Toilet quicky

I doubt that the top end of the pump is below the water line, but to be on the safe side, wrap a rag around the pump tube then loosen the screws on the pump head, break the seal and see if water comes out, if it doesn't then carry on removing the top end of the pump to investigate.
My bet is one of the flap valves not seating properly or the leaver not pressing on the flap valve properly.
 
Talking or writing about it won’t make it any better. You’re going to have to take it apart if it has been established that ingress and egress are clear. It may be that something will be obviously amiss or parts needing to be replaced.
 
VicS said:
The downstroke pumps the waste out AND draws water in from outside.

The upstroke draws the waste out of the bowl and pumps the flush water into the bowl

Therefore, if the pressure is on the downstroke, but is not due to obstruction of the waste being pumped out, the problem is with the incoming flush water.
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johnalison said:
Talking or writing about it won’t make it any better. You’re going to have to take it apart if it has been established that ingress and egress are clear. It may be that something will be obviously amiss or parts needing to be replaced.
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I thought I had made it clear - outlet seacock will not close completely and pump is below waterline.

It is twist n lock though, so it might be possible to take the top of the pump off?
 
Lean the boat against a convenient wall or scrubbing posts and let the tide go out. It will take 1 minute to clear any restriction in the through hull fitting outboard of the sea cock.
 
webcraft said:
I thought I had made it clear - outlet seacock will not close completely and pump is below waterline.

It is twist n lock though, so it might be possible to take the top of the pump off?
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The "Twist n lock" feature will not help because the pump plunger and handle lift away with the pump top. However the vented loop in the outlet hose will prevent water flooding in. Check the vent before relying on it though.
If the inlet seacock closes there will be no lproblem removing the inlet hoses to check them.
There may be a strainer grid on the outside off the inlet seacock/skin fitting which will have to be cleaned from outside the boat.
 
Can you dry out against a wall? Gives you a few hours. Much easier as if you do crack the pipe whilst afloat, boats fill up alarmingly quickly.
 
webcraft said:
I thought I had made it clear - outlet seacock will not close completely and pump is below waterline.

It is twist n lock though, so it might be possible to take the top of the pump off?
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Is there not a joker valve in the outlet? Even if it isn’t fully functional it should stop the boat from sinking for a few days.
 
I think I had a similar problem. One of the flap valves has a weight held on with a circular spring clip. Due to over-vigorous pumping by guests this had become detached, preventing the inlet flap from opening fully and blocking the inlet. Easily refitted if the top of the pump is above waterline and can be unscrewed and lifted off.
 
johnalison said:
Is there not a joker valve in the outlet? Even if it isn’t fully functional it should stop the boat from sinking for a few days.
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Yeah, you can unscrew the pump plunger thingy without flooding if the joker is intact, if it isn't (inverted? common problem) there will be a distinct springiness in the handle.

You really, really, need to make sure your toilet seacocks work. If they seem easy to turn but won't close fully then it sounds like something is stuck in the valve body area.. A bit of back and forth might shift it if it's just bog roll.
 
UPDATE

After six weeks of living with the problem, suddeny an almighty gush of shite into the bowl and all is well.

Inlet and outlet through-hulls too close together!

— W
 
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