Stabilizers for Blue Angel, engineering question

hard coring where the flanges sit, and soft coring around it
Aha, I didn't understand that from your previous post, sounds more logical.
Though at the end of the day it might be easier/safer just go for solid grp anyhow, considering the small surfaces involved...
 
Aha, I didn't understand that from your previous post, sounds more logical.
Though at the end of the day it might be easier/safer just go for solid grp anyhow, considering the small surfaces involved...

your post just crossed my previous post with pics (on the previous page)
 
here are the pics from the positions in the boat
Blimey B, looking at those pics I still can't believe the hull thickness measures which you took.
I'm looking forward to see the plug of the hole which they will cut for the fin shaft...
 
Blimey B, looking at those pics I still can't believe the hull thickness measures which you took.
I'm looking forward to see the plug of the hole which they will cut for the fin shaft...

at least in the corner between bottom and side wall, the vertical part must be at least 50mm thick in some area's, looking at some differences between inside and outside surface, ...

drilling a hole in the spot where the drives will come is the first thing to do when she's out of the water.
 
Blimey B, looking at those pics I still can't believe the hull thickness measures which you took.
I'm looking forward to see the plug of the hole which they will cut for the fin shaft...

do you know perhaps,
when dismantling the cabin floor, we discovered that the floor was completely water tight fitted against the boat hull sides,
the seams were filled everywhere with GRP

so that if fe condensation drops, or leaks from the windows, running down along the GRP wall, remain on top of the ply floor,
not leaking through the gaps in to the bilge,
you can see that this is intentionally cared for,
to make that gap water tight

is there are reason for that ?

should we try to repair this in the area where the drives sit ?
 
is there are reason for that ?
TBH, I can't think of any logical one. Sound/vibrations absorption, possibly?
That aside, I actually see more reasons for NOT have such sealing: I'd rather have water which for any reason is spilled on the wooden floor going down in the bilge, than potentially sitting around wooden surfaces, which eventually could rot.

PS: on second thought, do you really have a choice, anyway?
I would think that after the stabs will be installed, those floor panels will have to be easily removable anyway, for inspection and maintenance...
 
Last edited:
TBH, I can't think of any logical one. Sound/vibrations absorption, possibly?
That aside, I actually see more reasons for NOT have such sealing: I'd rather have water which for any reason is spilled on the wooden floor going down in the bilge, than potentially sitting around wooden surfaces, which eventually could rot.

+1000

V.
 
TBH, I can't think of any logical one. Sound/vibrations absorption, possibly?
That aside, I actually see more reasons for NOT have such sealing: I'd rather have water which for any reason is spilled on the wooden floor going down in the bilge, than potentially sitting around wooden surfaces, which eventually could rot.

yes that was also my idea, and the reason for my question,
but because its all so intentionally sealed, there must be a reason for this,
and its all behind cupboards, so it can't be just for esthetic only.

I have to asc my Canados connection .

It will virtually be impossible to remake this around the stabs,
because like you say the floor has to remain removeable,
and a big part of the drives is above the floor level.
 
yes that was also my idea, and the reason for my question,
but because its all so intentionally sealed, there must be a reason for this,
and its all behind cupboards, so it can't be just for esthetic only.

I have to asc my Canados connection .

It will virtually be impossible to remake this around the stabs,
because like you say the floor has to remain removeable,
and a big part of the drives is above the floor level.

You should be able to seal off the stabs housings from the rest of the hull surely? This might be useful in the event of the stabs rod seals weeping through the hull?
 
You should be able to seal off the stabs housings from the rest of the hull surely? This might be useful in the event of the stabs rod seals weeping through the hull?

Raf,
all CMC systems I've seen so far were in a sealed housing,
but there are builders who don't seal stab drives, (Jfm's fe) and its no requirement for the MCA coding, so I'm not going to do that right now.
I might consider to build a box around the drive later,
but not yet sure if I want to sacrifice cupboard space for that.
 
Don't you need to let the heat dissipate from the stab drive? Therefore boxing in the drive would make this more problematic perhaps.
 
Last edited:
all CMC systems I've seen so far were in a sealed housing
B, what's your impression on the w/tight compartments which I guess you've seen on some SL boat?

As I said previously, preventing a boat from sinking upon a catastrophic failure of one fin shaft is not trivial, and I've yet to see any planing boat built in a way which could realistically avoid that. One Sunseeker which I've seen recently, with ABT stabs enclosed in a w/t compartment, made me laugh out loud at the idea that such enclosure should have withstood the effects of a shaft torn apart.
Bottom line, I wouldn't bother trying to build a w/tight enclosure in BA.

Whether you will want/need some sort of noise absorption enclosure, for usage while anchored at night, that's a different story of course.
But CMC motors are supposed to be much more quiet than the hydraulic actuators, so maybe it's worth trying them first, and eventually do something afterwards...?
 
Don't you need to let the heat dissipate form the stab drive? Therefore boxing in the drive would make this more problematic perhaps.
Well, the fact that as B said these things are normally installed in sealed housings (useless as it might be to prevent a flooding, imho), if nothing else goes to prove that this is not a problem, I reckon... :)
 
Don't you need to let the heat dissipate from the stab drive? Therefore boxing in the drive would make this more problematic perhaps.

yes as MapisM say's, most units are boxed,
these boxes have quite some air volume, and have some cooling from the water streaming along the hull,
this topic has been discussed in this thread thorrowly,
and CMC assured me that this is absolutely NO issue !
 
Whether you will want/need some sort of noise absorption enclosure, for usage while anchored at night, that's a different story of course.
But CMC motors are supposed to be much more quiet than the hydraulic actuators, so maybe it's worth trying them first, and eventually do something afterwards...?

this is one (ao) big advantages of the electric drives, they make almost NO noise.
more noise will come from: the waves touching the boat, and from the genny's.
in the factory (unloaded) setup the prevailing wisling noise came from an angular encoder on the schaft.
but I will ofcourse report about that after trials
 
Hi Bart,

More surveyors are cottoning onto the fact that any vessel over 12m loa (coded or otherwise) should have an IMO approved horn (complete with its specific certificate). If you don't have one and the surveyor picks it up, Toby can ship you one asap. Sometimes, the surveyor will accept an email from Toby to the effect that one has been despatched with a copy of the certificate attached, so it doesn't hold up the certification process.
 
Top