Stern Tube replacement

[Squeaky]

Good afternoon:

I have a stern tube which ends a few inches inside the hull behind the aft bulkhead of the engine compartment which means that any messing around with the stern tube greaser/fitting has to be done behind the bulkhead which is only accessable through a cockpit locker (after removing the locker divider and everything stowed in the locker).

I increased the length of the stern tube by adding an extension pipe of the correct diameter so that I can work on the greaser from the engine compartment access through the port locker without removing the divider and stuff in the aft section. This is much easier.

Has anyone any experience of replacing the entire stern tube with a longer length of material?

If so, what material was used and where can it be obtained?

What is involved in getting the old stern tube out - how is it removed?

You might ask what is wrong with the present setup - I don't like nor trust it and would feel safer and better it was done correctly with one complete length of material.

Thanks in advance

Squeaky

 

[tobble]

Not sure how helpful this will be, but I had to glue mine back in last season when it came out in my hand while trying to remove the cutlass bearing!

I think it was a brass of some description, but that's not to say this is the best material. I would suggest that you choose something that matches the rest of your stern gear, or replace it all. Bronze or stainless would probably be favorite...

Regarding putting the thing back in, my cutlass bearing holder screws onto the aft end of the stern tube, so in order to fix it completely, but not conceal the thread, I sliced of the after end of the deadwood (GRP hull, so this is actually a void), glassed the tube heavily to the inside face of the sliced off bit, then re-assembled the lot with the shaft and engine flanges bolted directly together (i.e. without the flexible coupling), to get the alignment right. then glassed the sliced of section thoroughly back in place. Used epoxy throughout. then glassed the foreward end of the tube onto the forward bulkhead of the deadwood.

no idea how to get it out, that bit was done for me!

hope that helps - have to fly now, but can elaborate and might even have some photos somewhere. PM me if interested

 

[Tranona]

Depends on what type of stern tube it is. If it is a GRP tube then it will be bonded into the hull. If it is a Bronze tube with a screw on fitting either end then you may be able to take the fittings off and drive the tube out. Then you can replace it with a longer tube. However that seems overkill, and you may want to consider replacing the seal with a Volvo seal which is very compact and only needs attention once a year. See the Accessories section of the Volvo Penta website for details.

A picture of your current installation would help.

 

[Boat44]

Had to do ours a few years ago, as an engine mount broke putting everything out of line and the prop shaft wore through the stern tube.

It was a composite tube, with a stainless band bonded to the hull with lashings of chop strand mat.

Very scary taking a hammer and chisel to the bottom of your boat!

New one inserted and rebonded easy enough. (paid a composite company to do it! As i don't thin P45 from halfords would realy cut it!)

 

[narcer]

Depending of course on the type/ lengh etc, as a straight replacement I would always go for phosfa-bronze in relation to quality and longevity. Having done one or two already I would be very careful how you "drive it out" , probably make a straight cut on one side as far as possible maybe with a fein tool if access is difficiult, and then ease it out with minimal damage. Alignment is then critical of course, and always re-bond with an epoxy system. (never use polyester for this).