Sewing machine

viejo gringo

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I need to buy an old sewing machine to get on with making my own canvas items, dodgers sail covers etc etc, i read somewhere once about certain types of domestic machines which were up to the task, i,m on the look out for an old cheap domestic type which i can keep on the boat, any information would be appreciated.
 
I need to buy an old sewing machine to get on with making my own canvas items, dodgers sail covers etc etc, i read somewhere once about certain types of domestic machines which were up to the task, i,m on the look out for an old cheap domestic type which i can keep on the boat, any information would be appreciated.

Keep a look-out for a Jones machine.
Very rubust with a cast body. Mine do zig-zag stitching and will go through multiple layers of canvas/PVC with denim needles.
 
Make sure you get a sewing machine that can fit what is called a "walking foot". This device, SWMBO tells me, is essential when sewing layers of dacron or sunbrella. It is usually supplied as an extra.

Even so, you are likely to damage any domestic machine if you use it too often on thick material. You probably need a Sail-Rite for regular use, specially repairing sails. These cost twice as much as domestic machine and being made of steel, are very heavy. But they are the cruising sailor's machine of choice.
 
We have a Sailrite machine but we know people who have one of the old heavy metal Singers. As said a walking foot is a must and a zig zag facility. Use Dabond UV resistant thread. The best canvas by far is Sunbrella but it isn't sold in the UK as far as I know, although many claim to be the same quality. www.sailrite.com
 
Sunbrella is available in this country from several places. I have personal experience of 2 suppliers, including one willing to import colours or finishes not usually avaiable in the UK, without applying a premium.

I have no connection with either, other than as a customer, but if you need further details, please let me know.

But, on the main topic, I have a Pfaff Select 4 machine with dual feed technology (walking foot) here, and a Brother, also with walking foot on the boat. Undoubtedly dual feed/walking foot technology makes an enormous difference if you're dealing with larger, or thicker, projects. But, in the main a patient approach is imperative.
 
You probably need a Sail-Rite for regular use, specially repairing sails. These cost twice as much as domestic machine and being made of steel, are very heavy. But they are the cruising sailor's machine of choice.

I can second that, having had one for 2 years now. It will take up to 8 layers of Sunbrella or a mixture of layers + webbing. Sewing power is via gearing so a bit slower than domestic machines but draws <200W and runs OK on small inverter. A google will bring up various videos of the machines in use.
 
>Sunbrella is available in this country from several places. I have personal experience of 2 suppliers, including one willing to import colours or finishes not usually avaiable in the UK, without applying a premium.

I'm intrigued, who are they and do they have a Web address or are they private traders?
 
I have bought from both Acorn Canvas and MBS Fabric. Both have websites, and Acorn also retails via eBay. MBS imported from France for me, for a Sunbrella fabric I needed to match an american supplied fabric. Both firms are very personable and will arrange deliveries etc., to suit.

Other than as a satisfied customer, I have no connection with either firm.
 
choosing a sewing machine requires that you open it up and inspect all the bits inside, if they are made of metal - preferably steel not die-cast zinc or plastic then the thing should be OK. Motors should be BIG and mounted on the outside with the option of hand operation (a handle on the flywheel) is also a good plus point.
 
VG,

I would second a Sailrite, one point not yet mentioned is that they can be stored in any orientation and come in heavy duty box with corners protected. With the 8lb hand flywheel it will go through 10xlayers 10oz cloth, and or your finger!. We watched for nearly two years for one to come up secondhand but fortunately S was working in a sail-loft and we got it new at trade, thanks Cindy. Do look at the sailrite website, tells you all the tricks of the trade in a series of very good video clips.

S has not had any income from her skills at the machine, but we have made a lot of friends!

Regards,

John
 
I'd agree with a Sailrite. However, being a professional machinist and having had an industrial machine, it does have it's drawbacks.
It's basic, needs constant attention for potential rust problems (liberal use of Boeshield). The inability of winding a second bobbin whilst working is, I find, extremely annoying and unnecessary. It is very noisy when sewing heavy fabric or several layers but fine on say 3/4 thicknesses. I thought this was just my machine but talking to other people they have the same issues. It is also not a machine one would want to use for normal household sewing. i.e. curtains, covers and light/medium furnishings. It comes with an 'all round' foot, however I would recommend purchasing a separate zipper foot. It is difficult to insert heavy duty zips in heavy material when there are seams involved with the generic foot.
It is necessary to use the wheel, by hand, when sewing through a thick seam, to avoid breaking the needle.
If you are going to use it on your saloon table please make sure you put additional supports under the table. I have a block & tackle to lift the beast onto the table & a skateboard type platform to move it from it's storage space under our bed into the saloon!
All the above apart it is a great heavy duty machine. It hasn't earn't me any money either however it has given us many meals out with & from satisfied customers. Can't be all bad!! :)
 
I'd agree with a Sailrite. However, being a professional machinist and having had an industrial machine, it does have it's drawbacks.

Firstly, I'm not a professional machinist, I used to employ those. I agree the Sailrite isn't perfect but can't understand some of your comments.

Rust is no more of a problem than for any "heavy domestic" machine on board a boat. I just use standard machine oil and have had no problems in 2 years of salty environment.

I always pre-wind several bobbins (V92 thread doesn't go far) before starting a job so inserting another isn't a problem.

Weight wise, it's not much different to our 2kw Honda genny and I find no need for saloon table supports (Moody quality:D) or a block and tackle.

I agree that left and right zipper feet make life much easier, so does the binding attachment. One useful feature is the bolt rope groove under the standard foot, very easy to sew luff tape. No, it doesn't work well with light domestic fabrics, often snags - maybe the sharpness of the feed teeth and the walking foot are the problem.
 
Firstly, I'm not a professional machinist, I used to employ those. I agree the Sailrite isn't perfect but can't understand some of your comments.

Rust is no more of a problem than for any "heavy domestic" machine on board a boat. I just use standard machine oil and have had no problems in 2 years of salty environment.

I always pre-wind several bobbins (V92 thread doesn't go far) before starting a job so inserting another isn't a problem.

Weight wise, it's not much different to our 2kw Honda genny and I find no need for saloon table supports (Moody quality:D) or a block and tackle.

I agree that left and right zipper feet make life much easier, so does the binding attachment. One useful feature is the bolt rope groove under the standard foot, very easy to sew luff tape. No, it doesn't work well with light domestic fabrics, often snags - maybe the sharpness of the feed teeth and the walking foot are the problem.

Having had a 60 yr old Singer on board for 14 years with absolutely no sign of rust at all, I was surprised to see small areas of rust appearing on a machine owned for a few months !
Very possibly it's the same weight as a generator! I take it you are a fella, I'm not and at 5'2" I find I cannot physically lift the machine weighing 32kgs onto the table:) I wouldn't want to lift a generator onto the table either. :)
We also have a Moody, the saloon table is supported centrally by a post. The weight of that machine on one edge of the table would do it no good at all.
Absolutely, winding several bobbins at once, one has to as there is no alternative. It is much easier and much less wasteful to wind as you work.
Don't get me wrong I love the machine and am pleased I bought it, just pointing out what I feel is the downside.
 
I have a Sailrite too and am very happy.

Re bobbins winding: when I made the bimini I had a smaller cone of thread which I used to wind bobbins while I was sewing; the big cone for sewing, the small one for winding bobbins at the same time

In practice, I now have a box with a few dozen bobbins all loaded with different threads, a lot easier

:)
 
A useful thread here:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312453

Most of the old, cast, hand crankers (Singer, Frister and Rossman, Jones, etc) will give good service and will not be damaged by hard work. They could join corrugated iron.

If you need a motor you do find early ones now and again, weight is the key. No zig zag though, but that is not a problem for the work you envisage.
 
No, it doesn't work well with light domestic fabrics, often snags - maybe the sharpness of the feed teeth and the walking foot are the problem.

Just a suggestion based on sewing delicate fabrics with a domestic machine... sandwich the item to be sewn between a couple of sheets of tissue paper, preferably white/undyed - I've used the remains of paper patterns for this purpose in the past. Simply tear away afterwards. And ensure you are using a suitably sized and sharp needle, ie a much finer one than you'd use for canvas.
 
Just a suggestion based on sewing delicate fabrics with a domestic machine... sandwich the item to be sewn between a couple of sheets of tissue paper, preferably white/undyed - I've used the remains of paper patterns for this purpose in the past. Simply tear away afterwards. And ensure you are using a suitably sized and sharp needle, ie a much finer one than you'd use for canvas.

Good idea, thanks for the tip I'll give it a try next time.
 
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