare outlet. Remove the blanking plug, drill it and braze a stub in to suit the heater fuel line. Using the CAV saves a second filter, otherwise, a small outboard style fuel filter suffices.

Good info ref exhaust thanks ...

Fuel tank ... the engine tank is buried under cockpit and not so easy to get to ... so the supplied plastic tank is going to be used.

 

[Refueler]

I understand it may not be the normal way - but I would like to keep this heater system as independent as possible .. fuel and 12v ..

IMHO - we all have a tendency to add loads onto existing systems .. then look for ways to support it. My 38 at this time appears to be at a manageable level .. so I don't want to add and then suffer ...

I have a spare solar .. I have spare batterys .. it comes with a tank ... I have space to create installation ... so why not have it independent ?

 

[Refueler]

OK .. lets look at figs ...

Lets say heater averages 5A during use ...

90A.Hr Battery at 50% gives 45 ...

That's in theory 9 hrs ...

Solar at 20W .. gives back 1.5A ... meaning 30hrs charging.

Now lets look at running it. With thermostat - it may run 2hrs - then reduce .. cutting in each hour for maybe 20 mins ??

Overnight as we boaters are usually early risers .. lets say 'sleeping' 6hrs. That;s 2 x 5 + 4 x 5/3 .... = 16.6

Solar will be charging for example 10hrs once daylight ... = 15

..... so with access to shore power at odd stops ... even a simple low solar setup can actually extend the batterys cycle ...

Just to point out - I said 20W based on a 40W solar and poor sunlight ..

 

[Chiara’s slave]

We have 280w of solar, S UK. On a gloomy winter day we get that 20w. The best winter days, at midday we hit about half power.

 

[fredrussell]

Now lets look at running it. With thermostat - it may run 2hrs - then reduce .. cutting in each hour for maybe 20 mins ??

If you run heater like this, each time it comes on again it uses the glow plug, which uses a fair few amps. Most people run these heaters on constantly, that is to say you just control heater by pump rate. With a big house bank it matters less, but with a separate battery, charging (or not - see post #38) from a 40w panel, you want to be using the glow plug as little as possible

 

[fredrussell]

I have a spare solar .. I have spare batterys .. it comes with a tank ... I have space to create installation ... so why not have it independent ?

Because you will soon tire of topping up the heater fuel tank (I know I did when my boat one had a separate tank) and because your 40watt panel won’t keep up with the heaters electrical demand in the colder months when you’ll be using the heater.

As an example, my small VW camper has a 2kw heater that comes on once a day for one hour to pre-heat van during cooler months. The van has a 200w panel on roof connected to a 50ah lithium house battery and that setup won’t keep up with the heaters demand. Once a month or so I charge lithium battery from the alternator to get it full again. This in the Uk. I’m assuming your winter sun levels are not too dissimilar to ours, no?