Toilet quicky

webcraft said:
UPDATE

After six weeks of living with the problem, suddeny an almighty gush of shite into the bowl and all is well.

Inlet and outlet through-hulls too close together!

— W
Click to expand...
Difficult to relate that to the symptoms described in #1 unless you had managed to suck a brown one back into the inlet.

'
 
VicS said:
The downstroke pumps the waste out AND draws water in from outside.

The upstroke draws the waste out of the bowl and pumps the flush water into the bowl

Therefore, if the pressure is on the downstroke, but is not due to obstruction of the waste being pumped out, the problem is with the incoming flush water.
Click to expand...
Exactly. I have the same problem, as yet unresolved, on my loo. A call to Jabsco soon confirmed the exact same advice that VicS has provided.
 
My Jabsco inlet is blocked, probably with mud from drying out. I guess it should be simple to resolve but I can't physically get the pipe off the pump and seacock. Are they supposed to be removable? or do I cut it and replace?
 
Assume by pipe you mean hose between the pump and seacock. If stiffer style of hose, such as the plastic spiral wound sanitary hose, use boiling water or a heat gun to soften the material. If it is the grey rubber style sanitary hose, much softer, try rotating in the spigots first using a strap wrench.
 
RunAgroundHard said:
Assume by pipe you mean hose between the pump and seacock. If stiffer style of hose, such as the plastic spiral wound sanitary hose, use boiling water or a heat gun to soften the material. If it is the grey rubber style sanitary hose, much softer, try rotating in the spigots first using a strap wrench.
Click to expand...
Yes it's the white one - I just can't get much purchase on it. Could be a good excuse to get a cordless heat gun!
 
If it's been on quite a while it sometimes needs the end of the hose cutting off the hose barb of a seacock and/or pump, I find.

After removing 'Jubilee' type clamp, carefully cut along the bit of hose on the fitting with e.g. Stanley knife, Dremel or hacksaw blade, taking care not to damage the hose barb of the fitting (especially if plastic). You might not need to cut all the way through, or all along the length on the fitting, to weaken it enough to get it off.

If need be for better access to do the above you can cut off the hose immediately above the fitting, but while this gives more room for hands, sightlines and two directions to cut the hose on the fitting from, this means you don't have the leverage of the hose to pull off the remains of the end when it's only partly cut through.

Once you've got it off the fitting, cut the deformed end off the hose and you can re-connect it again if the remaining hose length is enough, otherwise you will need to replace the whole hose.

When buying new hose it can be well worth buying the special flexible butyl waste hose made by Venus and others. Noticeably more expensive (and slightly thicker external diameter) than standard stiff reinforced plastic hose, but much easier to get on and off fittings (so much so I've also used it for e.g. cockpit drains when access is limited). This ease of getting it on and off fitting is especially valuable in larger diameter hoses/fittings, but this type of hose is also available IIRC in smaller sizes for e.g. water inlets.
 
st599 said:
Can you dry out against a wall? Gives you a few hours. Much easier as if you do crack the pipe whilst afloat, boats fill up alarmingly quickly.
Click to expand...
Just have a handy bung to put in to stem the flow. Some Root vegetables work well in an emergency, and are easy to shove in.

The flown in from shallow seacock inlets is not under much pressure, so it'll more Likely to be a drible and easy to stop.
 
LittleSister said:
If it's been on quite a while it sometimes needs the end of the hose cutting off the hose barb of a seacock and/or pump, I find.

After removing 'Jubilee' type clamp, carefully cut along the bit of hose on the fitting with e.g. Stanley knife, Dremel or hacksaw blade, taking care not to damage the hose barb of the fitting (especially if plastic). You might not need to cut all the way through, or all along the length on the fitting, to weaken it enough to get it off.

If need be for better access to do the above you can cut off the hose immediately above the fitting, but while this gives more room for hands, sightlines and two directions to cut the hose on the fitting from, this means you don't have the leverage of the hose to pull off the remains of the end when it's only partly cut through.

Once you've got it off the fitting, cut the deformed end off the hose and you can re-connect it again if the remaining hose length is enough, otherwise you will need to replace the whole hose.

When buying new hose it can be well worth buying the special flexible butyl waste hose made by Venus and others. Noticeably more expensive (and slightly thicker external diameter) than standard stiff reinforced plastic hose, but much easier to get on and off fittings (so much so I've also used it for e.g. cockpit drains when access is limited). This ease of getting it on and off fitting is especially valuable in larger diameter hoses/fittings, but this type of hose is also available IIRC in smaller sizes for e.g. water inlets.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's great advice. I'll try warming it first. I'm not sure it's really stuck, it goes through a very small bulkhead so it's difficult to pull it from either end.
 
RogerFoxTerrier said:
Thanks, that's great advice. I'll try warming it first. I'm not sure it's really stuck, it goes through a very small bulkhead so it's difficult to pull it from either end.
Click to expand...

I should perhaps have mentioned that if you have it partly cut off it can save time to grip an opened up edge of the hose with a pair of mole props to peel or pull the remainder off.

Similarly, if the hose going through the bulkhead is preventing you from effectively pulling it away from the hose barb of the fitting it might be worth considering cutting the hose off at/near the bulkhead, then you have a free end to grip with your hand or with mole grips to try to yank/twist it off the fitting (with or without having cut it at the fitting first). Obviously this will require the whole hose replacing afterwards, but if it's so old/stiffened it is very hard to get off fittings that is probably worth it in case your need to remove it again sometime.
 
Easiest solution is to buy a length of sanitary hose ( your wallet will wince) cut of the existing one clean the fitting soften the new hose in boiling water and fit. 1/2 to 1 hour plus getting the hose.
 
webcraft said:
As I said in the OP, I can't completely shut the outlet seacock, so stripping the pump could get messy . . .

Or can I remove it without flooding the boat?
Click to expand...
Provided the outlet pipe has a loop going well above the waterline and there is a syphon break vent it should not be an issue, although you will get back any liquid between the bowl and the top of the loop
 
We had a blocked inlet pipe the other day. After disconnecting at the heads, I tried a pump type sink unblocker to no avail, pipe too long I think. A moment of inspiration, I rammed the paddle board pump outlet into the pipe. At 7 psi there was a distinct rumbling sound, a seismic moment. Then it blew air continually. Problem resolved.
 
Chiara’s slave said:
We had a blocked inlet pipe the other day. After disconnecting at the heads, I tried a pump type sink unblocker to no avail, pipe too long I think. A moment of inspiration, I rammed the paddle board pump outlet into the pipe. At 7 psi there was a distinct rumbling sound, a seismic moment. Then it blew air continually. Problem resolved.
Click to expand...
Far too much information there :eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top