Talk to me about 12v coolboxes etc...

[Iain C]

At the moment I have absolutley no way of keeping anything cool apart from a coolbag. My beer is often unnaceptably warm so clearly this terrible sitaution needs to change!

I was oringinally going to install a top-entry permament fridge/coolbox under the worksurface in the galley, but the galley on a Sabre is pokey anyway and I think I'd permanently be covering it with pots and pans just as I needed to get into it. I'm leaning much more towards a 12v coolbox, as it can come home, get used for camping etc, live wherever there is some space, and it will be much cheaper. Can I just ask the YBW collective's wisdom on these devices?

-They do seem to vary wildly in price. Is it case of "you pays your money and you takes your choice" or more of a case of "the law of diminishing returns" when you look at the more expensive kit?

-In the language of an electrical moron, what are they like to run? I have heard they are quite hungry, so keeping things simple, will 30 mins on the donkey every day keep the batteries in sufficient state to run one most of the time? Boat is quite simple, all we'll be using whilst sailing will be a VHF, SH CP180 plotter, and a Nasa Clipper log/echosounder, and a gas alarm. At night there will be very sparing use of interior light, no water pumps or similar, and a Forgen generator will be spinning away all the time helping our cause. I intend to install a NASA battery monitor to keep an eye on things, and I do wonder if in the evening I could unplug the coolbox and keep it on deck. I know I could get scientific and work out the exact current draw, but all it takes is a day of no wind and motoring, or a heatwave, and the calculations are shot. I just want to know about a "real world" situation with a twin battery bank setup and modest use/temperature settings on an average day. I don't want kilos of ice for G&T, just milk that will last more than 2 days before gaining sufficient intelligence to suddenly have it's own NMEA output, and butter that comes out of the coolbox still looking like butter, rather than some kind of spreadable stilton.

-I've also seen these battery safeguard devices that chop the power to the coolbox if the voltage drops...are they any good?

Any opinions or recommendations gratefully recieved!

 

[TonyMS]

Bought one from Halfords in 2003. Still works. Uses 3 amps. Provides cool, but not really cold drinks, and stops the butter from melting.

We have 2 56W solar panels. On nice days, one does the battery and the other the cool box. On nasty days, both go to the battery, but the beer stays cool in the bilges.

Tony

 

[Pete7]

Iain we have the Waeco 18CF. 6 years old, been dumped on the beach a few times and generally abused yet still going strong. Uses about 3 amps an hour and very quiet when the compressor is running which is about a quarter of the time. Likes heavy duty wiring if you want the high settings, but be warned, I froze my sandwiches the first time in 40 minutes of use

Just seen the price here, whilst not cheap this is less than I paid 6 years ago at the Marine Superstore. Worth doing a search on these forums as the question has come up before.

http://www.worldofcamping.co.uk/shop/waeco_coolfreeze_cf-18_compressor_cooler__1921

Pete

 

[sarabande]

Waeco every time. Bought a 25 l one over5 three years ago, and it commuted brilliantly between home and the, cheerfully using 240v AC,a nd 12v DC.

I think you can still buy directly.

 

[pampas]

I have a englie (think its spelt right) cool box will go from +6 to -18 c running from Friday1400 to 2300 same. on Saturday until Sunday 1600 takes about 50-60 amperes out of the battery on average, best bit of kit that I have ever bought. Milk stays cool beer just the right temp and allows one to plan longer trips and know that the food is ok.

 

[jwdorst]

If you want any kind of serious refrigeration, make sure you buy a coolbox that works on a compressor (80% are powered by a Danfoss compressor). The alternatives (Peltier and Absorbtion technology) just don't cut it in my opinion.

Compressor types are the most expensive, but they work.

We too have a Waeco 18CF (exact model no longer available I believe) and it has run fine for many hours over the last 8 years.

Oh, and if they exist nowadays, I would go for something with a digital temperature display. Making a guesstimate of the temperature in the box is impossible in my experience, and thermometers inevitable end up right at the bottom of the box.

Good luck on making your choice.

 

[BruceDanforth]

I have a cheap peltier device based unit from halfords. It's pretty ineffective and has the ability to inadvertently warm things up if run when the outside temp is too high. It is very power hungry. Usually I buy a bag of ice and lob that in and don't bother plugging it in.

 

[blackdogsailing]

I bought a 12v cheapy from Towsure (£40 i.i.r.c.). We got it really cold before we left home and whenever possible bought a bag of ice to assist with the 12v. (You absolutely cannot have warm beer or white wine on board !! It worked really well for us.

Chris

 

[blackdogsailing]

Thinking about it a bit more, when we were in the States ( Virginia for the summer ) all the small sailboats would take igloos full of beer and ice which would sit in the cockpit. Each boat bought the one which fitted exactly across the cockpit. No 12v anywhere !
Chris

 

[pheran]

Just to endorse what has already been said - the compressor type is definitely the way to go. Another tip is to make sure whatever you are putting in the box is already cooled down. Easy if you are loading it at home. Then chuck a couple of those freezer blocks in as well (frozen solid of course!) They are pretty compact and make a significant contribution.

 

[William_H]

Cool box

Around here cold drinks are vital on the boat. Cool today only 35 max after a couple of weeks of really hot weather. The "cool box" that can also heat are hopeless. They will suck a lot of current and be barely cool. The compressor type are what you want. Engel are very good. As are all the variations using the Danfoss compressor. You can buy a box fridge or a kit to cool an existing built in icebox. My old Engel used to draw 4.5 amps at about a 33% run time so averaging 1.5 amps. You can crank them up to be a freezer at the cost of more current. Traveling around the outback I kept the Engel running as a freezer and used the frozen food needed for the evening as a cooler brick for an insulated icebox(Universally known in Oz as an Esky.)

However for all that most sailors around here who go on board for a weekend or day trip rely on ice. An insulated box either built in or portable with several 2 litre drink bottles full of frozen water it will last several days. You need good insulation and you need to be a bit sensible about what you put in or use it for.
giver that a try before you buy a compressor type fridge. good luck olewill

 

[Iain C]

Thanks for the advice guys. Whilst the compressor ones look good, they are VERY expensive compared to the standard ones, and to be honest I only need to keep perishables cool mainly for weekend sailing in the Solent...it would be a nice problem to have if it was as warm as Western Australia (I wish!!)

On the Waeco range, is there much difference (apart from price) between the "standard" range and the Tropicool version? From what I can see it's the power save mode and the digital display...

 

[gjgm]

Used a Halfords-type one in the past. As you say, you need to put chilled stuff into it, and as long as you keep the lid closed (!), it keeps things cold. In fact, milk would freeze!
Chucks out a bit of heat as far as I recall, but for £40 or so, was effective for an infrequent opening, but didnt cut it for regular open and close.

 

[Iain C]

Well, I decided that I'd rather spend proper money on some new deck gear for my coachroof winching conversion, so I went for a cheaper version from GoOutdoors. Fifty quid, 12v and 240v inputs, so if I chill it down on 240v before going to the boat, have it running in the car on the way down (got a 12v socket in the boot) and make sure it's got some icepacks in it too, it should do the job. Outwell stuff is pretty good in camping circles, and to be honest all I really need it for is milk, butter and beer for an absolute maximum of four people, so hopefully it will be OK.

I will report back on if it's any good or not, but even if it's not perfect for marine use, it will still be fine for a weekend's mountain biking/camping and I'll sell my soul to Waeco at a later date.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[lydiamight]

Waeco, waeco, waeco----try picking them up first though as they are quite heavy even when empty. Fill one of the larger ones with beer & wine and you will need one person either end to carry it anywhere.

 

[Wunja]

I have a cheap one from LidAldi. Keeps stuff coolish, but the noise of the fan means it gets put in the cockpit at night and is still heard inside.

 

[VicS]

I too have cheap Peltier one from Lidl.

Had not noticed it being excessively noisy but the constant current of 4 amps is too much.

Discovered the handle was broken when I got it home. Took it back and exchanged for another ... broke the handle first time used.

Use it in the car sometimes, that's all.

 

[twinkeel]

Waeco Mobicool (Peltier effect ) does the trick for South Coast / Brittany.

Wine / Beer live in the bilges leaving Mobicool for perishables.

Unless you are somewhere that has summers a compressor type is not really necessary imho.

Only time I have killed a battery was when SWMBO insisted that a compressor based fridge stay on while we sat at anchor for a day before a night crossing.

Mild panic as all the instruments went awol as we aproached Chbg !!

 

[planteater]

I don't really have the power to run either type on my boat so I stick with a passive insulated box. Stick the beer in with a few frozen curries and restock every 2-3 days.

 

[Refueler]

I've had Coolboxes and Fridge boxes on board and I can honestly say the Fridge Box is the answer. Waeco do a good line of small up to large boxes and with 12 + 240V input. Coolboxes are usually all 12v for car use.

Problem is that cars have engine running and banging out plenty amps to drive a coolbox. Boats - like yours and mine have limited battery capacity and we like to switch of engine. That means serious drain on battery.

A Coolbox does not reduce it's amp consumption as box cools - it draws similar whatever .. in my Rubbermaid Box - anything up to 7A ... average 5.5A. BUT a Waeco does reduce it's amp draw as temp goes down - in fact cutting out by regulator .... so overal power need is a lot less.

Guys who bring Waeco's on my boat often freeze my beer in them !!

So power ... how to do it ? Well as I have a power hungry coolbox - I decided I need to protect my batterys and fitted a relay that kicks in when engine starts charging. That way it clicks out when engine is stopped, clicks in when engine is running and charging. How ? Standard headlight relay from a Landrover for a few quid and a few wires ....

Diagram here :

Basically by using the Charge light - when it goes out means alternator is now charging. That feeds the 12v to relay to click in and connect direct leads from battery. I also have option to supply 12v from a mains converter via a switch. The box still has a 12v ciggy plug - so able to be used in car etc. or even to batterys on board without above curcuit.

Now I don't worry about my on-board batterys being sucked dry by the box ! I leave it connected to above auto-circuit and that's it.

I have a dual temp displ;ay - the cheap AAA battery type you can get in any cheapo or DIY place .. with a cable to remote sensor. Main display is in cabin giving cabin temp, remote inside box with lid closed onto cable ... you could of course go cordless if you are flush with money !!