jrudge
Well-Known Member
I bought my s58 in April 2017 and did a small refurb on buying it, a much more major one in April 2018 and this enter tackled the last remaining big bit which was the saloon.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?498388-Squadron-58-Refurb
The saloon “ fabric “ ( more like Vinyl snake skin type stuff) was ok a few years ago but not great. This continued to deteriorate getting more saggy and more sticky. Nice !
I bought alcantara for the headlining and fabric for the walls. The only other thing you need is about 20 cans of high temp spray glue, thousands of staples, a large supply of Stanley knife blades and a bit of ingenuity as to how to take the thing to bits!
It took me 8 days plus 2 and a half days of day workers so call it 11 man days.
If you budget about 3-4 hours per panel I reckon that is about right. It may sound a lot but you have to remove it, strip it, clean it, cover it ( and put in lots of staples!) and then re install. Some are of course simple. Some are complex to remove and install and complex to trim.
I did the ceilings first ( confidence building - relatively regular shaped panels I didn’t need help with.
I bought a combination of foam backed and non foam backed alcantara. If applying direct to the grp I used the non foam stuff. This is the same as fairline did when they built it. Curved panels in the ceiling for example and round the hatch at the top of the second stairs. If foamed you would have nowhere for the edge to end.
The ceiling fabric was thicker than the old fairline stuff. It is actually difficulty to imagine what they put on could ever have been regarded as premium given the thing cost close on £800k in 2004 when new. The challenge then is that across the width of the boat you gain 3-4mm. May not sound a lot but the panels are a tight fit so the fabric needs to be tight wrapped round the panels so the issue is minimised. How tricky can putting up Velcro ceiling panels be ? Well the last one can be very tricky when you are 2mm out !
The saloon sides are about 4.5m long and look like they are in three bits. They are not ! It’s is all one piece so removing and getting put out is interesting and it has to be covered outside on trestles ( well an empty beer keg borrowed from boats.co.uk ) as inside is a non starter.
For those that might want to remove them (and I assume something similar applies to most Fairlines of this vintage you ...
- Remove the upper long panel triangular panel
- Under that there is a triangular piece of wood. Remove the screws
- Remove the joining bars. Under the rear most one are several screws
- At the front of the panels in the area of the upper blinds window ledge there are 2 screws. Remove them ( this is critical as you can’t see them and they have black covers on a black background. I had no idea what is holding it in )
- Remove various other obvious bits that are keeping it from coming out
These large panels have to be trimmed on both sides as you can see them through the window to some extent.
They use a lot of fabric and 3 cans of glue a side.
I was let down by a day worker so thanks to forum member cloud9 for acting as an extra pair of arms!
Given the removal of the sides also revealed the blinds it was a simple task to replace the Venetians which had seen better days with nice electric pleated blinds.
Ocean air wanted £6500 for them which came down to about £4500 ish with discount. The domestic product which i use at home ...£1650. The only difference is guide wires to stop them flapping.
I removed the guide wires from the old blinds drilled 2 holes and job done. The blinds are “waffles” so there is clear space down the middle so you don’t see the wires.
They are supplied with rechargeable batteries which in a house last 18 months so probably 2 seasons on a boat. I just wired them all to the boats 12v system but batteries would work just as well as long as you have access to recharge them.
I had already installed led lights some time ago but took the opportunity to positioning them facing down adjacent to the blinds which lights the blind nicely, is not visible from outside and means you can remove the side panels without removing the leds - not that I am in a hurry to remove them again.
That just left the 2 curtain pelmets. These were baffling! Fortunately Ed Engle who used to work for Fairline was in town and set me on the right track.
For the benefit of others.
- remove curtain tracks
- A thin panel will then come out ( mine was stuck by sticky fabric )
- You then remove some screws that hold the pelmet box in. A good measure of brute force will then remove it - again stuck by the old fabric
- The smaller pelmet on the port side is glued. First remove the curtain rail, and the small panel below. You then remove a few obvious screws and then pull the port most side down and keep pulling. Eventually it will come out breaking some wood supports in the process. This is a quick repair once it is out. There is no way to avoid this as there is no access behind it.
Under the curtain pelmet is also the last of the ceiling panels. It is 2m long on one side and 3m on the other so it is very tricky to handle and work on. The large curtain pelmets are likewise cumbersome. 2.5m long and curved and need to be trimmed on both sides.
I also previously installed led behind the curtain rail so put that back and job done.
It looks great but the main impact is if you can remember what is looked like before !
Most of the work is simple and just takes time and patience. Some is very slow and tricky ( mostly anything associated with the curtain pelmets or physical size ).
The material cost including glue etc was about £1200 - £800 of which was the alcantara for the roof panels and another £300 on day labour. The blinds were £1650 on top so some £3300 ish all in.
Before - looks ok in this pic - it wasn't!
New head lining with old blinds in the background
And new walls and blinds
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?498388-Squadron-58-Refurb
The saloon “ fabric “ ( more like Vinyl snake skin type stuff) was ok a few years ago but not great. This continued to deteriorate getting more saggy and more sticky. Nice !
I bought alcantara for the headlining and fabric for the walls. The only other thing you need is about 20 cans of high temp spray glue, thousands of staples, a large supply of Stanley knife blades and a bit of ingenuity as to how to take the thing to bits!
It took me 8 days plus 2 and a half days of day workers so call it 11 man days.
If you budget about 3-4 hours per panel I reckon that is about right. It may sound a lot but you have to remove it, strip it, clean it, cover it ( and put in lots of staples!) and then re install. Some are of course simple. Some are complex to remove and install and complex to trim.
I did the ceilings first ( confidence building - relatively regular shaped panels I didn’t need help with.
I bought a combination of foam backed and non foam backed alcantara. If applying direct to the grp I used the non foam stuff. This is the same as fairline did when they built it. Curved panels in the ceiling for example and round the hatch at the top of the second stairs. If foamed you would have nowhere for the edge to end.
The ceiling fabric was thicker than the old fairline stuff. It is actually difficulty to imagine what they put on could ever have been regarded as premium given the thing cost close on £800k in 2004 when new. The challenge then is that across the width of the boat you gain 3-4mm. May not sound a lot but the panels are a tight fit so the fabric needs to be tight wrapped round the panels so the issue is minimised. How tricky can putting up Velcro ceiling panels be ? Well the last one can be very tricky when you are 2mm out !
The saloon sides are about 4.5m long and look like they are in three bits. They are not ! It’s is all one piece so removing and getting put out is interesting and it has to be covered outside on trestles ( well an empty beer keg borrowed from boats.co.uk ) as inside is a non starter.
For those that might want to remove them (and I assume something similar applies to most Fairlines of this vintage you ...
- Remove the upper long panel triangular panel
- Under that there is a triangular piece of wood. Remove the screws
- Remove the joining bars. Under the rear most one are several screws
- At the front of the panels in the area of the upper blinds window ledge there are 2 screws. Remove them ( this is critical as you can’t see them and they have black covers on a black background. I had no idea what is holding it in )
- Remove various other obvious bits that are keeping it from coming out
These large panels have to be trimmed on both sides as you can see them through the window to some extent.
They use a lot of fabric and 3 cans of glue a side.
I was let down by a day worker so thanks to forum member cloud9 for acting as an extra pair of arms!
Given the removal of the sides also revealed the blinds it was a simple task to replace the Venetians which had seen better days with nice electric pleated blinds.
Ocean air wanted £6500 for them which came down to about £4500 ish with discount. The domestic product which i use at home ...£1650. The only difference is guide wires to stop them flapping.
I removed the guide wires from the old blinds drilled 2 holes and job done. The blinds are “waffles” so there is clear space down the middle so you don’t see the wires.
They are supplied with rechargeable batteries which in a house last 18 months so probably 2 seasons on a boat. I just wired them all to the boats 12v system but batteries would work just as well as long as you have access to recharge them.
I had already installed led lights some time ago but took the opportunity to positioning them facing down adjacent to the blinds which lights the blind nicely, is not visible from outside and means you can remove the side panels without removing the leds - not that I am in a hurry to remove them again.
That just left the 2 curtain pelmets. These were baffling! Fortunately Ed Engle who used to work for Fairline was in town and set me on the right track.
For the benefit of others.
- remove curtain tracks
- A thin panel will then come out ( mine was stuck by sticky fabric )
- You then remove some screws that hold the pelmet box in. A good measure of brute force will then remove it - again stuck by the old fabric
- The smaller pelmet on the port side is glued. First remove the curtain rail, and the small panel below. You then remove a few obvious screws and then pull the port most side down and keep pulling. Eventually it will come out breaking some wood supports in the process. This is a quick repair once it is out. There is no way to avoid this as there is no access behind it.
Under the curtain pelmet is also the last of the ceiling panels. It is 2m long on one side and 3m on the other so it is very tricky to handle and work on. The large curtain pelmets are likewise cumbersome. 2.5m long and curved and need to be trimmed on both sides.
I also previously installed led behind the curtain rail so put that back and job done.
It looks great but the main impact is if you can remember what is looked like before !
Most of the work is simple and just takes time and patience. Some is very slow and tricky ( mostly anything associated with the curtain pelmets or physical size ).
The material cost including glue etc was about £1200 - £800 of which was the alcantara for the roof panels and another £300 on day labour. The blinds were £1650 on top so some £3300 ish all in.
Before - looks ok in this pic - it wasn't!
New head lining with old blinds in the background
And new walls and blinds
)
