Solar for dummies

That's ridiculously cheap if it's as advertised. I've ordered one anyway for my boat and, at £17.99, it won't be too much of a loss if it's naff.

Finished fitting it on the boat today and it seems to work as advertised. I'll connect when we leave for 8 weeks and see what the battery is like when we return but, right now, it seems like a proper bargain for what I want.
 
Finished fitting it on the boat today and it seems to work as advertised. I'll connect when we leave for 8 weeks and see what the battery is like when we return but, right now, it seems like a proper bargain for what I want.

Left mine for a week and found the battery perfectly charged at 14.0 volts... just ordered another one for the other battery...

20220521_140854_compress0.jpg
 
Like many, on a trot mooring with no shore-power, I want reliable charging to maximum charge whilst I’m away from the boat and some contribution to the fridge whilst in board but not sailing when I want to stow the panel.
I’ve just ordered an Acupower 50W foldable - about 14” X 11” folded, 54” X 14” extended.
I plan to clip it to the coach roof with detachable cables to its 5 A single battery controller permanently wired to the domestic battery with a 10A fuse in the +ve wire. £170 incl delivery.
The starter battery can look after itself.
I’ll let you all know how it goes once installed.
 
Left mine for a week and found the battery perfectly charged at 14.0 volts... just ordered another one for the other battery...

If left charging for extended periods, 14.0V is way too high IMHO.
Most controllers would float the battery, when fully charged, at a lower voltage, something like 13.2 - 13.4V.
 
General advice is, you need a regulator for anything over 5w panel as the power they generate will eventually fry the battery. They're widely available off eBay for £10 - £15 and easy to connect up. Connect battery first and solar panel last.
 
On STAKKR, I've got 2 X 20W panels wired into a controller, which is wired into the battery. This is repeated on the 2nd battery.
At the marina, I've set 2 panels facing SE into the morning sun, and the other 2 SW into the afternoon sun; 1 panel from each direction, to ensure that both batteries gets the same exposure through the day.
The batteries are isolated from each other, and all equipment, with the exception of 'their' automatic bilge pumps, which are separately wired to each battery.
On the very frequent 'dull & dark' days up here in the Highlands, the battery volts are never below 12.7VDC, or on the less frequent long sunny days, greater than 13.1VDC.
Whether the batteries really 'need' a controller? I don't know, but I feel better knowing that they 'have' one!
Thanks - seems to working well! What do you set the upper limit of the controller to? I think its default is about 14.5 which I took down to 14.0... but someone's told me that's the charging current rather than the floating charge...? Someone else warned me that I might be frying my batteries leaving the controller charging at 14...
Bearing in mind that I'll be leaving the boat for up to three weeks at a time...
Thanks!
 
Thanks - seems to working well! What do you set the upper limit of the controller to? I think its default is about 14.5 which I took down to 14.0... but someone's told me that's the charging current rather than the floating charge...? Someone else warned me that I might be frying my batteries leaving the controller charging at 14...
Bearing in mind that I'll be leaving the boat for up to three weeks at a time...
Thanks!
Yes Crisp 14.0 is probably too high but check the specs for your battery. You can probably find them online somewhere. I have a huge 218Ah AGM that requires 13.5V to 13.8V float and 14.7 bulk so not all batteries are the same.
EDIT to add: Bob's looking very smart!!
 
Finished fitting it on the boat today and it seems to work as advertised. I'll connect when we leave for 8 weeks and see what the battery is like when we return but, right now, it seems like a proper bargain for what I want.
Did you put a multi meter on it and measure volts and or amps when connected?
 
Thanks - seems to working well! What do you set the upper limit of the controller to? I think its default is about 14.5 which I took down to 14.0... but someone's told me that's the charging current rather than the floating charge...? Someone else warned me that I might be frying my batteries leaving the controller charging at 14...
Bearing in mind that I'll be leaving the boat for up to three weeks at a time...
Thanks!
Just installed 2 X 50W foldable panels for my 12v system with an Epever 1210 AN controller (could have used 1206 AN but no matter). Interpreting the Chinglish instructions is a bit of an art, but they have float at 13.7v, boost at 14.4v and equalise at 14.6v for a sealed battery. The charge cycle cuts in again to top up when the battery falls to 13.2v. Most batteries don’t start to take a charge under 13+v. Once the battery is fully charged, the controller stops it being overcharged - err, that’s the point of a controller. So I think you’ve set yours too low. But read the detailed instructions which come with it, it’ll be in there somewhere. Why do you need to change the factory settings? Well, maybe you want to eliminate Equalisation charging, depending what type of battery you have. Also, call up your battery manufacturer and ask them.
 
PS my upper limit outside cut off is 16v, for when the battery is damaged/shorting etc. but otherwise cuts off at 15v.
 
I found the same "100w" panel elsewhere with a lot of reviewers saying no way is it 100w...
I reckon most of these cheaper ones quote the theoretical maximum power output, plus sometimes quite a lot to round it up to a good figure. The actual output I have found is in the region 20 - 30% of the figure quoted even in full sunshine, until you get up to the reputable suppliers who quote more realistc figures. The angle of the panel to the sun makes a fair difference to the output.
 
Top