seacock seized

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The heads outlet seacock on Fairwinds won't close.

Boat is out of the water - what is the best procedure? Will squirting WD40 up from the outside do any good?

And while on the subjectr of seized things - the ignition switch on thebasic Beta control panel is also seized. Copious quantities of WD40 have beensquirted into it, but to no avail so far.


- W
 
What sort is it? If it is Blakes, then take it apart, regrind the cone, regrease. If a ball valve then yes, WD40 may loosen the crud around the ball, but you probably need to do inside as well. Operating either sort frequently will help reduce possible seizing.
 
You need to sort the switch panel. If the spring return mechanism fails the starter motor will remain engaged after starting the engine and within 5 mins you will be surrounded by clouds of acrid smoke! Don't ask me how I know. Fortunately cheapish replacements for the switch are available on eBay. Search for Kubota rather than Beta
 
Tranona got it in one ....

The cone seacocks for Blakes are dead easy to service. Undo the two bolts on top .. remove the keeper plate ... then work the cone out.
The only thing to be cautious about - if its so seized that you need to give it a few knocks to shock the cone to move - don't do it with a hammer !! Use a block of wood ... it usually frees after a few taps ...
I often read about advice to clean up and re-grind the cone ... in my parley - thats fine emery cloth to get it clean and smooth ready for a thin film of grease. My point though - is that I also do the inside of the base part of the valve .. IMHO no good having a good cone if the other part is not ..
If you have the usual grill on the outside - you cannot get a 'drift' up in there to move the cone.

I've just done both my Blakes ... IN and OUT.
 
I think I've only ever removed the cones 2 or 3 times in 28 years.
A little taping on the handle and it moves. A few left and rights and it's free, and they have never leaked.
I did pull a bolt and it was very pink and corroded where it goes through the hull so I took out a second mortgage and renewed all the bolts.

Only last week I saw a guy with a cone that had broke. It had evidence of a lot of electrolytic action.
 
That won't help. It is a plated ball running in self lubricating teflon or similar socket. The problem will be deposits built up around the ball because of lack of use. WD40 may help break the crud down so the ball can turn. If you can't clear it in situ, remove it from the through hull and soak it in kettle cleaner. Won't do any harm to the valve or body but will dissolve the crud. Just make sure you don't disturb the through hull seal in the process.
 
I'm always wary of WD40 and similar where plastics are involved .... some plastics swell with the petroleum content in WD40 and similar ...

Also WD40 is not half as effective as it used to be - after the Green brigade got the formula changed. It used to be a much kinder form of Easy Start for engines .. now its useless.

TBH - being in the Oil trade - WD40 is a 'swear word' ....
 
As it is a ball, they seize up if they are left in the same position for a long time. If closed, they can get barnacles growing on the ball surface which scour the Teflon. The teflon
can be damaged and then can move with the ball. Time to replace if you can see the teflon has moved. There is high chance of breaking off the handle if it is truly stuck.
 
Oh dear. Not a single helpful answer.

I want to free THIS seacock, not engage in a discussion as to what it should be replaced with.

I have managed to free all the others, but this is the largest diameter, which I am guessing is why it has seized.

If WD40 might damage the plastic, what can I use instead? I can take the hose off, stick a bung in the valve from the outside, pour something in and leave it to marinate if that would help.

- W
 
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My past experience of seized ball valves is to replace regardless of how new they are. I did manage to get apart once for cleaning, but putting it back together again didn't work so a new one went on.
 
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