tiller locks

LONG_KEELER

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Pin holes for me on the last 2 boats ...now electric....exelent but see how long it lasts
Other than when leaving the boat, I use the Autohelm 99% of the time. The only time I use a manual device is when I pick up a foreign mooring buoy under power whilst I scurry forward with the boat hook. As mentioned, it does depend on what type of boat you sail. My boat is quite flighty so cannot really take full advantage of the manual systems.
 

Refueler

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You mean like this? Standard fit on the Golden Hind. Works well. Just not easy to do on most boats.

My Father had GH on order and although I was a young kid then - such items were options - not standard. I can remember my Father sitting down with the Yard discussing so many details .... but due to yard delaying start of build repeatedly - my Father eventually cancelled the order.
We then looked at a beautiful classic ... Kings Amethyst ... moored at Bucklers Hard .... but my Father backed off sadly ..... what a beautiful boat !!
 

Refueler

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Other than when leaving the boat, I use the Autohelm 99% of the time. The only time I use a manual device is when I pick up a foreign mooring buoy under power whilst I scurry forward with the boat hook. As mentioned, it does depend on what type of boat you sail. My boat is quite flighty so cannot really take full advantage of the manual systems.


Because I use my Autohelm literally all time - I have two units just in case ... AH800 and AH1000 .... when pal of mine was replacing the data / remote sockets on them ..... I missed then terribly !!
 

Tranona

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My Father had GH on order and although I was a young kid then - such items were options - not standard. I can remember my Father sitting down with the Yard discussing so many details .... but due to yard delaying start of build repeatedly - my Father eventually cancelled the order.
We then looked at a beautiful classic ... Kings Amethyst ... moored at Bucklers Hard .... but my Father backed off sadly ..... what a beautiful boat !!
You are right in a way. I have a copy of the original price list and just about everything apart from a floating boat was "extra". Perhaps what I should have said is that just about all of the GHs, at least from when Terry took over from Hartwells have pin rails, most with a single row like mine, but others with a double row which allowed for finer control. I had quite a lot of contact with Terry in the 1978-80 period and he told me that the starting point for speccing a new boat was the one that was currently in build - but with minor (or sometimes major!) changes. So once potential buyers saw pin rails, almost all subsequent boats would have them. You can see (particularly if you are a nerd like me) phases where a feature is found on a few boats, then somebody makes a change and you get that in the next few boats. Dinettes is a good example, as is the odd layout in my boat with a wide single offset berth in the forecabin but otherwise "standard" aft of the main bulkhead. Only maybe 3 or 4 boats have this probably because what seemed like a good idea did not appeal to many.

This made it fun when I was looking for a boat as basically you can only buy what is available. I have a file of details of about 40 different boats that have been on the market recently and no 2 are the same originally and of course many have been "improved" over the years. The one I chose is probably the optimum late Erskine (number 208 out of 245 up to when Terry stopped) with the exception of the forecabin - and unchanged from new right down to the orange plastic upholstery. However the odd layout did make the installation of the bow thruster easier as it all fits in the offset berth so you don't know its there.
 
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Poignard

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I found them after posting ... but they only have 1 + 2 .... 3, 4 and 5 unavailable and no info on next stock.
I suppose all you can do is grab whatever volumes you can as they become available. Like I have been doing for decades with books from "The Mariner's Library" series!
 

ditchcrawler

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On several boats I have used a length of doubled up bungee cord clipped to the pushpit at an angle each side with a rope tail which goes through a
clam cleat fairlead on each side of the tiller. It is adjustable for tension by simply pulling or easing the rope/cord through the cam cleat. It holds a course for
a while but also takes pressure off the tiller when it is blowing. If you haven't got a few spare bits it shouldn't cost more than a tenner.
 

yimkin

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A light, shortlink, stainless chain across the cockpit over the tiller secured to stanchions and tensioned on one side by heavy bungee cord. Drop a chain link over a pin on the tiller to keep tiller in position. Lift chain off to disengage. I use the auto pilot pin. I sail single handed and this simple system works very well especially when short tacking in restricted waters. I've used a chain on 3 boats so far.
 

Gsailor

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my new to me boat has a mind of its own when there is no hand on the tiller. the autopilot isnt always an answer so I am thinking of a tiller lock, either the Tiller Clutch ( here )or the Sea Sure ( here ) .

Any comments on real life use of such gadgets would be appreciated. In particular, its likely to be used most in friendly single handed short circuit racing when my autopilot is not really handy enough.
I have never found such a device as good as a tiller pilot. In fact, I never learned to trust one at all.
How can an autopilot be worse than a locked tiller?
 

Andrew_Trayfoot

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+1 fir the TillerClutch.
I imported mine from the US on the back of the PBO review before they were available in the UK.
Fantastic product works perfectly on my Griffon which snatches the rudder if under power.
lengh of string/rope lasts about 2 seasons.. .
 

thinwater

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my new to me boat has a mind of its own when there is no hand on the tiller. the autopilot isnt always an answer so I am thinking of a tiller lock, either the Tiller Clutch ( here )or the Sea Sure ( here ) .

Any comments on real life use of such gadgets would be appreciated. In particular, its likely to be used most in friendly single handed short circuit racing when my autopilot is not really handy enough.

[Note. My comments are NOT based on the cruising cat in the avitar--totally different. I also have a tiller-steered boat, specifically a Corsair F-24.]

I do have a tiller lock (home made from a tripod leg--works great but I practically never use it). I also have a tiller pilot (which I use a lot more because it does everything better).

You say that the tiller pilot is not handy enough when singlehanded racing. Please explain to us, specifically, what operation it gives you trouble with.
  • A short time to adjust jib trim or duck below. The tiller pilot is perfect for this.
  • You want to had steer but keep the pilot handy. Put it on standby and let it hang. The unit should be secured to the boat with a tether. Sometimes the ball-and-socket can use revision. I like to put a short length of hose on the tip and punch a hole in it. Faster on-and-off. But this can be a good use for a tiller lock.
  • Tacking and jibing. In light winds you don't need it; just kick the tiller over and work fast. In more wind the tiller pilot will work.
Tacking with pilot. You should be able to use the auto-tack function, but it may need some modifications.
  • Point high with good speed.
  • Move the winch handle to the new side and put one turn on the winch. Reduce the number of turns on the working winch to the minimum and hold the tail.
  • Press +10 once or twice. Then push auto tack. This will make the boat tack past 90 degrees, giving you more time to trim and avoid irons. It make the tack more reliable.
  • Release the mainsheet a few inches when the boat is nearl head to wind. Again, this is to reduce the tendancy to go into irons. Optional. Release more in stronger winds.
  • Release the jib at head to wind and try to get it in JUST as it is at the right angle to pull (with control, taking off turns as needed--varies with the boat and the wind). This will minimize grinding time and pull the bow through. This should be your main focus.
  • Finish trimming and adjust to best course.
Jibing with autohelm
  • Center traveler and sheet in main. This will make things a lot simpler.
  • Make sure you are 135 degrees off the true wind. Otherwise you won't come out right.
  • Auto tack. Again, focus on the jib. If there is an outhaul, pull it on the new side before jibing.
  • Ease the main and traveler. Be prepared to do this quickly, if you boat is inclined to head up. Keep the sheet handy, so that you can do this while trimming the jib if need be.
Really, a tiller pilot does everything a lock will do, better.

The sheet-to-bungee idea is interesting, but I've never had a boat with enough helm feel at speed for it to make sense to me.
 
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