Single hand a Jeanneau 409/419?

I've just bought a new roller furled Genoa, which the sailmaker has marked with one black dot, two black dots and three black dots, which i assume are "reefing points".

Maybe an old fashioned guy with memories of No1, No2 etc hanked on head sails.
 
They did mention just a weekend is all that may be necessary prior to a day skipper (rather than the fill 5 day cc). I will be going down to see them in the next few weeks

Given your previous experience and future intentions it seems a waste of time and money.
 
Genuine question here from someone who's more of a racer.

We use main halyard tension and / or cunningham to move the mainsail's position of maximum draft around. It's an important part of sail trim and I personally wouldn't consider it a luxury / extra.

Is it still possible to adjust the luff tension on an in-mast furling sail?

I always find a Cunningham can help flatten an old stretched and baggy sail and it's one of the biggest bangs per buck where sail trim is concerned I reckon. I wouldn't be suicidal without one but I would certainly want it in any new sail if at all possible, even if I didn't have a handy downhaul at the time - that can be fitted later.
 
There's some useful stuff in Comp crew that doesn't get covered elsewhere, particularly using dinghy, including rowing it.

I appreciate that Larry, but based on the previous experience the OP mentioned in post #1, i'd have thought he'd know most of CC and be better to crack on with DS shorebased, which he can do online.
 
I've just bought a new roller furled Genoa, which the sailmaker has marked with one black dot, two black dots and three black dots, which i assume are "reefing points".

Simples. They are markings for reference / calibration purposes. In the same way you mark chain, so mark the sail so you know how much is furled/unfurled. Hence you can calibrate how much sail works best in a particular wind strength and direction. Like with chain, don't need to stick to exact marks.
 
Simples. They are markings for reference / calibration purposes. In the same way you mark chain, so mark the sail so you know how much is furled/unfurled. Hence you can calibrate how much sail works best in a particular wind strength and direction. Like with chain, don't need to stick to exact marks.

Thanks, that's about what i thought.
 
To the OP, and to get away from the repetition of roller main vs slab reefed arguments, if you opt for slab reefed, it is important to get a good reefing system if you want to do a lot of singlehanding.
Many boats are supplied with a single line reefing system, but that is is far from ideal. A system with separate lines for luff and leech works far better and gives a lot more control over the shape of the reefed sail. It does mean you have more string coming to the cockpit, but a good system of bags and some discipline will easily take care of that.
I regularly singlehand my 39-footer without bow thruster and with a treacherous cross current in my marina berth. There is no mystery, it is simply a matter of thinking through your maneuvres before you begin, and having a good autopilot.
 
To the OP, and to get away from the repetition of roller main vs slab reefed arguments, if you opt for slab reefed, it is important to get a good reefing system if you want to do a lot of singlehanding.
Many boats are supplied with a single line reefing system, but that is is far from ideal. A system with separate lines for luff and leech works far better and gives a lot more control over the shape of the reefed sail. It does mean you have more string coming to the cockpit, but a good system of bags and some discipline will easily take care of that.
I regularly singlehand my 39-footer without bow thruster and with a treacherous cross current in my marina berth. There is no mystery, it is simply a matter of thinking through your maneuvres before you begin, and having a good autopilot.

Only on the assumption your vessel is fitted with the ridiculous Selden type back to back blocks in the boom. As stated several times, it is perfectly possible to have single line reefing which works effectively as follows:

Reefing line tide off to reef eye on boom, up through reefing point cringle, back down to boom end sheave, through boom to tack end sheave, exit vertically up to block on luff reefing point back down to turning block on mast base, etc, etc, etc
 
Only on the assumption your vessel is fitted with the ridiculous Selden type back to back blocks in the boom. As stated several times, it is perfectly possible to have single line reefing which works effectively as follows:

Reefing line tide off to reef eye on boom, up through reefing point cringle, back down to boom end sheave, through boom to tack end sheave, exit vertically up to block on luff reefing point back down to turning block on mast base, etc, etc, etc

The latter is exactly what we have (for reefs 1 and 2) and works fine - usually do by hand, but if single handing a new 40 footer poss worth speccing the electric halyard winch if want the lazy option as backup.
Fitted front hook and thin single line dyneema for added reef 3 (essential on most boats)

Big recommendation for a stack-pack sail is to ensure the cover zip starts from the back of the boom and works forward - much easier to start the zip lower down/over less sail, and this will control the sail even if don't have time to zip fully forward. Top of sail stack at the mast tends to be a bit high for ease on 40 foot plus
 
Big recommendation for a stack-pack sail is to ensure the cover zip starts from the back of the boom and works forward - much easier to start the zip lower down/over less sail, and this will control the sail even if don't have time to zip fully forward. Top of sail stack at the mast tends to be a bit high for ease on 40 foot plus[/QUOTE]

+1
 
Just an update. After a visit to Southampton boat show yesterday and sleeping on things overnight I have now done a deal on a 2017 Jeanneau 389 for delivery in March. I decided to go with traditional slab main (all lines led back to cockpit) rather than in-mast, fin keel, single spade rudder, bow thruster, autopilot with wireless remote and will also be looking to retrofit (not an option from factory) a remote back to cockpit for the electric windlass. I also have an RYA instructor organised for own boat tuition and have signed up for day skipper theory. I know some of you think its madness, but sod it, you only live once ;)
 
Just an update. After a visit to Southampton boat show yesterday and sleeping on things overnight I have now done a deal on a 2017 Jeanneau 389 for delivery in March. I decided to go with traditional slab main (all lines led back to cockpit) rather than in-mast, fin keel, single spade rudder, bow thruster, autopilot with wireless remote and will also be looking to retrofit (not an option from factory) a remote back to cockpit for the electric windlass. I also have an RYA instructor organised for own boat tuition and have signed up for day skipper theory. I know some of you think its madness, but sod it, you only live once ;)

Pretty boat, enjoy it!
 
It's crazy jumping straight in with such a large boat.

I wish you well but I would not rush into anything.

Ho hum, so I must be crazy too. Our first sailing boat was (still is) a Bavaria 38, only a tad smaller than the ones under consideration. I'd done some sailing over the years but not much, did a dazed kipper course along with SWMBO (who'd never sailed at all) and set off for the Med. Yes, steep learning curve, especially doing Med mooring but there's no better way to learn than by doing it. That was seven years ago now, no disasters, no injuries buts lots of fun and new friends. As Tranona says, modern boats are easy to manage and are pretty forgiving.
 
No problem at all singlehanding once at sea, if you have a ram-type autopilot. Once sailing your only annoyance is the mainsheet on the coachroof, but stay forward of the wheel and bung on the autopilot for a few seconds to adjust the mainsheet, kicker etc. or tend genoa sheets.

The problems start whwn entering or leaving marina berths, the tighter the space the worse, and the windier the worse. Having gone from a heavy long-keeler to a modern Jeanneau (neither with bowthusters), I actually find more problems in tight manouevring with the newer boat, it blows sideways at low speeds so much faster.

I do think that a "ram-type autopilot" is very unfortunately named, particularly in the context of a novice with a large boat:)
 
Just an update. After a visit to Southampton boat show yesterday and sleeping on things overnight I have now done a deal on a 2017 Jeanneau 389 for delivery in March. I decided to go with traditional slab main (all lines led back to cockpit) rather than in-mast, fin keel, single spade rudder, bow thruster, autopilot with wireless remote and will also be looking to retrofit (not an option from factory) a remote back to cockpit for the electric windlass. I also have an RYA instructor organised for own boat tuition and have signed up for day skipper theory. I know some of you think its madness, but sod it, you only live once ;)

Well done! For your remote, suggest you get the sidepower one that operates both the windlass and the bow thruster. Also consider having the boat Coppercoated. If it is being delivered to the Hamble, Osmotech at Hamble Point can do both jobs. I had my new boat delivered there straight from the factory to do those two jobs before commissioning.
 
Just an update. After a visit to Southampton boat show yesterday and sleeping on things overnight I have now done a deal on a 2017 Jeanneau 389 for delivery in March. I decided to go with traditional slab main (all lines led back to cockpit) rather than in-mast, fin keel, single spade rudder, bow thruster, autopilot with wireless remote and will also be looking to retrofit (not an option from factory) a remote back to cockpit for the electric windlass. I also have an RYA instructor organised for own boat tuition and have signed up for day skipper theory. I know some of you think its madness, but sod it, you only live once ;)

While I wish you the best of luck with your new boat and applaud your attitude to training, I personally wouldn't start off with such a large and expensive boat.
 
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