Toilet thread

I have both the standard Tecma and the Tecma Nano on my boat and would agree with the comments above about the standard version being much better. However, both work well and are much better than the vacu-flush alternative. In five years of use I've never experienced any problems with either.

I'm a little confused by the comments above about the proximity of the double duck-bill valve to the macerator. Below is the installation diagram for the Tecma Nano ...

Tecma 1.jpg

The double duck-bill valve is inside the part labelled "4" on the diagram, connecting the discharge from the toilet to the pipe leading to the holding tank. However, it should connect to part "E", which is the Short Discharge Tube, and not directly to the macerator pump. In practice this "short" tube is about 20-25cm long and so the valve should be a reasonable distance from the macerator pump. If there is a problem with solid matter reaching the valve I would be inclined to check the bowl is filling correctly with enough water and the macerator itself is operating properly. It should be at close to full speed before the bowl starts to drain, so anything reaching the duck-bill valve should be fully liquidised.
 
I agree all those comments DAW.
Coincidentally I just spent weekend in a cabin with techno nano. It flushed badly normally, but ok if the hole at bottom of bowl was fully submerged before the motor starts. So I’d recommend turning to timer potentiometer on the control box to the maximum, and possibly pressing the “before” button twice. That made it work fine.
 
May be it is the length of that short discharge tube that is different for the Nano vs the other models. I guess the flush water volume can be set to the same value for the different models.
Is the duckbill valve only to prevent siphoning or also odours?
 
Well, having yesterday wasted hours knee deep in brown stuff and done yet another strip down and removal of blocked excrement from my quietflush I’m scrapping the POS. I do know how to poo delicately in these toilets and I do so BTW. My dealer is pushing the Planus over the Tecma as being better. Is he right?
 
Well, having yesterday wasted hours knee deep in brown stuff and done yet another strip down and removal of blocked excrement from my quietflush I’m scrapping the POS. I do know how to poo delicately in these toilets and I do so BTW. My dealer is pushing the Planus over the Tecma as being better. Is he right?
I feel your pain. Jabsco toilets are utter garbage (in my opinion). I'll be interested to see what you go with (Planus / Tecma or other)
 
I feel your pain. Jabsco toilets are utter garbage (in my opinion). I'll be interested to see what you go with (Planus / Tecma or other)
Since unblocking my Jabsco electric heads and discovering a design/installation fault by Beneteau, now corrected and new pipework fitted, I keep a joker valve on the chart table and show new guests what their deposits have to pass through and to emphasise the no paper rule.
 
Well, having yesterday wasted hours knee deep in brown stuff and done yet another strip down and removal of blocked excrement from my quietflush I’m scrapping the POS. I do know how to poo delicately in these toilets and I do so BTW. My dealer is pushing the Planus over the Tecma as being better. Is he right?
Fit a lavac imho.
 
The Lavac still has a joker valve (they call it a TLZ9340 "Outlet valve"). In my experience, 90% of marine toilet problems are user created and revolve around stuff stuck in the joker valve or pipe to the holding tank.
Ain’t that the truth. The only time we’ve ever had a heads blockage was by a guest.
 
The heads never block at home but we share a sewer pipe and gully with the adjacent property.

It was a regular thing for me to overall and glove up and clear a blockage.

The last one was tricky, but the twin screw job on the drain rod bought back a bunch of wet wipes.

A quiet word fixed it. I sad to the Mother "If I fish any more of these out of our shared sewer gully, I shall put them through your letter box!"

"Ahh" she replied "I shall have a word with Rachel!"

It has been fine since.
 
Since unblocking my Jabsco electric heads and discovering a design/installation fault by Beneteau, now corrected and new pipework fitted, I keep a joker valve on the chart table and show new guests what their deposits have to pass through and to emphasise the no paper rule.
Having been myself ankle deep in something no-one wants to be ankle deep in, it's a good plan. The basic pumpy pumpy manual Jabscos seem ok for what they are but mine are about 800 quid a go and looking 'behind the scenes' they are not worth a fraction of that. A complete disregard for maintance and really poor quality control.
 
Since unblocking my Jabsco electric heads and discovering a design/installation fault by Beneteau, now corrected and new pipework fitted, I keep a joker valve on the chart table and show new guests what their deposits have to pass through and to emphasise the no paper rule.
Wonky , what do you wipe your arse with.
 
The Lavac still has a joker valve (they call it a TLZ9340 "Outlet valve"). In my experience, 90% of marine toilet problems are user created and revolve around stuff stuck in the joker valve or pipe to the holding tank.
Its not my experience that problems are mostly user created, as its very easy to follow basic rules and even a total novice learns fast. It is true though, that one will have problems in the joker if you stuff wads of paper in the bowl or don’t let it soften properly. Even worse if plastic or textile thread or baby wipes goes down. Also, just taking care with the paper is not enough a precaution to prevent a jam. If you poo out a golf ball. That can jam it. Been there, got the brown T shirt. Toilets shouldn’t do that. Calcified, blocked pipes - I had that until I learnt to fill and flush a full extra bowl after use. Failures are many and varied.

The most common problem arises from the awful shaft seal as featured in this very thread. That leads to a dribble of sewage on the floor of the bathroom on every use. That’s reason enough to condemn the things, but it doesn’t end there, the corrosive mix also drips on the poorly protected pump and corrodes the unprotected aluminium face. That can eventually split the macerator housing leading to a distortion and a jam of the whole mechanism, it can and eventually will also lead to destruction of the motor bearings, of the commutator, of the windings and almost every part in the whole bloody thing actually. I think I’ve bought 8 motors over the years, plus interim repairs. No more.
 
The Lavac still has a joker valve (they call it a TLZ9340 "Outlet valve"). In my experience, 90% of marine toilet problems are user created and revolve around stuff stuck in the joker valve or pipe to the holding tank.
The joker valve is on the pump and the pump is very suitable for the bilges so shifts most things. I had problems with the pump supplied with my lavac so swopped it for the whale gusher one that has been fine. The lavac supplied one was a 'copy' of the whale one.
I have also started to use Thetford aqua soft toilet paper that 'dissolves' very quickly in 'water'.
 
Well, having yesterday wasted hours knee deep in brown stuff and done yet another strip down and removal of blocked excrement from my quietflush I’m scrapping the POS. I do know how to poo delicately in these toilets and I do so BTW. My dealer is pushing the Planus over the Tecma as being better. Is he right?
since noone replied to your question, I understand that the ppl that worked in Tecma moved out (dunno why) and started Planus. They look almost identical, they work the same, I'd go for the cheapest.
Check heights and pipework routing and possibly the need to do some operation on the plinth it's going to be seated on. Just check the drawings carefully.
And since you're doing that, do the fresh water conversion as well at the same time.
It does make a difference.
 
since noone replied to your question, I understand that the ppl that worked in Tecma moved out (dunno why) and started Planus. They look almost identical, they work the same, I'd go for the cheapest.
Check heights and pipework routing and possibly the need to do some operation on the plinth it's going to be seated on. Just check the drawings carefully.
And since you're doing that, do the fresh water conversion as well at the same time.
It does make a difference.
Thanks. My dealer says some improvements were made to the Planus. To the turbine design and other things.

What advantage did you observe from using fresh?
 
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