Small refit Merry Fisher 805

[jakew009]

Hello Jake, I've never thought of vinyl wrapping small parts. Always dismissed wrapping in favour of spraying but for small parts this has given me ideas. I think we'd all appreciate it if you could give a brief run-down on the process. Or even better, a step-by-step with pics! You can get it published later!

I’m definitely not an expert at vinyl wrapping but I’ll see what I can do.

The “architectural” vinyl is very forgiving because it stretches miles

In terms of wrap versus spray, I think they both have benefits. the more complex the shape the more it favours spray rather than wrap. Wrap is good for big flat surfaces.

 

[jakew009]

The window frames were not wrapped. Jake epoxy primed them and painted them with 2K satin black paint

Actually I did wrap the front windscreen pillar as I couldn’t easily remove it to spray it. But yes the rest were painted with an epoxy primer and then 2k black gloss. I’m crossing my fingers it sticks.

 

[Pleinmont]

For the middle pillar of the windscreen I did actually vinyl wrap it.



You just need to use a decent “cast” black vinyl rather than a polymeric or monomeric. Cast vinyl will stay conformed to a shape whereas poly/mono always wants to return to being a flat sheet even after you heat it.

I actually used Oracal 751 but other brands are available
https://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/gloss-sign-vinyl/oracal-751-gloss-sign-vinyl-1260

Depending on your window frame shape, I see no reason why you couldn’t wrap the entire frame in situ as long as the substrate is reasonably good.

The trick is basically to try and fit it as best you can without heat stretching it to get rid of wrinkles. Then where it’s really hard to get rid of the wrinkles apply some heat to shrink it up and remove the wrinkles.

Then apply heat all over it evenly to help it ‘set’ as you say.

Be carefully not to trim it back before you have finished heating it, because it will shrink back from your original cut line.

You don’t have to do it in one piece, if you just overlap the joins by about an inch they are barely visible and it makes it’s much easier working with smaller pieces.

You need a decent scalpel for cutting it.

Nice one, thanks for the advice, I've not tried vinyl wrapping before but it looks like a good solution to spruce up surfaces.

PS - did you paint 2K satin black for the stripe on the windscreen glass or is that still the metal frame?
I have to reapply the silver strip to the bottom of my windscreen every other year as the paint peels off the glass (used Hammerite smooth in the past).
Not found anything that sticks to glass very well - maybe the epoxy primer and 2k might be much better.

 

[jakew009]

Nice one, thanks for the advice, I've not tried vinyl wrapping before but it looks like a good solution to spruce up surfaces.

PS - did you paint 2K satin black for the stripe on the windscreen glass or is that still the metal frame?
I have to reapply the silver strip to the bottom of my windscreen every other year as the paint peels off the glass (used Hammerite smooth in the past).
Not found anything that sticks to glass very well - maybe the epoxy primer and 2k might be much better.

There are some silvers on here: https://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/gloss-sign-vinyl/oracal-751-gloss-sign-vinyl-1260

I expect MDP supplies might be able to cut them into stripes for you, or failing that I could do it for you.

I would then apply it wet, squirt some fairy liquid / water mixture on the glass and 'float' the stripe into place. Then squeegee the water out.

A decent cast vinyl should last 10 years or so on glass.

 

[Pleinmont]

There are some silvers on here: https://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/gloss-sign-vinyl/oracal-751-gloss-sign-vinyl-1260

I expect MDP supplies might be able to cut them into stripes for you, or failing that I could do it for you.

I would then apply it wet, squirt some fairy liquid / water mixture on the glass and 'float' the stripe into place. Then squeegee the water out.

A decent cast vinyl should last 10 years or so on glass.

Thanks Jake, that's good to know and thanks for the offer of assistance

 

[Razmote]

Hello everyone,

I am in awe of the work done by jakew009.

Let me introduce myself: I live in Marseille and my MF805 is in the old port. When I bought it, it was eight years old and in good condition.
My English isn't very good, so I'll be using Deepl for translation.I've had an MF805 for 14 years. It's from 2003.

I've made a few small improvements and modifications, but nothing compared to what you've done.

I've a few questions...

 

[Bouba]

We are all in awe of Jake

 

[Razmote]

Jake, I have the same problem with my plexiglass as you do.

I came across your post while looking for ways to change the plexiglass.
I thought your work was fantastic and professional, so I read all 12 pages !

You tell people who want to do the same thing : Run away fast and far, but I don't really have a choice because my windows are very opaque.

You must have learned from your mistakes and you can surely improve the replacement procedure.
Could you make a short tutorial showing the step-by-step procedure ?
We already have all the photos of the process, but we're missing the method, for example, how to remove the aluminium parts or take out the windows, or where to buy the seals, how to remove the plastic handles on the sliding part, etc.

With these instructions, I'll see if I feel capable or not. I'm a DIYer, but nowhere near your level.

Thank you in advance.

Robert

 

[jakew009]

Had a bit of an interlude over the winter but it's meant to be going back in the water in a week or so

Did some cardboard aided design today for the radar bracket. Going to fold it up out of 3mm stainless.





Also did some testing of the radar, confirmed that it can talk to the windows 11 PC running timezero. All seemed to work fine

Went on a shopping spree the other day and ordered most of the stuff I need to finish it.

Ordered a dodgy chinese wind sensor, still need to decide how to convert it to n2k.


I also wanted a aluminium hulled dinghy to go on the back of the boat with snap davits. But I didn't like the prices that they were being sold for.

So decided to order this thing from Alibaba:

Gave them some instructions on how to make it look better:


And have asked them to put one of the clone Tohatsu 9.8hp two strokes in the box with it, should go like stink.



Whole lot was only about $1500 including shipping and duty / vat so how bad can it be...

I plan to get a little electric outboard as well.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Had a bit of an interlude over the winter but it's meant to be going back in the water in a week or so

Did some cardboard aided design today for the radar bracket. Going to fold it up out of 3mm stainless.

The MF805 rides bow high, you need to fit the radar so at rest it points down. If not, you'll miss a big area in front of the boat, as seen here.



Fitting it at the back also risks losing a sector too. Fitting at the front makes it easier to through bolt the bracket.

Also did some testing of the radar, confirmed that it can talk to the windows 11 PC running timezero. All seemed to work fine

Went on a shopping spree the other day and ordered most of the stuff I need to finish it.

Ordered a dodgy chinese wind sensor, still need to decide how to convert it to n2k.

Do you need N2K for a Windows PC, or can you use NMEA 0183 to USB ?

I'll be interested to see how well this works, might fit one to mine (i have 0183 input on my plotters.

I also wanted a aluminium hulled dinghy to go on the back of the boat with snap davits. But I didn't like the prices that they were being sold for.

So decided to order this thing from Alibaba:

Looks a bit like a Highfield clone.

 

[jakew009]

The MF805 rides bow high, you need to fit the radar so at rest it points down. If not, you'll miss a big area in front of the boat, as seen here.

View attachment 208172

Fitting it at the back also risks losing a sector too. Fitting at the front makes it easier to through bolt the bracket.

Do you need N2K for a Windows PC, or can you use NMEA 0183 to USB ?

I'll be interested to see how well this works, might fit one to mine (i have 0183 input on my plotters.


Looks a bit like a Highfield clone.

I’ve been contemplating the angle, I think I might just make it adjustable. What speed you cruise at also makes a big difference obviously.
I thought about having it at the front but I think it will look much more in proportion at the back, it already has a massive forehead

The wind sensor spits out NMEA0183 sentences over RS232. To make the wiring easier I’m going to connect it to an NMEA0183->NMEA2000 converter so I can just plug it into the network rather than having to run another cable all the way down to the helm.
The Windows pc actually has two native RS232 serial ports, but as said getting to them is a pain and I’d then have to get SignalK to rebroadcast the wind info onto the N2K network.
Will let you know how it works, the other options were a Calypso at about £500 or Maretron WSO200 for similar.

 

[Pleinmont]

Nice haul Jake.

Be interested to see how long your dinghy lasts... Prob same as the current crop of overpriced Euro brands that we are forced to buy as 'trusted'!

Manufacturers have clearly been skimming the materials over the last 10yrs.
The old blue and grey zodiac C240 that came with my boat never quite died but looked very tired after +10yrs service (prob 15) so I stupidly bought a new dinghy.
The dealer candidly said the newer far east Zodiac dinghies are rubbish vs the old French made ones despite being well over a grand.
With that in mind I just bought a £500 Talamex instead which then burst a seam last year age 3 (not overinflated btw)...
Can't win either way

Anyway good to see you're still tinkering and adapting in the run up to summer

 

[Alicatt]

We got a 270 inflatable floor dinghy last year, it is made by the same folk that make the Talamex ones and is identical in all except name, we got ours at Duncan's chandlers in Glasgow when they had a sale on.
With one adult and 2 kids in it I got it up to 8km/h with a 2hp Honda outboard, it is not bad to row either, did a 2km row along the canal with it.

 

[jakew009]

Drew the bracket up for the radar

Then ordered some stainless, will bend it up next week.




Also lots of other parts turned up. Amuses me how long it takes to order stuff, and how much stuff I still need event though I thought it was almost finished.

 

[jakew009]

More pratting around this weekend

The induction hob was flaky and the seller had sent me a replacement some time ago. Swapped it over today. Had to disassemble it to pull the cables through.



Swapped the anode on the bow thruster.


Think I had got my moneys worth on the old one


Got a new alternator as the current one doesn’t look too clever, but it arrived dented. Need to ask seller what they think


Emptied my bank account into the tank. The diesel transfer pump inside the lazarette that sucks direct into the tank is the best thing ever


Full


I filled the tank 20l at a time to get a calibration curve I could enter into the Cerbo


Fitted some bling LED strips under the side panels


Still need to finish wiring them up and have just ordered a 12v regulator but I think they look quite good


Then pulled the dash out


So I could get to the VHF radio and the NMEA converters behind it on this shelf


I originally fitted a nmea2k to serial converter, but it turns out that isn’t compatible with Furuno TimeZero. So had to replace it with the USB variant


Then had to pull up the floor for the umpteenth time to feed through the pipe for the windscreen washer jet.





The pump is in the dashboard but the tank that will hold the washer fluid will go in the bathroom cupboard


Used another wire to fish it down


Success. Forgot to bring the tank with me so that will have to wait for another day.



Ordered some new ‘quadport’ connectors for the water pump as the old one was worn and dripping


Fitted


But then I realised the pressure switch on the pump is dodgy so I think I will just order a new one

 

[jakew009]

TimeZero also now working perfectly with the Actisense usb converter