Stern anchor

[robertager1962]

I know that this is probably an over discussed topic but I wonder if I could ask your opinions on the best type of stern anchor.
We are a 36 foot Southerly 105 currently half way to the med. I have been using our bruce anchor as a stern anchor (this was the bow anchor that the previous owner installed and I replaced with a ROCNA).
As Southerlies are drop keels, I have found a stern anchor essential if we anchor with the keel up as she ranges around like mad (similar to a motor boat.)
The Bruce is fine but very heavy and with no winch on the stern, relies on my ageing back muscles.
I was thinking it about replacing it with possibly a Danforth but would welcome your thoughts

 

[duncan99210]

Fortress or Guardian anchor of the correct size. They’re made of aluminium and the one I’ve got is easily handled. It’s on 5m of 8mm chain and loads of rope.

However, I don’t think you’ll be able to use two anchors in much of the Med, as anchorages are very crowded and if you don’t swing, you’ll wind up with someone sitting in your cockpit. If your boat swings about or much with the keel up, you may want to rethink things and keep the keel down when at anchor in the Med.

 

[sarabande]

If weight on the boat is your primary criterion, then an aluminium Fortress 23 would be a reasoned choice, but it will not be as good as other NG anchors in rocky seabeds.

Again if "stern" anchor implies you are expecting less loading, then a 9 or 13kg Knox could be an alternative..

You say no winch, but if you use a 5m chain from the anchor to a rope warp, then you might be able to use the primary winches to break out.

 

[geem]

If weight on the boat is your primary criterion, then an aluminium Fortress 23 would be a reasoned choice, but it will not be as good as other NG anchors in rocky seabeds.

Again if "stern" anchor implies you are expecting less loading, then a 9 or 13kg Knox could be an alternative..

You say no winch, but if you use a 5m chain from the anchor to a rope warp, then you might be able to use the primary winches to break out.

We use our aluminium kedge anchor on full rope rode. Far easier to manage without the chain. With enough scope the chain has little advantage. Deploying from the dinghy is far easier without the chain. Once you start using steel anchors and chain it can be hard work setting and recovering. So much nicer with light gear

 

[Kinsale373]

I agree with the Fortress as a stern anchor to keep the boat in position. I often use my fortress in enclosed anchorages where there is a small swell coming in from the sea and I want to keep the bow into it for a pleasant overnight . It stows very neatly tied upright to the bulkhead in an aft locker, folded flat. Its a Fortress 23 and its quite light and I use it with only 10m of fairly light Chain and the rest is Warp. for ease of handling and setting and retrieving from the dingy. Its quite easily manhandled in and out of the dinghy which is critical. I also have it set up so I can use it in tandom with my main bow anchor in a blow. From memory, I think that the test performance in sand and mud is very good . I really like my Fortress.

Kinslae 373

 

[BabaYaga]

For many years I have used an aluminium Spade as a stern anchor. This is for mooring with the bow to a quay, jetty or rock and has worked quite well.

Your intended usage sounds very different and I'm unsure if the alu Spade would be suitable. I have found that a reasonable scope is essential for the anchor to bite.

 

[thinwater]

You could use the Bruce off the bow as a hammerlock instead. This is a better practice, for yawing reduction, if a change in wind direction is expected. Wind on the beam with a stern anchor is terrible. There are many variations, but simply dropping the second anchor at the extreme of swing, at quite short scope, stops the swinging. Because the scope is very short the rodes won't foul and recovery is easy.

 

[RupertW]

You could use the Bruce off the bow as a hammerlock instead. This is a better practice, for yawing reduction, if a change in wind direction is expected. Wind on the beam with a stern anchor is terrible. There are many variations, but simply dropping the second anchor at the extreme of swing, at quite short scope, stops the swinging. Because the scope is very short the rodes won't foul and recovery is easy.

View attachment 85704

Still a problem in most anchorages - any solution must let the boat swing 360 unless you can tie back to shore.

 

[Norman_E]

Certainly in Turkey it is usual to anchor with a line ashore, or in larger bays you can swing freely. A rope reel attahed to the pushpit, with about 70 metres of floating rope is far more use than a stern anchor.
In bays where you swing free there will be enough depth to keep the keel dowm.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I know that this is probably an over discussed topic but I wonder if I could ask your opinions on the best type of stern anchor.
We are a 36 foot Southerly 105 currently half way to the med. I have been using our bruce anchor as a stern anchor (this was the bow anchor that the previous owner installed and I replaced with a ROCNA).
As Southerlies are drop keels, I have found a stern anchor essential if we anchor with the keel up as she ranges around like mad (similar to a motor boat.)
The Bruce is fine but very heavy and with no winch on the stern, relies on my ageing back muscles.
I was thinking it about replacing it with possibly a Danforth but would welcome your thoughts

In the med you are more likely to be able to leave the keel down as there are no tides to consider
. Also, think about using a riding sail - my Dufour Classic 30 tends to range about a bit when moored or anchored and I have acquired a dingy jib to hank on the backstay and sheet forward to help reduce the movement.

 

[thinwater]

Still a problem in most anchorages - any solution must let the boat swing 360 unless you can tie back to shore.

A hammerlock can swing 360. Read the exlanation. The second anchor is on very short scope so that it can drag. It's function is to damp yawing, not to hold. You adjust the scope until this is so. Or you can let out scope to get it to set and create a V-tandem. Your choice. But I was suggesting the former; let it drag.

In fact a Bruce is exceptionally good for this sort of very shorts scope and drag applications. No anchor is better.

 

[thinwater]

And yes, the LAST thing you want to do with a drop keel is raise the keel to anchor, UNLESS you also raise the rudder, which you cannot. The center of lateral resistance moves aft and she will yaw all over the place. This is true of all centerboard boats.

 

[RupertW]

Apologies - understood now

 

[thinwater]

Apologies - understood now

Absolutely no need. It is not a well known method. It may be more of a US thing.

The other time it can be helpful is with all rope rode. Let a small anchor just brush the bottom (scope = 1:1.2), and you will swing more like boats on chain. In fact, that is the only time I've used it; when sailing a boat with mostly-rope.

 

[NormanS]

If you really want to stay pretty much in the one position, but be able to swing through 360°, to face into wind or tide, consider a Bahamian Moor.

 

[johnalison]

A smaller Bruce might serve just as well. We have used a 10kg Bruce for our 5 ton 34-footer, mainly for the stern but occasionally at the bow when the CQR misbehaved.

 

[Star-Lord]

You could use the Bruce off the bow as a hammerlock instead. This is a better practice, for yawing reduction, if a change in wind direction is expected. Wind on the beam with a stern anchor is terrible. There are many variations, but simply dropping the second anchor at the extreme of swing, at quite short scope, stops the swinging. Because the scope is very short the rodes won't foul and recovery is easy.

View attachment 85704

Yes this is my preferred method to reduce anchor yaw. And has been explained very well by thinwater. Hammerlock has many advantages. For example if someone fouls your main anchor you have a back up already deployed. I would however use a Rocna one size down from the main (easier to carry with the hoop) and it works better as a back up main. And has a pointy tip which I think will work better than Bruce. But Bruce will still be OK for hammerlock! I use 5m chain 30m rode for basic hammerlock (without thinking of using hammerlock as a secondary anchor). And 10m chain 100m rode for 'more options' hammerlock.

Stern anchor is Fortress - I use F16 (undersized i believe) on 12,5 ton boat. Fortress likes a bit of chain to help it set so 10m of 8mm chain or 5m 10mm chain will be enough. Min 5 meters of chain imo as per Fortress recommendations.

Or just a Delta instead of a Fortress. Fortress can be tricky to set. Delta or Bruce or Rocna just chuck it over no worries. I do believe though for stern anchor no winch a Delta or Bruce will be easier to retrieve than a Fortress that is well set.

 

[Refueler]

I know I'm a small boat at 4 tons and 25ft .... but Baltics calls for a lot of bow mooring and stern anchor.

I can't be a**** to carry my Holdfast plough from the bow ... so I have a choice at the stern (Kedge) ....

Fishermans about 2ft spread and probably 2.5 - 3kgs .... or a nifty little copy of a Ships anchor (!) of about 3kg ...

Either can have shackled on about 3m of 8mm chain and then one of those webbing anchor reels ....

I have been completely amazed at how well those two have held even when moderate / strong wind. The little Ships anchor - I use that on my mobo as well ... its a the darnedest beaut ever ...

 

[robertager1962]

Many thanks and really I would only ever use the

And yes, the LAST thing you want to do with a drop keel is raise the keel to anchor, UNLESS you also raise the rudder, which you cannot. The center of lateral resistance moves aft and she will yaw all over the place. This is true of all centerboard boats.

And yes, the LAST thing you want to do with a drop keel is raise the keel to anchor, UNLESS you also raise the rudder, which you cannot. The center of lateral resistance moves aft and she will yaw all over the place. This is true of all centerboard boats.

Hi thanks for this. The Southerly 105 can lift her rudder and in very shallow tidal waters I always lift the rudder if there is any chance of touching the bottom.

 

[robertager1962]

Thanks everyone for your kind advice.
Lots of food for thought here and I will mull it all over. I have been given a reel of webbing warp for the stern anchor, which I intend to fit and use when we get to the Rias in Spring. I would imagine that we will have plenty of opportunity to play with different configurations over the summer prior to getting to the Med.