shackle locking

Monel is an alloy of nickel and copper and little iron (65,33,2%) Although I can't find any electrochemical data for it I would assume that it is not suitable for use with galvanised steel. It is the correct material for seizing stainless steel though.

Regarding galvanised shackles my experience with those from chandlers is that they are absolute rubbish. The pins seem to be very soft and wear to not much more half their diameter in a season. Also the OD of the thread is greater than the pin diameter, presumably because the thread is rolled on rather than cut, with the result that the head end is a slack fit in the hole. I think you will fit that the shackles used for lifting have a shoulder below the head so that they are a decent fit and may have cut threads as well. You would be better off using this type of shackle even though they are not galvanised. I think there is a British standard that covers them.

Use the thickest gavanised wire you can bend and twist for seizing. Do not be tempted to use two, or more, thinnner strands as they will be little better than one strand.

Lake sailor is right in not mooring to the ring, at least with the buoy he has. Some may be suitable but those I have looked at are not according to the suppliers.
 
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Looked at those shackles with split pins. Do you realise they are stainless?

Yes, I just posted the link to show the shackle type. They are available galvanised, and I use them on my chain bridle, the more expensive ones also have a SWL stamped on them. I only use them above the water line so they are regularly checked
 
If the thread part of the pin doesn't protrude enough to peen over with a hammer .... then take a centre punch and hammer - place punch at junction of pin and shackle thread and strike hard to create a deep mark that stops thread from turning.
Plus tie-wraps / monel wire to secure eye of pin to shackle body.
 
I would NEVER use plastic cable ties...I lost o boat from a mooring in Brixham due to them. ( I should add that the contract had gone from the traditional mooring guy to another contractor from up the coast with little experience of conditions in Brixham.) The best approach is a monkey wrench to tighten the galvanised shackle, peen the thread over and monel siezing wire. Check every time you vist the bows.
 
IIRC he uses the cleaned up remains taken off the boat the previous year, held on with bulldog clips.

I have no idea about the effectiveness, conductivity etc, but it brings him some piece of mind!
 
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Frighteningly I used some chain from the riser to my fore deck as a strop as well as a nylon strop. When I inspected it the foredeck end of it was fine but the underwater bit was very corroded. In just one year in fresh water.

This is the two ends on a 7ft length of chain
wornchain.jpg



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This is chinese made chain so anything could happen and looks like it did.
 
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How do you know it's Chinese?
I got a from a bloke (wink,wink) The tale was is was tested chain that was date expired.

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The weld zone - there isn't one,
the shape - triangular and not even,
the finish - washed zinc to look like hot dipped.
All are very typical chinese.
I'll put a huge sum of money it is a very long way from 'tested' as well. Actually I put money on the fact it was never even proof tested.

Date expired chain?????? Whot you been smoking?? I don't want to be rude but I think you need a set of Lefthanded Screwdrivers, I'll do you a good deal on the QT (wink,wink) :-) :-)
 
The only date expired chain that I know of is in lifting gear that has to be annual tested. It is common for perfectly good chain to be replaced after so many years in service immediately prior to that test date.
An example would be chain slings on cranes / derricks / drum lifts etc.
As to date expired chain for anchoring - especially on yot's - never heard of it.

I have to say the chain looks remarkably "clean" and "grey" for "date-expired" or assumed used chain. I think I would agree that chain does look a bit Chinky !!
 
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How does he fit the anode? I wouldn't think you'd get very good conductivity along the length of a chain.

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Not as much as you would think unfortunatly.

We use 4kg lumps molded onto a short length of chain and shackle that into the system, usually by the swivel. It works very well but only for a metre or so each side before fading away.
 
This is a 13mm DIN766/A Short Link Chain made by Maggi Group in Italy. Notice the 'weld zone' i.e horsepower has been used to join the wire togeather and then nicley cleaned up. Not the 2 ends put togeather and a 12V battery attached :-)

Features Hot Dip Galv with Alloy added. Listed break load 8200kg but we have never had a test bit go below 11t odd.

CA76ZIF130.jpg


The weld zone is a real giveaway for most chinese made as you can plainly see.

There is a crowd called 'Eyeco Ltd' (or very similar) in the UK that does Maggi chains, there is probably others as well. Could be worth a look as they are top end manufacturers and have the range from hell including 7 and 9mm short links. Sound funny but those sizes are damn handy if you are in one of those in-between sized boats. Most, if not all, good winch makers have gypsies to suit.
 
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