Spartachori - what's the deal?

[Cardo]

So it would appear Spartachori and I are going to have to have a hate-hate relationship.

We've popped back with some relatives who are with us for the weekend. This time we've come over relatively early, and when aiming for the "Free Port" town quay at the north end of the harbour, we got flagged down by a chap on the quay. He asked if we had a reservation, I said "no" and pointed to the "Free Port" sign, which happened to be by the spot I was aiming for, to which he replied "Use your anchor". Spiteful to the extreme. As we were getting ready to moor up, Dinghy-enabled-Greek flew up to us again. Once again, told us to go on the pontoon, and started pushing the stern of the boat around. (I really hate that, how dare he push my boat around? I told him to stop, quite forcefully and he buggered off, but not before turning us by 90º.) In the end we've relented and have moored up to the "Asteria Mooring" pontoon as directed. I would've just left, but relatives are quite keen to visit Spartachori.

So, once again, what's the deal with all this bollox "management"? Nobody's asked for any money for our mooring, and they won't be seeing a penny from me if they try.

Do Spartachori actively try to discourage people from visiting? They've certainly not been a bundle of laughs, so far.

 

[Chris_Robb]

So it would appear Spartachori and I are going to have to have a hate-hate relationship.

We've popped back with some relatives who are with us for the weekend. This time we've come over relatively early, and when aiming for the "Free Port" town quay at the north end of the harbour, we got flagged down by a chap on the quay. He asked if we had a reservation, I said "no" and pointed to the "Free Port" sign, which happened to be by the spot I was aiming for, to which he replied "Use your anchor". Spiteful to the extreme. As we were getting ready to moor up, Dinghy-enabled-Greek flew up to us again. Once again, told us to go on the pontoon, and started pushing the stern of the boat around. (I really hate that, how dare he push my boat around? I told him to stop, quite forcefully and he buggered off, but not before turning us by 90º.) In the end we've relented and have moored up to the "Asteria Mooring" pontoon as directed. I would've just left, but relatives are quite keen to visit Spartachori.

So, once again, what's the deal with all this bollox "management"? Nobody's asked for any money for our mooring, and they won't be seeing a penny from me if they try.

Do Spartachori actively try to discourage people from visiting? They've certainly not been a bundle of laughs, so far.

Cardo, its just a product of too much business. The guy at the northern end, Baba?? has always been overbearing even out of season. If you want to go to a nicer less touristy area with lots of islands and anchorages within a short sail - and no unsavoury characters as in Spartahori, then go to the Dodecanese. Leros has good facilities depending on whether you want haul out or Marina. Wait till the Italians arrive at 20:00 on 15th July!!!!! - enjoy!

The worst we have ever had in Greece is in Skiathos, where it appears to be a battle against all the competing boats and operators to even get on the Quay. It was just plain nasty. The waterman was rude (we hadn't done anything to annoy him) and refused to let us have water (€10 minimum charge) - eventually we found out why - after 10am no water - no pressure - well why could he not tell us. We agreed a time of 7.30am to fill - no show. We waited another day - a new time 8:00 am - no show. AVOID!

 

[jacaldo]

We've been into Spartachori many times, The quay at the south end is "run" by two Brothers from the taverna, one nice the other a miserable sod although he did help us out with two lines during the bad storm a few years back, the son is equally as miserable. The town quay has been impossible for us to get on because of bully boy tactics, someone is desperate to get you on his pontoon, this is the same pontoon that was emptied during the storms, where we watched boats in distress circling most of the night, I believe they where forcibly told to get off. Still, we love it there and very safe.

 

[Steve C Cronin]

Bavis rules, like I said! Before his mother died, he was even worse.

just go a little further east to Vathi. Much nicer people, berthing and tavernas.

 

[Cardo]

Bavis rules, like I said! Before his mother died, he was even worse.

just go a little further east to Vathi. Much nicer people, berthing and tavernas.

Vathi was last night's spot! Very pleasant it was, too.

So, I've been watching what's going on. It seems the guy who asked us if we had a reservation is from the taverna, as he keeps hopping on his moped and shooting around to where boats are approaching on the town quay.
It appears they usher people to the pontoon first, and then start filling up the town quay once that's full. All "managed" by the taverna and its minions.

As far as I can tell, the whole place is run by the family cartel. The local council really should get on top of this and put an end to all the bully boy tactics, but I'd imagine half the council members are probably more relatives.

Gotta love Greece.

 

[nickf]

Have been using the south quay "run" by Steve and Jerry for 30years. They lay/maintain the lazy lines and help boats in and out ensuring the lazy lines are pulled in tight and are not cut on leaving and also that arriving boats do not drop anchors on the mooring blocks which they frequently try to do - also they have planted and maintained the flowers vegetation. They also built a wooden pontoon/quayside before the current stone/concrete one was built. In theory there is no obligation to use the restaurant but I invariably do because it is good and a magnificent setting. If I do not use it I have a couple of beers and explain that I will eat with them later in the season and have never had a problem. Steve is more austere, and can be curt at times than Jerry, but both are extremely helpful and knowledgeable about local weather conditions. I have lost count of the times they have warned me about impending storms before it was obvious on forecasts.
There is a problem when flotillas go into any of these taverna/quaysides particularly in high season and I will try and avoid on those days - but they tend to be on set days of the week (Sailing holidays tend to use Steve and Jerry and Sunsail Babis) - On a Sunday Spartahori tends to be flotilla free as change round day for the British ones.
I personally have found it pays dividends to go and have a beer at any taverna owner who has helped me in.

 

[Cardo]

Have been using the south quay "run" by Steve and Jerry for 30years. They lay/maintain the lazy lines and help boats in and out ensuring the lazy lines are pulled in tight and are not cut on leaving and also that arriving boats do not drop anchors on the mooring blocks which they frequently try to do - also they have planted and maintained the flowers vegetation. They also built a wooden pontoon/quayside before the current stone/concrete one was built. In theory there is no obligation to use the restaurant but I invariably do because it is good and a magnificent setting. If I do not use it I have a couple of beers and explain that I will eat with them later in the season and have never had a problem. Steve is more austere, and can be curt at times than Jerry, but both are extremely helpful and knowledgeable about local weather conditions. I have lost count of the times they have warned me about impending storms before it was obvious on forecasts.
There is a problem when flotillas go into any of these taverna/quaysides particularly in high season and I will try and avoid on those days - but they tend to be on set days of the week (Sailing holidays tend to use Steve and Jerry and Sunsail Babis) - On a Sunday Spartahori tends to be flotilla free as change round day for the British ones.
I personally have found it pays dividends to go and have a beer at any taverna owner who has helped me in.

I find a bit of politeness goes a long way. The chap from the southern taverna was just _rude_. No two ways about it. Had he explained he'd rather we left to make space for others, we would have. But I guess he's not allowed to do that. Still, you catch more flies with honey, or however it goes.

 

[Cardo]

Ahh, I think I've worked out the difference between mooring you up to the quay and the pontoon. If you have a reservation, they stick you on the quay. You're already going to the taverna, after all. If you don't have a reservation, they stick you on the pontoon right by the taverna, so you feel obliged to go there.

Sneaky.

 

[Chris_Robb]

Ahh, I think I've worked out the difference between mooring you up to the quay and the pontoon. If you have a reservation, they stick you on the quay. You're already going to the taverna, after all. If you don't have a reservation, they stick you on the pontoon right by the taverna, so you feel obliged to go there.

Sneaky.

They do own manage and repair the pontoon, so its only fair if you use it to eat their. However the concrete is not theirs. They have muscled in by installling their own lazy lines. To use your own anchor is fraught with problems as snagging their ground chains will mean a diver as it is far too deep to freedive. Guess who the diver will be!

 

[Cardo]

They do own manage and repair the pontoon, so its only fair if you use it to eat their. However the concrete is not theirs. They have muscled in by installling their own lazy lines. To use your own anchor is fraught with problems as snagging their ground chains will mean a diver as it is far too deep to freedive. Guess who the diver will be!

And that's how they ensure they get the business. They only allow those who already have a reservation at the restaurant to moor up on the public quay, whilst those that haven't made a reservation get plonked on the pontoon.

 

[Cardo]

Guess who the diver will be!

Next time we do a trip like this, I'm bringing my own scuba gear!

 

[Steve C Cronin]

Ahh, I think I've worked out the difference between mooring you up to the quay and the pontoon. If you have a reservation, they stick you on the quay. You're already going to the taverna, after all. If you don't have a reservation, they stick you on the pontoon right by the taverna, so you feel obliged to go there.

Sneaky.

It's their backyard and has been or generations, winter and summer. YOU are a tourist and should accept the role of milch cow. THAT is how μπαμπης sees it. If you don't like it, keep away like we do now. It isn't as if it is that attractive a place, after all and there are plenty of other places very close at hand.

 

[Cardo]

It's their backyard and has been or generations, winter and summer. YOU are a tourist and should accept the role of milch cow. THAT is how μπαμπης sees it. If you don't like it, keep away like we do now. It isn't as if it is that attractive a place, after all and there are plenty of other places very close at hand.

If it weren't for relatives joining us for a couple of days, we wouldn't have come back. However, it looks like their tactics will work out as we will be going there for dinner. Making the most of the "free" power and water, though.

We won't be heading back here once we leave, though. Much nicer and less bullying places around.

 

[Moodyjim]

We have tried both tavernas on many occasions but now settle for Spillia Taverna (Steve & Jerry's at the end of the bay to the south) where we have always been very well treated and the taverna atmosphere is much nicer than Babis's place which we find somewhat stark and a bit of a rip off. The son at Spillia doesn't smile a lot but always shakes hands and is very polite and helpful. The old boy (another George) who acts as marinero has a real problem with his knee and is often in pain and last time in (June) there was another chap doing marinero duties while George was serving. I have bought George the odd beer and he has always been really helpful, especially of the weather gets up and extra lines etc. are required. Never had any problem!

 

[jimbaerselman]

For me, the whole point of visiting Spilia has been the climb to Spatahori for a wander around the old village, still stuck in a time warp. Babis taverna up top is a delightful change from the highly commercial activities below.

 

[Cardo]

I have to say, I was a little disappointed with Spartachori village. I was expecting... more. With all the fuss down in the bay, I was expecting it to be a not-to-be-missed spot, but to be honest, it was just a small, reasonably traditional village. A dime a dozen. It did have a decent view, though.

Four of us ate at the taverna (more like a cantina?) and it came to €60 with starters, mains and a round of drinks. I think the price was pretty decent, considering we'd also got "free" mooring with water and electric for the night. The service at the taverna was "ish". We were served very quickly to begin with, but that was it. Mrs's order was wrong, and then they'd run out of what she wanted. And God forbid you would want a second round of drinks! We noticed most people just had their meal then went back to drink on their respective boats.

Personally, I don't think the place is worth the hassle. Both George at the southern end and Babis (I think?) at the northern end are perfectly friendly, as long as you're a good tourist and do exactly as you're told and splash the cash. As soon as you want to exercise your right to do as you'd like, as per the "free", council built harbour, they get very grumpy with you.

Plenty other, nicer places to visit, in my opinion.

 

[alexsailor]

Agree with you. Meganissi and Lefkas region is overcrowded...

 

[daveg45]

Ahh, I think I've worked out the difference between mooring you up to the quay and the pontoon. If you have a reservation, they stick you on the quay. You're already going to the taverna, after all. If you don't have a reservation, they stick you on the pontoon right by the taverna, so you feel obliged to go there.

Sneaky.

The town quay is more protected from the afternoon breeze than the pontoons which can be almost impossible to walk on at times. I was told by the taverna owner (Babis?) that in future if I ring ahead he would reserve a place on the town quay which is a better place to be. On his own pontoon he provides electric and water free if charge. In the quay I believe you pay the water man. He provides decent showers and washing machines at his taverna which are very clean. Barring personalities of a couple of family members I find the place to be very well run and reasonable food at a reasonable price and it is clear he is prepared to invest money to improve facilities. There is always plenty of choice. The place is what it is and if you chose to sail to a tourist honeypot what do you expect? The Ionian is a zoo of a place full to bursting with flotillas. How the likes of Babis keep a smile on their face is beyond me. Just imagine dealing with that mayhem of floating caravaners day after day! I guess they just think of the money, which to be fair they work very hard for. You can always anchor at the head of the bay or walk to sportachori from on of the other anchorages. The likes of Babis don't spoil the place. It is trashed by sailing holidays, sunsail, Neilson, and the like.. not to mention the liveaboard gypsy types that camp out for weeks on end. Even in the 'quiet anchorages' around Meganisi it is like tying back on a town quay! Make sure you inoculations are upto date before you go swinging! The place was bad busy enough in May when we passed through. It must me a living hell now! My advise would be sail the Peloponnese and if you are not scared of sailing in 20 knots of wind try the Aegean

 

[Cardo]

My advise would be sail the Peloponnese and if you are not scared of sailing in 20 knots of wind try the Aegean

That's where we're now headed. Down the Peleponnese and back up through the Corinth.

Overall, I do very much like the Ionian. I don't mind the busy-ness of it, as there's always quiet places to go if you want peace and quiet.

We were in Kalamos a couple of nights ago. George helped us moor up, told us about the taverna and then left us to it. No pushiness involved. Whilst we didn't have the budget for dinner, we did go and have a drink there.
€2.80 for a large beer, compared to Babis's €4 for the same, I know where I'll be going back to.

 

[Steve C Cronin]

That's where we're now headed. Down the Peleponnese and back up through the Corinth.

Overall, I do very much like the Ionian. I don't mind the busy-ness of it, as there's always quiet places to go if you want peace and quiet.

We were in Kalamos a couple of nights ago. George helped us moor up, told us about the taverna and then left us to it. No pushiness involved. Whilst we didn't have the budget for dinner, we did go and have a drink there.
€2.80 for a large beer, compared to Babis's €4 for the same, I know where I'll be going back to.

Call in at Andikirron on your way back if you can get a berth. The one tucked in behind the lighthouse is the best and you can get power in it. Some excellent tavernas there. However, you will need to like the military lifestyle as the nearby officers' college sounds reveille every morning at six thirty! All the street litter bins seem to be ex- Gedling B.C. (Nottinghamshire, UK) green wheelie bins - curious!



Totally agree with your view on Spartachori, Spiglia & Babis in #36.