Shore Power v Campervan/caravan Kits

[wooster]

Hello,

Since I retired a couple of years ago, I've been trying to learn all the maintenance stuff I used to get someone else to do when I had a bit more cash and less time. I have an ex-hire broads cruiser.

I'm currently looking at my electrics which have, to be polite, seen better days. Anyway, I was contemplating just starting from scratch and trying to make sense of the spaghetti mess along my bilges. The shore power is basic and doesn't meet my needs with only a couple of sockets badly placed. I am not an electrician so I thought I'd look to a kit which would be plug and play. I notice a lot of them for sale for campervans but few for boats. Is it possible to use a campervan one, maybe just taking some appropriate measure to waterproof it a bit more? Are the two interchangeable?

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Hello,

Since I retired a couple of years ago, I've been trying to learn all the maintenance stuff I used to get someone else to do when I had a bit more cash and less time. I have an ex-hire broads cruiser.

I'm currently looking at my electrics which have, to be polite, seen better days. Anyway, I was contemplating just starting from scratch and trying to make sense of the spaghetti mess along my bilges. The shore power is basic and doesn't meet my needs with only a couple of sockets badly placed. I am not an electrician so I thought I'd look to a kit which would be plug and play. I notice a lot of them for sale for campervans but few for boats. Is it possible to use a campervan one, maybe just taking some appropriate measure to waterproof it a bit more? Are the two interchangeable?

If you have similar to this:-
Find the best price on PriceCompare24.com
Then perfectly suitable. Has all the proper safety devices.

 

[Corribee Boy]

Some campervan systems work on using the vehicle chassis as a common return, which isn't always easy to convert to a fibreglass hull.

 

[wooster]

I see. I was looking at something like this
240v Plug & Play Electric Hook Up Conversion Kit - Alpha Batteries

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Some campervan systems work on using the vehicle chassis as a common return, which isn't always easy to convert to a fibreglass hull.

Totally unnecessary and confusing post. The supply lead is a stand alone item and is not depend on whether it is used on a boat, caravan or even in a garage or house. Sorry but as said your post could be confusing.

 

[Corribee Boy]

I don't agree, Alex - I was caught out by this carrying out a very simple job, but the components had to be re-wired to accomodate return wires. It's therefore a valid point to be borne in mind.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

I don't agree, Alex - I was caught out by this carrying out a very simple job, but the components had to be re-wired to accomodate return wires. It's therefore a valid point to be borne in mind.

Are you saying that that the lead I highlighted and all similar such items for sale in caravan and some chandlers don't, or may not, have a return(Neutral) lead?
They would then be unsuitable for use on any UK mains power outlet, Marina, Campsite, or domestic. The campervan or caravan internal wiring may be as you suggest but that is peculiar to these vehicles and nothing to do with the lead or the OP's requirements. I am not saying you are incorrect in what you say, just thought it adds confusion for someone who, by his own admission is not electrically minded.
Apologies to the OP for high jacking his post

 

[vyv_cox]

The problem I see with the kit is that the cable is always attached to the boat, assuming you mount the sockets somewhere permanently. It needs a 16 amp socket on the boat and a plug to match on the cable so everything can be stowed away when sailing.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

The problem I see with the kit is that the cable is always attached to the boat, assuming you mount the sockets somewhere permanently. It needs a 16 amp socket on the boat and a plug to match on the cable so everything can be stowed away when sailing.

No! If you want to go down that route, it needs a 16 PLUG on the boat and a 16 amp SOCKET on the boat end cable. Assuming you mean he should disconnect the cable from the plug unit of the "Caravan" unit and wire in an extra piece of cable with a plug as above.
Or do you mean that he should have an additional cable between the shore supply socket and the cable on his "Caravan" unit? If so the arrangement will be as above with the plug on the shore end and the socket on the boat end.
More confusion!! The OP asked a simple question. " Would a Caravan/Campervan lead be suitable for use on his boat" The answer is that if it has the required safety features such as the one I indicated, there are various options available. Then yes it will be suitable.
Perhaps the OP should just consult a local electrical professional before he ends up with a serious accident following, or trying to follow our advice

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

I see. I was looking at something like this
240v Plug & Play Electric Hook Up Conversion Kit - Alpha Batteries

Yes that would work if fitted inside. Must admit I missed this post Referring to the other post from Vics I would fit the plug somewhere sheltered and use a standard shore connection cable , with a 16 amp socket on the boat end,
Think I may have misunderstood Vics post. Apologies if so.

 

[vyv_cox]

Yes that would work if fitted inside. Must admit I missed this post Referring to the other post from Vics I would fit the plug somewhere sheltered and use a standard shore connection cable , with a 16 amp socket on the boat end,
Think I may have misunderstood Vics post. Apologies if so.

Only terminology as to what is a plug and socket. The male part fixed on the boat, the female on the end of the cable.

 

[Tranona]

Really not difficult to do it yourself using one of these screwfix.com/p/british-general-fortress-5-module-2-way-populated-garage-consumer-unit/453VF?tc=GT7&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpO3a_ejEiAMV4jYIBR2p-STjEAQYASABEgJQYfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds widely available from all electrical and DIY sources this is just one example. Permanent 16A socket on the boat, again many types available and standard shorepower cable. this gives you 2 circuits, typically one for a mains charger and the other for sockets with space to add a third perhaps for an immersion in a calorifier. advisable to earth to the water, probably using an existing anode connection. Total cost of bits around £100 and a day's work. worth also adding a galvanic isolator, particularly if moored in a marina. another £80 or so.

 

[vyv_cox]

Really not difficult to do it yourself using one of these screwfix.com/p/british-general-fortress-5-module-2-way-populated-garage-consumer-unit/453VF?tc=GT7&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpO3a_ejEiAMV4jYIBR2p-STjEAQYASABEgJQYfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds widely available from all electrical and DIY sources this is just one example. Permanent 16A socket on the boat, again many types available and standard shorepower cable. this gives you 2 circuits, typically one for a mains charger and the other for sockets with space to add a third perhaps for an immersion in a calorifier. advisable to earth to the water, probably using an existing anode connection. Total cost of bits around £100 and a day's work.

Pretty much exactly what I have.

 

[NormanS]

Only terminology as to what is a plug and socket. The male part fixed on the boat, the female on the end of the cable.

I would think that most of us know which is a plug, and which is a socket. What you suggested was wrong.

 

[Sandy]

Some campervan systems work on using the vehicle chassis as a common return, which isn't always easy to convert to a fibreglass hull.

I think the OP is talking about AC not DC.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Really not difficult to do it yourself using one of these screwfix.com/p/british-general-fortress-5-module-2-way-populated-garage-consumer-unit/453VF?tc=GT7&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpO3a_ejEiAMV4jYIBR2p-STjEAQYASABEgJQYfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds widely available from all electrical and DIY sources this is just one example. Permanent 16A socket on the boat, again many types available and standard shorepower cable. this gives you 2 circuits, typically one for a mains charger and the other for sockets with space to add a third perhaps for an immersion in a calorifier. advisable to earth to the water, probably using an existing anode connection. Total cost of bits around £100 and a day's work. worth also adding a galvanic isolator, particularly if moored in a marina. another £80 or so.

Only worth fitting (actually, essential) if the shore power Earth is connected to the boats galvanic circuit/anode.

 

[webcraft]

I would think that most of us know which is a plug, and which is a socket. What you suggested was wrong.

So you think Vyv Cox is wrong?

HIlarious.

 

[wooster]

All right. Thanks. Quite a lot of stuff there and bearing in mind I know little can I just make sure I've got it right? It seems that I can put just about any campervan kit in the boat as long as I'm not leaving it unprotected from water by placement and using appropriate connections.

I intend to buy an external plug - to take my shorepower cable socket running from the marina mains - and then use a Distribution Panel with circuit breakers and add a galvanic isolator as we are in the marina for long periods. As long as i stick within component limits, I assume I can add a few outlet sockets in the cabins.

I might also add a new inverter or not as I hardly ever use the one I have.

Does all this seem right?

 

[wooster]

Aargh! I pressed the button before I finished. I was about to add that the whole issue of galvanic isolation ( which is something - I believe - the purpose of which is to prevent nastiness happening when your battery and mains get joined up ) brings up another can of worms for me. I'm not really sure how these two interface. For example when I put my cabin lights on and am connected to mains shore power, are they still being powered by the batteries which in turn are being topped up by the AC mains?

 

[Tranona]

Aargh! I pressed the button before I finished. I was about to add that the whole issue of galvanic isolation ( which is something - I believe - the purpose of which is to prevent nastiness happening when your battery and mains get joined up ) brings up another can of worms for me. I'm not really sure how these two interface. For example when I put my cabin lights on and am connected to mains shore power, are they still being powered by the batteries which in turn are being topped up by the AC mains?

The galvanic isolator is there to stop galvanic action from stray currents. more detailed explanation here galvanic-isolator.co.uk/shop/

The 240v circuits and the 12v DC circuits are not connected except when the mains charger is on to charge the batteries. Then when you use one of the 12v consumers like the lights they are powered by the batteries but the amps used is replaced by the charge from the charger.