Varnishing Tiller?

Little Rascal

Little Rascal

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I'm currently re-varnishing a tiller - oak I think.

I have had to sand it back quite a way to get rid of a few dings.

Is it best to sand to a very fine finish or leave it with a slight key? I'm currently down to P80 grit...

Any suggestions for which varnish? It's here at home so I plan to do many coats!
 
Rather depends on what finish you're after.
Oak can have quite a deep grain and to get to a high gloss, perfectly smooth, finish you'll need many coats, rubbing down in between each until the grain is filled an then a few coats more. This'll require going down through the grades to at least 240 grit. If you're not after such an end result, you can be happy with just applying about 4 or 5 coats with quick de-nibbing in between - but you'll still need to go down to at least 120 grit. 80 is pretty coarse and will leave comparatively deep scratches in the grain [always sanding with the grain, as you know]. Personally I'd go to 120 even for the first coat.

Now, which varnish? There you're opening up a can of worms!
 
lesweeks said:
Rather depends on what finish you're after.
Oak can have quite a deep grain and to get to a high gloss, perfectly smooth, finish you'll need many coats, rubbing down in between each until the grain is filled an then a few coats more. This'll require going down through the grades to at least 240 grit. If you're not after such an end result, you can be happy with just applying about 4 or 5 coats with quick de-nibbing in between - but you'll still need to go down to at least 120 grit. 80 is pretty coarse and will leave comparatively deep scratches in the grain [always sanding with the grain, as you know]. Personally I'd go to 120 even for the first coat.

Now, which varnish? There you're opening up a can of worms!
Click to expand...

Epifanes or Epifanes
 
I agree 80 grit is too coarse. It would be too coarse even for painting IMHO

180 I reckon before the first coat. Rub that down with 180 or even 240, apply several coats, rubdown with 240 if necessary between coats and rubdown with 320 before the final coat.

IMHO opinion its best to avid rubbing down between all the coats ... no sense in keep removing the stuff...if there is no reason to.

Thin the first coat by about 10%

Make sure you remove all the dust after sanding. Tacky rag or even a damp sponge.

Always sand with the grain. That's easy with a tiller!
 
It's worth doing properly with dozens of coats, and very theraputic at this time of year.

Consider making a spare tiller if you can get hold of any suitable hardwood, a canvas cover to help it last longer might be nice too & easy to make. I used to store mine (when I had one) and the Summer washboards in the cabin over winter & had a set of cheap WPB washboards for winter security.
 
Searush said:
It's worth doing properly with dozens of coats, and very theraputic at this time of year.

Consider making a spare tiller if you can get hold of any suitable hardwood, a canvas cover to help it last longer might be nice too & easy to make. I used to store mine (when I had one) and the Summer washboards in the cabin over winter & had a set of cheap WPB washboards for winter security.
Click to expand...

I like that, I think I might do the same!
 
Thanks guys - as I said, it's here at home so when I get bored I pop out and do a bit more...

All my wood work comes home with me - it's a trailer sailer! But I like the idea of washboards for posh, Searush...
 
Searush said:
It's worth doing properly with dozens of coats, and very theraputic at this time of year.
Click to expand...

A dozen coats would be good - thinned first - I tend to start off with jar of ~40% thinners, then just kept topping it up with varnish towards the final coats.

After the first half dozen coats, start rubbing it down with scotchbrite pads or fine wire wool.

If you keep a bit of boat in your garage, you can give it ten coats (morning and night) over a week in the winter as you use your car ;-)
 
Little Rascal said:
I like the idea of washboards for posh, Searush...
Click to expand...

I now have a "yard washboard" for winter, having seen the suggestion in PBO (possibly the only "sketchbook" item I've actually been able to use :) ). It's just an offcut of OSB daubed with leftover fence stain, but it keeps the water out, saves wear on the real boards, and in theory allows me to give them a varnish touchup (not that I've had time yet). I made a big vent by routing lots of slots and then knocking up a sort of cowl over them.

Pete
 
parsifal said:
Le Tonkinois. Easy to apply, lasts well
Click to expand...

Another vote. On my trailer sailer and my dinghy I have sanded back to good wood, stained, saturated with Structural Plastics 3000 penetrating epoxy and then varnished with Le Tonk. It has worked brilliantly in both cases. The dinghy was done three years ago and has been somewhat neglected but the tiller looks likes new. The trailer sailer has seen more action and needs a touch up coat of Le Tonk after two years (easy job).
 
I am a pro varnisher and I suggest you have 2 alternatives:
Firstly you go the traditional way of Epifames normal varnish.
Thin the first 3 coats progressively 80% 50% 25% sanding with P220
in between. Then put on as many coats 5% thinned as you like
sanded with P220 in between. The top coat is normally retrospective:)
The second option starts with 4 coats of 2 part clear primer such as Wood Impreg 120 or Epifanes PP. They can be hot coated without sanding
so that you can put on at least 2 coats per day.
Then use normal Epifanes for the UV protection as above.
This solution gives a high strength finish but ensure that you seal all the wood completely as any chance of water ingress will ruin everything.
Cheers,
Chris
 
Well the varnishing is progressing...

I used International Original as that was all there was in local chandlery.

I have a two questions:

I'm now up to about 5-6 coats starting very thin and now up to 'full strength'... All these coats were put on without sanding back (within a few hours of each other) but I've had to leave it a few days. How long before I can sand back and start again? Its been about 4 days but sanding (P240) is still tacky not dusty? Should I wait?

Secondly - as I had hung the tiller up to dry I got a bit of a saggy bubble on the end... This is clearly still liquid inside. How should I tackle it? Just wait for it to harden? Bleed it like a blister? Or remove it, dry it and sand it back?

Thanks... Jon
 
C'mon you are not having to sand the whole boat!
ALWAYS sand nornal varnish between coats with P220.
30 minutes of your time is nothing.
Drips can be taken off with a scraper and then sanded with P220.
Cheers,
Chris
 
Well I don't mind sanding - but the drying time is potentially a problem cause I want to go sailing!

How long should I let it dry before sanding?

Is it just to give the next layer a key?
 
I think you probably put to many coats on too quickly.

One thinned coat and a minimum of three unthinned coats should be applied. 24 hours between coats is usually satisfactory. Sanding with 320 grade paper between coats.

Let it dry until you can sand it without it seeming to be tacky, it should not take long in the current weather, although it wont seem as dusty as old varnish.

Probably remove the drip from the end with a sharp chisel or knife before allowing it all to dry.

Allow it to dry thoroughly before using.


Read and follow the manufacturers data sheets ! See HERE
 
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