Just curious:
What makes a plastic tank easier 'to fit' than one made out of stainless steel?
Both are rigid, no? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Or am I missing something?
The plastic tanks, Some of which I think are rotationally moulded have some give and do not have sharp corners.
Not so sure about the more rigid custom made ones however.
I have had to repair a GRP hull after someone had forced a stainless tank into a very slightly too small space.
Plastic tanks don't corode either. Stainless tanks will go eventually, pinholes in the weld seems the commonest failure mode, though mine were 30 years old before they gave any trouble.
have replaced the glassed in water tanks with stainless, and yes the sharp corners are a pain, even plumbing angle fittings once welded are not adjustable so yes I have been struggling but one thing i have sorted out is how to secure them in the lockers.useing eye bolts and ratchet straps works very well. But just wondering what people prefer cause it seems a lot of work just to store some fresh water. Oh and what is peoples thoughts on inspection ports are they
needed?
Ok. Makes sense, although I would hate to fit into a hull something that needed to be forced to the extent that corners of it do damage to the hull.
Thanks Iain!
I've got a bladder type, I like it because it's easy to remove and give it a good clean, also the guage is simple, lift locker lid, if tank flat need some water.
Go for the 'off the shelf' plastic type from either Plastimo, TekTanks or Vetus. But you must be able to get them in the space available. That have rounded corners, you can see the level of water; Plastimo do a mechanical level guage that sits on the top, also they will have an inspection hatch for cleaning etc. Can also be fitted with cheap ratchet strap encircling the tank for fixing. Make a plywood mockup if unsure it will go in.
If unable to fit a rigid one, go for the bladder type, but must sit on a smooth surface with no possibility for chafe or dsmsge from sharp edges.
I have the (S/S) tanks the boat was built with, and I think they were hung up on a coathanger so the boat could be built around them. I did try to get one out when it leaked but having seen how the cockpit sole is supported I'm not sure it is possible, or even desirable, so I resorted to various gunks to stop the leak. If I was fitting them myself, I would go for plastic (not GRP) for longevity, I reckon it's main problem is UV degradation and the bilges don't see that much sunlight! I would also make sure that they were fitted as late as possible, so I could be sure of getting them out again, and if possible I'd go for 2 or more tanks (we have 2 x 20 gallons).
You can get off-the-shelf tanks from Vetus, which I have , or custon-made ones as recommended by others. These materials are very durable and do not affect the flavour.
I have Stainless tanks, and with a large inspection hatch in each...... they are very easy to clean..... mine have small tabs welded on, which are then bolted through to various solid mounting points....... can't however see why a plastic tank wouldn't be just as simple and effective.....
Mine same as yours - s/s, no inspection hatches, as the chap who made then said "more trouble than they are worth" with three baffles in each tank that would have been 4 hatches.
In use for 10 years now and no problem with the water so far.
Dont know if they NEED to be cleaned, but, having a 10" diameter access hole in either tank ensures thats I can easily see the whole interior without any trouble, and its amazing how much 'solid' matter is deposited in there when you fill the tanks.... looks like limescale...... mind you, the water tastes just fine, and i've never cleaned the tanks on a boat before...... perhaps its better just not knowing!
At least tanks on the boat don't suffer from dead pigeons which is more than can be said for what can happen in your loft at home. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif