Snaggy split pins - better options?

[sawduster]

I was up the rig recently and decided to take off all of the various bits of tape that had been put on over the years to cover sharp things. I'm wondering if there are better solutions than the split pins on the clevis pins for the shroud to mast attachment points.

As I understand it my options are below. I'm overthinking it because it's a dark winter night and I'm bored - any other suggestions?

• Shorten the clevis pins so the pins stick out less obviously - will be a faff to measure and find the right size
• Use split rings of the multiple rounds variety (safety rings?) - less jabby but could be pulled out if caught in the weave of a halyard
• Use cotter rings - same as split rings
• Use R pins - not secure enough
• Use linchpins - not secure enough
• Continue to use split pins but make them a bit shorter, file the ends round then cover the ends with something
  • Electrical tape - cheap but dries out
  • Rigging tape - expensive but doesn't dry out
  • Self amalgamating tape - no obvious downsides
  • Heatshrink - An option I just thought of but haven't seen before

 

[Poignard]

First and last.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

You can use Velcro pins on rigging turnbuckles, not sure if they are made small enough for your case, 2mm OD is the smallest quoted, see link below. I have been using these on my rigging for years now, they last well and don't appear to get zapped by UV. The Velcro does bind up tight, if not pulled off from time to time, but that is good.

Blue Wave Velcro Smart Pin

 

[penberth3]

Legs folded back 180 degrees reduces any projection.

 

[Neeves]

As I understand it my options are below. I'm overthinking it because it's a dark winter night and I'm bored - any other suggestions?

Start an anchor thread, they ramble on for weeks and sometimes can be both entertaining and (debatable) educational.


One reason to use cotter pins, as in your picture, is that they are relatively easy to remove. Penberth3's pictured pins (and your rings, like a key ring) would be more difficult to remove.

It might be unlikely and one would not wish it on anyone but you only need to lose your mast to realise how difficult cotter pin removal can be.

'R' pins, which don't protrude much, in the location for your photo would be secure, especially if you gave each a squirt of silicone.

In pondering your thread I don't think there is one single answer - it depends on the location. For cotter pins flush with, say, the mast simply overcoated with silicone, which is applied so that it adheres to the mast and envelops the cotter pin is still accessible (if you need to remove the pin) but the pin is normally buried. When we took possession of our yacht I spent time doing just this and the silicone lasted for over 20 years.

Jonathan

 

[Refueler]

I like split rings ...

Bending the legs back round the pin is fine until you want to remove the pin ... then its new split pins when you refit.

I know some people are against split rings - but I have never had any failure with them ... plus they are re-usable until day they get distorted ...

 

[Daydream believer]

Rigging wire. Through the hole, perhaps more than once. Then a quick twist, snip short & tuck the twist in to the fitting.
It is an option but I would still prefer split pins

 

[Boathook]

I've had R pins and split rings both come of so I prefer split pins. Those clevis pins do look a bit long but if shorter ones are used it will / may be difficult to get a 'pin' through.

If you have removed tape that has been there for years I would just replace it and each time you go up the mast take a roll of tape with you to repair / replace bits as required.

 

[Poignard]

Deleted

 

[Stemar]

I can't help wondering just how much of a problem this really is. What's the likelihood of a line getting anywhere near those split pins?

 

[john_morris_uk]

I’ve always understood that MUCH shorter split pins and only split 45 degrees is the best method. Tape up any that might catch on sails/cordage. If you tape bottle screws leave a gap under the tape for drainage.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

I was up the rig recently and decided to take off all of the various bits of tape that had been put on over the years to cover sharp things. I'm wondering if there are better solutions than the split pins on the clevis pins for the shroud to mast attachment points.

As I understand it my options are below. I'm overthinking it because it's a dark winter night and I'm bored - any other suggestions?

• Shorten the clevis pins so the pins stick out less obviously - will be a faff to measure and find the right size
• Use split rings of the multiple rounds variety (safety rings?) - less jabby but could be pulled out if caught in the weave of a halyard
• Use cotter rings - same as split rings
• Use R pins - not secure enough
• Use linchpins - not secure enough
• Continue to use split pins but make them a bit shorter, file the ends round then cover the ends with something
  • Electrical tape - cheap but dries out
  • Rigging tape - expensive but doesn't dry out
  • Self amalgamating tape - no obvious downsides
  • Heatshrink - An option I just thought of but haven't seen before

View attachment 186881

These are far too long, correct length should be used and should be folded back round the clevis pin. That is to my mind a sloppy job

 

[DinghyMan]

These are far too long, correct length should be used and should be folded back round the clevis pin. That is to my mind a sloppy job

Looks like both the cotter pins and split pins are both too long

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Looks like both the cotter pins and split pins are both too long

Much!

 

[doug748]

Use bolts/screws with nylock nuts. I have used this on all my rigging turnbuckles for the last 20 years.

Having said that, on that spreader root I would probably stick to the split pin, fully turned back.

.

 

[LittleSister]

I loathe split pins. I know they are good in terms of security, but have received numerous gashes to hands and legs etc. from them over the years, They can scratch ropes and canvas, too. They are a faff to get out, especially if you bend both legs of the pin fully back, and are sometimes impossible to get back in to re-use because of deformation. (No matter how many spares you have, mysteriously these are always too large and too small for the immediate task, too!)

I like split rings once they're on, and think the chances of them being pulled off by lines is vanishingly small. They can be fiddly to get on, and they can ping off over the side or into hiding when you're getting them on or off.

Most often I end up using monel seizing wire, which also ends up with a jagged end that can cause gashes, but unlike split pins at least you can attempt to bend this to face inwards to some degree (I bend this end inside the turnbuckle slots when they have them), and is easier to remove when required than split pins..

I have on occasion used plastic cable ties (with the spare end cut off) as a temporary measure. This is handy and neat. I have felt that this is somehow not 'proper', but logically it seems very secure, and provided the ties are not left on so long that they are weakened by UV and pollution (e.g. replaced annually?), I'm not sure why they might be 'sub-optimal'.

 

[penberth3]

I like split rings ...

Bending the legs back round the pin is fine until you want to remove the pin ... then its new split pins when you refit.

Which you should do anyway.

 

[LittleSister]

Which you should do anyway.

Why? Has anyone ever seen a re-used split pin break in use?

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Why? Has anyone ever seen a re-used split pin break in use?

Good working practice. As an apprentice I was always told never to reuse split pins. The very action of bending and straightening and bending, how many times? will weaken the pin.
Mind you having said that it depends on what you consider "Good Working Practice " and what your standards are.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Bending back and forth will cause metal fatigue in any metal especially stainless steel so yes, it is good practice to use new split pins each time they are replaced.

Think of bending a paperclip back and forth it will soon fracture