Trouble comes in threes !!

[Seastoke]

Be careful with heat ie fuel.

 

[Refueler]

Be careful with heat ie fuel.

My exhaust elbow is bang under the rear big carburettor !! I don't think a good idea to put heat around there ...

 

[TK Blue MAX]

Be careful with heat ie fuel.

All the heat is inside the induction coil , much safer than a flame,

My exhaust elbow is bang under the rear big carburettor !! I don't think a good idea to put heat around there .

Induction heater probably produces a more concentrated heat than the exhaust elbow

 

[JOHNPEET]

OK .... decided to have another look and go at the two smaller jobs ...

Prop shaft anode ... blimey that was a doddle ... lock prop - remove centre bolt ... unscrew cone boss revealing inner prop bearing and splined shaft ... slide off prop .. slide off bearing shield ... voila !!

Two hex bolts loose that should be tight securing the anode. One the head has been bashed about - but still tightened up fine ... decent Hex driver and she's tight again ... shield / prop / cone / bolt back and she's good.
Note to self - Check bolts at decent intervals. Maybe I will replace before I re-launch after other repairs. Before anyone suggests - I will not use Threadlock ... unless its Blue.

OK - drive lift not working ...

Took a can of Spray Cleaner and cleaned up all I could get to from exterior .... and bingo - I think I now know why ...

The lift motor bottom end of shaft has a large flat disc that pushes onto the release rod of the astern pawl clamp. When I want to raise the leg - the lift shaft by screw action extends down - presses on the release rod to disengage the locking pawl and continues pushing - making leg rise.
The lift motor is not extending the shaft at all ... the relay is clicking - but motor is not turning to wind the shaft down / up.
OK - when ahead is chosen on throttle - I assume the relay is engaged momentarily to just enough release the pawl to allow leg kickup when grounding ... but its not happening - the pawl is staying locked due to lift motor shaft not moving.

View attachment 194211

If I remember correctly, you posted a few weeks ago in regard to the lift motor not working, I think you were planning to arrange for someone to take a look at it! Did this happen? Did you get it working at that point in time or is the failure now the same failure?

 

[Refueler]

If I remember correctly, you posted a few weeks ago in regard to the lift motor not working, I think you were planning to arrange for someone to take a look at it! Did this happen? Did you get it working at that point in time or is the failure now the same failure?

It was looked at and we got it working again .... but it had a quirk - at 50% lift - it would stall ... and a 'bump' of the outdrive would get it to lift the rest. But once up - it would not go down without a 'bump' again ..

So we were aware that something was not right still ... we suspect a hard or worn spot on the worm drive for that.

Now it appears that the lift worm drive is stuck at full down .. as operating the lift switch - nothing happens to the drive rod - except a click of the relay. It also appears to have driven itself to extreme end .... maybe that's why its locked up.

 

[JOHNPEET]

It was looked at and we got it working again .... but it had a quirk - at 50% lift - it would stall ... and a 'bump' of the outdrive would get it to lift the rest. But once up - it would not go down without a 'bump' again ..

So we were aware that something was not right still ... we suspect a hard or worn spot on the worm drive for that.

Now it appears that the lift worm drive is stuck at full down .. as operating the lift switch - nothing happens to the drive rod - except a click of the relay. It also appears to have driven itself to extreme end .... maybe that's why its locked up.

Ok. So when the drive is fully down, the actuating rod within the lift mechanism will be at the top. Possibly stuck against the end of its travel. A couple of points - it would definitely be worth removing the drive motor from the mechanism to disassemble, clean the internals of the motor and check the brushes (replace ideally). The “bump” that you are applying to the drive maybe sufficient to nudge poor brush contact with the motor com. In times of need, it is possible to remove the mechanism drive motor and insert a flat bladed screwdriver and turn the mechanism by hand . The motor just has a plain output shaft with a drive pin at 90deg to its axial rotation which engages with the geared mechanism when inserted. Hope this helps.

 

[JOHNPEET]

Ok. So when the drive is fully down, the actuating rod within the lift mechanism will be at the top. Possibly stuck against the end of its travel. A couple of points - it would definitely be worth removing the drive motor from the mechanism to disassemble, clean the internals of the motor and check the brushes (replace ideally). The “bump” that you are applying to the drive maybe sufficient to nudge poor brush contact with the motor com. In times of need, it is possible to remove the mechanism drive motor and insert a flat bladed screwdriver and turn the mechanism by hand . The motor just has a plain output shaft with a drive pin at 90deg to its axial rotation which engages with the geared mechanism when inserted. Hope this helps.

You can see the motor in the attached photo. Two thin long bolts go through the motor and attach to the gear head

 

[oldgit]

Rumours this motor was similar to the one used in elecrolux vacuum cleaners of the period if you need to source a budget replacement.

 

[Refueler]

Ok. So when the drive is fully down, the actuating rod within the lift mechanism will be at the top. Possibly stuck against the end of its travel. A couple of points - it would definitely be worth removing the drive motor from the mechanism to disassemble, clean the internals of the motor and check the brushes (replace ideally). The “bump” that you are applying to the drive maybe sufficient to nudge poor brush contact with the motor com. In times of need, it is possible to remove the mechanism drive motor and insert a flat bladed screwdriver and turn the mechanism by hand . The motor just has a plain output shaft with a drive pin at 90deg to its axial rotation which engages with the geared mechanism when inserted. Hope this helps.

Hi ... yes - I considered the screwdriver trick other day - but the orientation of the setup is awkward .... better is to remove the lift motor assembly and try to service it ...

When you see teardown videos etc - you see that the whole assembly is not exactly 'rocket science' ...

Boat has now been towed thos morning to yard and they have the job of sorting it ...

 

[vas]

Just bought a cheap Chinese induction heater for a old truck project, witchcraft!!!! 5/8" bolt & nut wouldn't move with long bar , air gun, etc even after soaking, 30 seconds with the heater and you could unscrew the nut with a small ratchet , total game changer for stuck fasteners , bearings etc.
only down side is the unit is about 16" long and 3" diameter, although there are multiple heating attachments in the kit which can be bent to access tight spaces, amazon prime , so just return if not suitable

just to get an idea, are we talking about something like that?

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/JJsdwin-...sprefix=induction+heater+bolts,aps,243&sr=8-6

 

[TK Blue MAX]

just to get an idea, are we talking about something like that?

Yes, that looks like the same sort of thing, I've used oxy/acetylene for years, but this is so much better, localised heat with no risk of damaging other things close by.
It only heats what is in the coil, the bolt/nut will radiate heat eventually, but you mostly have the hot part out by then. Comes with a selection of probes including a flexible one for removing bearings from shafts.
If you get it from amazon , and you don't like it , just send it back, that's the way I thought about it , but I'm keeping mine, its a game changer on old cars and motorbikes etc .

 

[JOHNPEET]

Hi ... yes - I considered the screwdriver trick other day - but the orientation of the setup is awkward .... better is to remove the lift motor assembly and try to service it ...

When you see teardown videos etc - you see that the whole assembly is not exactly 'rocket science' ...

Boat has now been towed thos morning to yard and they have the job of sorting it ...

Yes, it’s not a complex unit overall. The main problem is its location on the transom shield and the difficulty in accessing it as you say. Removing the motor to service the motor is doable or at least it was on the Birchwood that I had many years ago. If you need to remove the whole assembly from the transom shield, I think it’s an engine out job! Good luck with it anyway

 

[Refueler]

Yes, it’s not a complex unit overall. The main problem is its location on the transom shield and the difficulty in accessing it as you say. Removing the motor to service the motor is doable or at least it was on the Birchwood that I had many years ago. If you need to remove the whole assembly from the transom shield, I think it’s an engine out job! Good luck with it anyway

I think it will be removable without 'engine out' ...

 

[Seastoke]

I think it will be removable without 'engine out' ...

Would it not be easier get engine out, do all the jobs properly then enjoy the boat.

 

[JOHNPEET]

I think it will be removable without 'engine out' ...

I hope that’ll be the case for you. Depends on access to it on your boat and whether it’s seized into the transom shield!

 

[Refueler]

Judging by most videos - the lift mechanism seems often to be seized into the transom mount ...

 

[Refueler]

Would it not be easier get engine out, do all the jobs properly then enjoy the boat.

That's up to the engineer ...

 

[oldgit]

The engine out scenerio is an alley best best unexplored if at all possible, will guarantee something will break and need to be replaced/repaired due to age and corrosion and the drip drip money "invested" in the boat starts to exceed its value.
Having sunk loads of cash, a reluctance to not stop spending sets in, just another couple of quid should sort it and while I am at it.................
Do only enough to get it going, enjoy it for what it is.

Betcha a penny to a boat load of cash at some point its going to replaced ?
Something just a tiny bit bigger and better, just like that one over there or perhaps that one.
Diesel and shafts please.

 

[Refueler]

Elbow is in workshop with specialist welder .... he's 50-50 about it ... but will try. Cut back and then insert metal section ...

The rubber connector seen there - guy doing job on engine wants new hose section ... local HansaFlex have silicon pipe same size special for hot / cold installs ... so that will get a new piece.

Outdrive lifter ... guy removed cover to the switch gear on top of lifter ... UGH !! what a mess .... that all needs cleaning up ... plug / socket is slightly corroded and green - so needs good clean up ....
Got a call from him saying the electric motor drive was not working when he removed to test ... so thats in the local Fishing Harbour workshop being cleaned up and refurbished.

Hopefully soo she should be back in the water and purring along ..

 

[oldgit]