BobWilliamson
New member
I intend to strip to the wood and start again.........any ideas for sealing joints and such prior to the repaint would be gratefully received......BW
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stripping to the wood
- Thread starter BobWilliamson
- Start date
howardclark
Active member
Give us a clue what your stripping!
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BobWilliamson
New member
Just a dinky restoration project. A 16.5' Wave Crest sailer/cruiser.
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howardclark
Active member
I'm 65% of my way through stripping a 14' dinghy. It's ply and we didn't cover it properly last winter resulting in a lot of damage. I never want to have to do this again so:-
1. All paint/primer is being stripped off. The primer in particular is a right b******d. Best result have been with Nitromors and Harris scrapers - use the heavy duty sort with carbide blades that you pull towards you. To get rid of the last of the primer in the grain I've had to resort to Nitromors and wire wool.
2. After repairing the ply the whole boat will be given a coat of epoxy - any standard make will do but there is some SP systems on the shelf.
3. Then the hull will be faired and seams filled using epoxy +microbubbles (makes it much easier to sand and I don't need the wood effect)
4. Next seal all seams with glass fibre tape/mat and epoxy.
5. Finally sand, prime and paint
This should be OK since the boat is a good rigid construction. If you had a carvel hull which needs to 'move' then you need a different approach
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1. All paint/primer is being stripped off. The primer in particular is a right b******d. Best result have been with Nitromors and Harris scrapers - use the heavy duty sort with carbide blades that you pull towards you. To get rid of the last of the primer in the grain I've had to resort to Nitromors and wire wool.
2. After repairing the ply the whole boat will be given a coat of epoxy - any standard make will do but there is some SP systems on the shelf.
3. Then the hull will be faired and seams filled using epoxy +microbubbles (makes it much easier to sand and I don't need the wood effect)
4. Next seal all seams with glass fibre tape/mat and epoxy.
5. Finally sand, prime and paint
This should be OK since the boat is a good rigid construction. If you had a carvel hull which needs to 'move' then you need a different approach
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BobWilliamson
New member
Sorry for the late reply but my email didnt warn me!
Thanks for the info Howard, However I had already considered that option and was shouted down because of the shrinkage which would supposedly take place over time also because of the dis-similar materials used............what are your thoughts about those comments? BW
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Thanks for the info Howard, However I had already considered that option and was shouted down because of the shrinkage which would supposedly take place over time also because of the dis-similar materials used............what are your thoughts about those comments? BW
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DeeGee
Active member
I, and many others, had a Wayfarer dinghy, which was raced and stressed pretty much. It was epoxy coated inside and out, and then varnished on top of that.
Water ingress is easily spotted as blackening of the wood, I only found some of that where I had been careless in putting fittings on without properly treating (epoxy resin, no hardener dripped into hole before applying the bolts/screws).
The stuff about cracking of the coating due to flexure would be true if the panels of your project flex significantly under normally expected loads, otherwise there is still enough flexibility in epoxy resins to cope.
<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all
Water ingress is easily spotted as blackening of the wood, I only found some of that where I had been careless in putting fittings on without properly treating (epoxy resin, no hardener dripped into hole before applying the bolts/screws).
The stuff about cracking of the coating due to flexure would be true if the panels of your project flex significantly under normally expected loads, otherwise there is still enough flexibility in epoxy resins to cope.
<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all