Small refit Merry Fisher 805

[jakew009]

The old loom in it’s new home



Finished wiring up the consumer unit once I got hold of a main switch


Had to mount it upside down so the door opened the right way


Started wiring up the autopilot.


Mounted some more plywood panels to try and find somewhere to put everything


Put the VHF and the actisense converters on a removable shelf that sits inside the top of the console.

One converter is N2K to NMEA0183 for the VHF and the other is N2K to RS232 for the computer.

It later occurred to me that I could have used the AIS as GPS source for the VHF but oh well.

The two devices are both branched off a single drop cable; unusual but perfectly valid.


Did a test cut of the new dashboard from some plywood before doing it out of acrylic.


Started working out what I needed for the N2K network.

I’ve got a mix of Raymarine SeatalkNG and M12 connectors. I just used up what I already had.

The network goes from wardrobe to dashboard to kitchen to rear cabin top to front cabin top.

I found this LTW range of N2K accessories on Mouser which are certified, really good quality and a lot cheaper than the branded versions of the same things.


These Phoenix Contact field installable connectors are nice, I used them to make some SeatalkNG / M12 adapters rather than pay RM crazy prices.


They just snap shut with no tools required.


Bought one of these to replace the old wired remote for the windlass. As a bonus it can control the thruster as well.

The green button at the top activates it and the red is a mushroom style emergency stop / off button.


Finished connectors


Then started installing it all in the boat. Maretron screen is old school but cool.


Got the computer and monitor up and running.


Fitted the radio (need to order a din converter plate).


Finally sold the old fridge on Facebook marketplace after what felt like dozens of time wasters.


Still need to tidy up the network wiring but it’s all alive


Fitted a DIN rail block in the cabin top to distribute power

 

[jakew009]

DIN rail block behind the dashboard. Still need to tidy up the wires. I’ve had to go slightly alfresco because there is so little space to work with.


Got the remote working


The wardrobe locker is nearly finished. Just need to tidy up the wires.


Victron kit all up and running. Thanks @PaulRainbow for the wiring diagram of the Victron cerbo to nmea2k cable, worked perfectly


There is a little switch panel at the back of the boat for less used accessories and the bilge pumps. The bilge pumps are monitored on the Maretron screen.

 

[Bouba]

In my Beneteau, to access all the equipment and wiring in the dashboard you must go through a removable ceiling panel in the bathroom. For the newer models the dashboard is on hinges and flips open to give really easy access.
If I was re making my dashboard....I would hinge it

 

[Pleinmont]

I like to think I'm fairly handy and will have a go at fixing/maintaining most things on my boat but I've never progressed beyond basic sparky level... I know my limits

I take my hat off to anyone who successfully fits out electrics/electronics like this... Esp. going in with a complete rewire and reinstall like you've done.
Impressive stuff.

 

[jakew009]

Been putting this job off for ages because it involved cutting a big old hole

Started by quickly cutting out a jig to follow with the multitool.


Then used the jig to chop out the correct shape.


Then got an orangutan to reach in and do up the nuts to hold it in.

 

[jakew009]

In today’s episode of not finishing your boat project…

Started poking around with the engine control panel to transplant it into a new piece of acrylic and delete the key switch



3D printed a thing to hold the remote control receiver thing for the windlass. It was designed to bolt onto a lorry or similar.





I think that will do



Then printed a DIN rail mount for the mini PC that will run the main navigation screen




Whilst I was waiting for that to print I drew up a graphic for the isolator panel


Then printed it


Spot the mistake


Printed again without outlines


Then the bracket had finished printing so assembled that together. I wanted the PC to be easily removable


Then wrapped the vinyl around the acrylic I cut earlier


That’ll do


Then did a test fit of the final dashboard


Ready for gluing

 

[jakew009]

Final test fit




Then prepped it for gluing


Painted all the joints with the Sikaflex primer I used on the windows. I printed it in ASA carbon fibre blend. No idea how well the sikaflex will stick…



Joints came out OK




Then test fitted some isolators

 

[jakew009]

In my Beneteau, to access all the equipment and wiring in the dashboard you must go through a removable ceiling panel in the bathroom. For the newer models the dashboard is on hinges and flips open to give really easy access.
If I was re making my dashboard....I would hinge it

I thought about that but it’s fairly easy just to unscrew it. the main problem in the 805 is that everything is tiny.

 

[jakew009]

I like to think I'm fairly handy and will have a go at fixing/maintaining most things on my boat but I've never progressed beyond basic sparky level... I know my limits

I take my hat off to anyone who successfully fits out electrics/electronics like this... Esp. going in with a complete rewire and reinstall like you've done.
Impressive stuff.

I’m certainly no expert, I’m sure some marine electricians would happily point out all the problems.

From experience it’s generally easier to rip and replace everything if you have a big upgrade planned, otherwise you will spend ages trying to “preserve” old wiring before eventually deciding just to rip it out anyway.

 

[Bouba]

One thing that can happen with pilot house boats is the windows can reflect off each other and be annoying….the ability to change the angle of the screen would be neat

 

[jakew009]

Following on from yesterdays excitement the glue had dried:



Not sure where I’d be without 3D printing


Had to pocket out behind the Carling switches because they can only handle a max 6mm thickness


Drilled a hole to let the DVI cable plug go through


Test fitted


Realised I can watch YouTube on here too, streaming the audio to the radio


Drilled holes to mount the screen to. The bolts are glued into the plastic and I will use nuts on the back. Then the whole thing can be pulled out if necessary.


Thought I better clean up some of the old sikaflex even though you won’t be able to see it


Another test fit, just need to pop all the switches in now.


Then thought I would cut out the replacement gunwhale planks (I think that’s what they are called).




Routed out a radius on the hand holds


Then started cutting out the engine instrument panel


Looks good


Doh out by 90 degrees


Attempt 2


Then cut it a third time this time out of black acrylic


CNC makes life easy


Test fit, really pleased with the somewhat retro look of this. I was going to delete all the gauges and replace them with a screen but I decided there’s something nice about analog gauges.

I’ve got them connected to an Alba Combi so I can see them on the chart plotter as well but more importantly can configure my own alarms.

 

[jakew009]

Then had to make the whole to fit it to slightly bigger


Duly made bigger


Then thought I would mount the navigation PC I made the DIN rail bracket for yesterday.

This PC will run TimeZero via the 15.6” touch screen on the helm. TimeZero is basically the same software that runs on a Furuno chart plotter but it costs a fraction of the price of a big plotter. It will integrate with my Furuno radar as well (yet to be fitted).

It can access everything on the NMEA2000 network via an Actisense NMEA converter via the serial port on the PC (I wanted to avoid a USB converter).

The PC runs off 12V and is intended to stay on 24/7 as it will also run some monitoring and record the cameras. The monitor will be switched off when not in use.



At the moment I’m using WiFi to connect it to the router but I need to run an Ethernet cable up to the top where the router is.


The boat has 2 main 12V electricity busses, one that is live 24/7 and one that is only live when the boat is in use. They are both fed by the main house battery isolator via 2 separate Victron Battery Protects.

There is a switch just inside the door as you come in that lets you enable the battery protect that switches off the non critical loads.

The critical loads will only switch off if the battery voltage gets critically low. The permanent loads are about 30W (Peplink router, Maretron DSM150, most of the N2K network, AIS, navigation PC, Cerbo, fridge, bilge pumps etc).

 

[simonfraser]

'The permanent loads are about 30W'

how are you keeping the batteries topped up ?

excellent tread

 

[jakew009]

'The permanent loads are about 30W'

how are you keeping the batteries topped up ?

excellent tread

2 x 200W solar panels on the roof

50A DC to DC charger when the engine is running.

And 560Ah of lithium batteries. So about 10 days of run time with no charge at all.

It will live on a swinging mooring so no hope of shore power

If it can’t keep up I will put another solar panel on the bow but I suspect it will be absolutely fine April through to October.

 

[jakew009]

I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects
I hate boat projects

Ok with that out the way I have made a little more progress but it’s been slow and I’ve not been taking as many photos as I should.

Finished the engine panel? This turned out to be a giant pain in the ass as I moved it from the right hand side to the middle - it turns out I didn’t check how much slack in the cable there was. Turns out almost none. Spent ages trying to work more through from the engine but it still wasn’t enough so I had to extend every bloody wire in the panel.

In better news though it’s hopefully also now all connected to the NMEA2000 network so I can setup alarms.

I binned off the original Volvo panel and cut this new one out. The Maretron DSM150 completes the somewhat retro look and will be useful for bilge monitoring.



Fitted a Fusion stereo, getting an idea of what it might look like if it’s ever finished.


Fitted some solar panels temporarily to test they work before sticking them down. 180W out of 400W panels on a cloudy day is acceptable.


Fitted some CCTV cameras, one looking out the back and one over the bow. Partially for security on the mooring but more because I want to see what the weathers like before driving down there.



They are quite small, managed to tuck this one up under the front cowl.


Lining it up


Then had an interlude to fit the heading sensor on the bathroom wall (you can just see it under the locked lid). Only place on the boat where it would be ~1m from metal and even then it’s a bit close to the toilet motor.

Had to run the nmea cable the long way round as no easy path through the bathroom from here.


The camera is quite impressive at night, be interesting to see what it’s like at sea. I think it’s the same type of sensor in those expensive marine night vision cameras except this one cost about 90 quid.


Then did some stitching. Turned the office loft into a temporary sewing shop. Had a mate help as patterning some of these was a pain in the ass.





Stupid shapes


Then these, they are actually done now just forgot to take pictures. The foam recovered remarkably well with steaming.





The angry sewing machine that’s either stalled or 1000 miles an hour


Just some curtains left to make, and maybe outside windscreen covers.

Finished installing the isolator plate finally.


Then spent like 2 days messing with the exhaust and fuel pipes. Forgot to take pictures but the exhaust is all replaced, the fuel pipes are all replaced, the fuel filter is replaced and the raw water intake is all rep ed.

The diesel tank filler was surprisingly still working but was an old fashioned resistor float thing so measured it up and replaced with a WEMA style one. Surprise surprise the hole was some oddball pattern. It we can adapt and overcome.


Thought that the water tank sensor the previous owner had installed was OK but on exception it was some shitty thing made of steel and with some weird 3 wire connection. And surprise surprise he had done a shitty job of fitting it. Ordered a WEMA replacement one for that tank as well (actually Osculati from Furneau Riddal as it was 1/4 the price).






Also done but no photos

- changed engine oil (10 quid little pump made that a dream until the pipe can out of the waste can)
- couldnt change filters as forgot to order them but now got them
- removed impeller
- remounted raw water strainer so it’s no longer wobbly

Also messed with the diesel night heater. Not very impressed with Autoterm UK, sell a kit advertised as “marine” and proceed to send steel jubilee clips and fuel pickup. All complete junk, ordered proper stuff from Mellor. Including a fuel cut off and sensible filter.

What’s left
- tidy up the last bits of wiring
- Do the vinyl wrapping
- fit the fuel tank once stuff arrives
- apply vinyls to boat and window surrounds
- mount radar somehow
- clean and polish boat
- fit anchor light
- change anodes
- flush engine with acid
- mount steering cylinder properly
- 8 million other small jibs
- put in water

 

[kondza]

I come to this thread every now and than just to admire the work and learn something more about MF805. This still remains the best source for this that I have found

How did you remove the old gunwhale planks? What type of wood did you use for new ones and how did you attach the new ones?
thx

 

[PaulRainbow]

Also messed with the diesel night heater. Not very impressed with Autoterm UK, sell a kit advertised as “marine” and proceed to send steel jubilee clips and fuel pickup. All complete junk, ordered proper stuff from Mellor. Including a fuel cut off and sensible filter.

Agree the clips are crap, but the heaters are very good.

 

[jakew009]

I come to this thread every now and than just to admire the work and learn something more about MF805. This still remains the best source for this that I have found

How did you remove the old gunwhale planks? What type of wood did you use for new ones and how did you attach the new ones?
thx

Thanks. I documented it as I thought it might come in useful to other people in the future, and hopefully ensure no one else undertakes such a stupid project

To take the planks off you basically just need to attack them with levers and cheese wire. They are just glued on but there are a couple of screws as well but they will snap / break off. You won’t be able to cheese wire through the screws obviously.

You won’t be able to take the screws out because they were put in before the hull and topside were glued together.

To put them back on I just glued mine with plenty of sikafkex 291i and didn’t bother with any mechanical fixings. The screws weren’t doing anything anyway.

I did fibreglass the screw holes up but you could just fill them with sika.

I made mine out of iroko. I have the file now so could easily cut out another set if you wanted some

 

[jakew009]

Agree the clips are crap, but the heaters are very good.

I agree the actual heater is good, I didn’t fancy a china one with zero quality control.

But the UK Autoterm dealer just seems like a parasite, marks the price of the heaters right up and bundles them with a load of crap accessories. If I was doing it again I’d buy just heater and controller off him and then buy fuel pickup, fuel shut off tap, proper fuel pipe, filter and marine exhaust / through hull of Mellor in Eberepacher / Webasto form as well as stainless clips etc.

Then just get the heater outlets and ducting off eBay. I also fitted the Eber style insulated ‘sock’ to try and retain some heat as it goes around the lazarette.

 

[njrs_123]

Evening Jake, hope the refit is going well? I’m really enjoying following your journey and as I mentioned previously, you have provided a wealth of information that continues to aid me with my own 805, and for that I am truly grateful. With that in mind, I was hoping I could pose another question and ask a couple of polite requests?

Firstly, I’m looking to order some Roca W12 Wiper Motors and wanted to check whether you fitted the 42mm or 68mm bulkhead version? Also, can I ask, did you fit Roca Pantograph Wiper Arms for 72 Spline Shaft (454mm-591mm), and if so, what size wiper blades did you fit? Were they 405mm?

Secondly, now that you have fitted the solar panels, would you be able to share some images and detail of how you attached them, location, connectivity etc?

Lastly, you had mentioned in an older post about the possibility of sharing a wiring diagram of your new installation. Is that still possible, given you clearly have a lot more knowledge than me and I’m really interested in learning more about what you fitted and how you wired things together. Of particular interest is the Victron equipment.

As always. appreciate all your help and thanks in advance.