Spartachori - what's the deal?

Cardo

Active member
Joined
3 Oct 2005
Messages
4,231
Location
In a plastic tub!
www.yacht-tinkerbell.co.uk
We arrived in Spartachori yesterday and moored up on the quay near Taverna Spilia. We went in the spot the chap waved us into. The plan was to spend a couple of nights here, but we've just had the chap come over and ask if we're leaving today. I said we're leaving tomorrow, and he gave me an unhappy look, saying the quay will be busy later.
Why this is a problem for us, I don't know. I asked him if us staying was a problem, and he just muttered under his breath and walked away.

So, what's the deal? Are we out of order staying more than one night?
 

Cspirit

Active member
Joined
6 Feb 2004
Messages
373
Visit site
As I understand it, the quay is owned/managed by Spillia. The convention of course is that you eat at the taverna. Perhaps he is expecting a flotilla. I wouldn't worry. Just enjoy and eat
 

Cardo

Active member
Joined
3 Oct 2005
Messages
4,231
Location
In a plastic tub!
www.yacht-tinkerbell.co.uk
As I understand it, the quay is owned/managed by Spillia. The convention of course is that you eat at the taverna. Perhaps he is expecting a flotilla. I wouldn't worry. Just enjoy and eat

We didn't eat there last night, maybe that's why he wants us to sod off? Sadly, his attitude doesn't particularly encourage me to go there tonight, either.

I appreciate the convention is to eat at a taverna if you moor up at a small quay directly outside and clearly run by them. However, this quay is massive, and is partly taken up by fishing boats. It also seems there's electric/water points that are manned by a council chap? Also, we were initially going to anchor, but decided to moor up when chummy was waving us over.
As for a flotilla, well, that's his problem, he doesn't need to give us attitude.
 

Borden

New member
Joined
22 Jan 2007
Messages
216
Location
London UK
Visit site
Cardo
The reason he was waving at you to encourage you too moor up instead of anchoring was that he wanted you to eat at his place. That's what they do. See this clip on You Tube of George the self appointed harbour master on Kalamos (not far from where you are) he also happens to be the owner of the nearest taverna. We moored, we chatted to him, we ate his excellent food and all was sweetness and light.
http://youtu.be/--CwyRYrPtI
 

Cardo

Active member
Joined
3 Oct 2005
Messages
4,231
Location
In a plastic tub!
www.yacht-tinkerbell.co.uk
Cardo
The reason he was waving at you to encourage you too moor up instead of anchoring was that he wanted you to eat at his place. That's what they do. See this clip on You Tube of George the self appointed harbour master on Kalamos (not far from where you are) he also happens to be the owner of the nearest taverna. We moored, we chatted to him, we ate his excellent food and all was sweetness and light.
http://youtu.be/--CwyRYrPtI

Oh, I have no issues with that. And I gather it's a similar system here. But it still doesn't justify rudeness. If it's their quay and they want us to leave, they should say so. But I somehow doubt it is their quay, they're just self-appointed harbour masters with no real power.

It would appear a SH flotilla will be turning up today as a lead boat's recently arrived. Though they'll struggle anyway, there's loads of private/bareboat charter boats already here.

As for the taverna, all they've managed is to lose a potential client.
 

SarahJ

Member
Joined
1 Sep 2010
Messages
59
Visit site
Hi. Much prefer the other taverna at head of bay with lovely food and great taverna owner. Pretty sure you can stay more than one night there. It's quieter too. Man comes round to sell water as well. Bows to or stern to on lazy lines.

Love Kalamos as well, and Kasto too....happy days.
 

OldBawley

Active member
Joined
9 Aug 2010
Messages
984
Location
Cruising Med
Visit site
Some spots on the Poros South town quay are vigorously defended by taverna owners. They want only big catamarans with at least 12 fat hungry and thirsty guys on board to moore there. Understandable they don´t want a small yacht with just one old bloke on it to occupy the place.
It is a convention you better follow. Not all Greeks are polite.

The same happens in some of the Turkish bays. The people having the concession to run a restaurant in that bay see the bay as their property.
It is not, even the pontoon they build is never their property.
I have witnessed a proper small war between a restaurant managing family and two liveaboard sailing yachts. One of them helped building the restaurant more than 30 years back.
After municipal elections the concession sometimes changes family, so drastic reducing the gratitude for the help with building.
We used that bay in winter also when real bad weather was predicted and even then I never used the restaurant mooring or pontoon.

In Turkey we ware even send away by the coastguard while we ware anchoring in front of a fancy villa. I guess our classic did not fit in with the grp gin palace that had a permanent mooring there.
Turkey is all about connections, Greece is a lot more civilised.
 
Last edited:

jordanbasset

Well-known member
Joined
31 Dec 2007
Messages
34,741
Location
UK, sometimes Greece and Spain
Visit site
When we wee there a couple of yeas ago same thing happened. Do not know how true it was but was also told by another live aboard that they do not own or have right to the quay, but try and give the impression they do.
We did eat there one lunchtime, seemed to be a lot more choice than in the evening.
 

Cardo

Active member
Joined
3 Oct 2005
Messages
4,231
Location
In a plastic tub!
www.yacht-tinkerbell.co.uk
When we wee there a couple of yeas ago same thing happened. Do not know how true it was but was also told by another live aboard that they do not own or have right to the quay, but try and give the impression they do.
We did eat there one lunchtime, seemed to be a lot more choice than in the evening.

I get the impression they don't have any authority over the quay, they just pretend to.

Anyhoo, we've now left. After passive-aggressive rude Greek man once again walked past us, grumbling quite loudly to himself, but clearly in my direction, I asked him whether he'd like us to leave. He just carried on grumbling, throwing in "full" every now and then and carried on walking. Unbelievably rude.
As we were getting ready to leave, with the engine running, he once again walked past. I told him we were leaving, and he made a little cheer. I made it quite clear we would never be returning. Pity, too, because it's a nice spot. But if that's the way they're going to treat potential customers, then they deserve to go bankrupt. Apparently, money is "no problem!".

My advice? Stay well away from that restaurant.

So off we went, towards the town quay proper that had a fair few spaces available, only to be approached by a fast dinghy enabled Greek chap who promptly informed us the quay was "full". When I looked over at all the empty spots, he said a flotilla was coming. He then advised us to go on the pontoon for the other restaurant. At this point, we'd had enough of Spartachori so we got out of there and have ended up anchoring in one of the very picturesque bays a few minutes travel eastwards.

Greece is amazing, just a pity about the Greeks!
 

sailaboutvic

Well-known member
Joined
26 Jan 2004
Messages
9,983
Location
Northern Europe
Visit site
It seems to be , he don't own the quay , the town people have been trying for years now to put a stop to him given that impression .not having any legal clam to it is one reason he didn't Demanded you left . The harbour is deep and the place where we all use to anchor once he has put swimmer buoys to stop people anchoring , last few time we been there we gone stern on to the out wall , if you do go there , you will get a better meal up the top of the hill in the villages .
I wouldn't eat at any Taverna that hog any quay , as a rule quays belong to the town , but it seen more and more Taverna in Greece are trying to claim it belongs to them .

Www.bluewatersailorcroatia.webs.com
 
Last edited:

affinite

Well-known member
Joined
2 Feb 2005
Messages
1,239
Location
Eastern Med
Visit site
I get the impression they don't have any authority over the quay, they just pretend to.

Anyhoo, we've now left. After passive-aggressive rude Greek man once again walked past us, grumbling quite loudly to himself, but clearly in my direction, I asked him whether he'd like us to leave. He just carried on grumbling, throwing in "full" every now and then and carried on walking. Unbelievably rude.
As we were getting ready to leave, with the engine running, he once again walked past. I told him we were leaving, and he made a little cheer. I made it quite clear we would never be returning. Pity, too, because it's a nice spot. But if that's the way they're going to treat potential customers, then they deserve to go bankrupt. Apparently, money is "no problem!".

My advice? Stay well away from that restaurant.

So off we went, towards the town quay proper that had a fair few spaces available, only to be approached by a fast dinghy enabled Greek chap who promptly informed us the quay was "full". When I looked over at all the empty spots, he said a flotilla was coming. He then advised us to go on the pontoon for the other restaurant. At this point, we'd had enough of Spartachori so we got out of there and have ended up anchoring in one of the very picturesque bays a few minutes travel eastwards.

Greece is amazing, just a pity about the Greeks!

When we were in the Ionian we made an effort to always visit Babis's taverna on western side of the bay. He was always very welcoming and always found us a spot on his quay or (if a blow was forcast or the swell got up) the "town" quay round the corner. I think its his brother in the speedboat touting for business. Sounds like times and maybe attitudes have changed - great shame
 

jimbaerselman

New member
Joined
18 Apr 2006
Messages
4,433
Location
Greece in Summer, Southampton in Winter
www.jimbsail.info
It seems to be , he don't own the quay , the town people have been trying for years now to put a stop to him given that impression .not having any legal clam to it is one reason he didn't Demanded you left . The harbour is deep and the place where we all use to anchor once he has put swimmer buoys to stop people anchoring , last few time we been there we gone stern on to the out wall , if you do go there , you will get a better meal up the top of the hill in the villages .
I wouldn't eat at any Taverna that hog any quay , as a rule quays belong to the town , but it seen more and more Taverna in Greece are trying to claim it belongs to them .

Www.bluewatersailorcroatia.webs.com

+ 1

The quays below Spatahori are owned by the Dimos - local council - as in many Greek harbours., except for one pontoon which was provided b a taverna. In Greek maritime law, everyone has right of access to any empty facilities - and that includes the taverna pontoon.

If mooring lines are provided, the owners of the lines or pontoons may have the right to charge for them, and advise you where to park. More often than not they do not have that right, since having that right means you have to declare incomes, offer receipts and pay Dimos rents. So, instead, there's a perceived social pressure for a quid pro quo: "If you use the stuff I've put in, please use my taverna, and everyone is better off with no tax take"

Some local fishermen who've used a patch of quay for years will be highly defensive of their patch. It is, however, very unlikely that they have any rights to that spot. Use it at your peril; it's amazing the rates which warps chafe in some circumstances!
 

Cardo

Active member
Joined
3 Oct 2005
Messages
4,231
Location
In a plastic tub!
www.yacht-tinkerbell.co.uk
+ 1

The quays below Spatahori are owned by the Dimos - local council - as in many Greek harbours., except for one pontoon which was provided b a taverna. In Greek maritime law, everyone has right of access to any empty facilities - and that includes the taverna pontoon.

If mooring lines are provided, the owners of the lines or pontoons may have the right to charge for them, and advise you where to park. More often than not they do not have that right, since having that right means you have to declare incomes, offer receipts and pay Dimos rents. So, instead, there's a perceived social pressure for a quid pro quo: "If you use the stuff I've put in, please use my taverna, and everyone is better off with no tax take"

Some local fishermen who've used a patch of quay for years will be highly defensive of their patch. It is, however, very unlikely that they have any rights to that spot. Use it at your peril; it's amazing the rates which warps chafe in some circumstances!

Had I been a spiteful man, I may have considered ensuring the lazy line we had been using would no longer be of use. However, life is too short for such childish retribution. I did, however, make it clear to the chap, reasonably loudly, that we weren't happy. No swearing, just showing my dissatisfaction. Plenty of British boats around us that will have heard. If nothing else, it'll make them wonder what had happened.

As for Spartachori, we have relatives joining us in a couple of days, and we've decided we'll be heading back there. The harbour, to be honest, is very pretty, and we never got a chance to visit the town. However, we'll be going on either the town quay or the pontoon on the north-west taverna.
 

Chris_Robb

Well-known member
Joined
15 Jun 2001
Messages
8,060
Location
Haslemere/ Leros
Visit site
Oh, I have no issues with that. And I gather it's a similar system here. But it still doesn't justify rudeness. If it's their quay and they want us to leave, they should say so. But I somehow doubt it is their quay, they're just self-appointed harbour masters with no real power.

It would appear a SH flotilla will be turning up today as a lead boat's recently arrived. Though they'll struggle anyway, there's loads of private/bareboat charter boats already here.

As for the taverna, all they've managed is to lose a potential client.

No change then in him. He was always a bad tempered sod. We had a lot of trouble with him a few years back (1995) when he abducted a 15 year old from a sailing holidays charter boat for purposes unknown...

I dont like him - I have always ignored him and moored up, and eaten at the Pizzeria on the hill - great. Its not his quay, he has just taken it over. Even better in settled weather to go to his cousins at the south end and moor there, Much nicer atmosphere all round.
 

Cardo

Active member
Joined
3 Oct 2005
Messages
4,231
Location
In a plastic tub!
www.yacht-tinkerbell.co.uk
The thing I don't think I've mentioned about the initial incident, which most grinds on me, is that he didn't seem to be giving grief to the two slightly bigger boats not far from us. I guess they were seen as better potential customers, seeing as our Tinkerbell is smaller, older and a little tatty looking.
Pity for him, looks can be deceiving.
 

Cardo

Active member
Joined
3 Oct 2005
Messages
4,231
Location
In a plastic tub!
www.yacht-tinkerbell.co.uk
I dont like him - I have always ignored him and moored up, and eaten at the Pizzeria on the hill - great. Its not his quay, he has just taken it over. Even better in settled weather to go to his cousins at the south end and moor there, Much nicer atmosphere all round.

The problems we had were with the chap at the southern end of the harbour?
 
Joined
23 Jul 2012
Messages
4,878
Visit site
Bavis runs "Porto Spiglia" and don't you EVER doubt it!

He will tell you of the fate of various suppliers in the port, if you ask>

"Man whom advertises Diesel deliveries" - "He Died!"

"Butcher who advertises meat deliveries" - "He Died"

etc!

Wonderful spot though!
 
Last edited:
Top