seacock seized

webcraft said:
... And while on the subjectr of seized things - the ignition switch on thebasic Beta control panel is also seized. Copious quantities of WD40 have beensquirted into it, but to no avail so far.


- W
Click to expand...

I have freed sticking ignition switches with 3:1 oil, motorbikes and boats. As light oil it has sufficient penetration properties for this sort of application. After the switch starts to move squirt some more in and it usually frees up completely. I have used both the bottle and spray can of 3:1 oil, spray can is best as it forces oil in.
 
Just a little tip .... if you find your wood plug or other is no good .. if you valve is shot and water coming in ... or you want to fix while afloat ....

There's an old hands way to limit water in ..... collision mat. Bit of a misnomer - but basically a a mat that you hang overside with lines from all 4 corners ... slide it along hull till you have it over the inlet ... let water pressure press it against the inlet .... Modern day material is a thick bin bag !

Agreed not so easy if keel(s) are in way ... but may be a saviour for you.
 
I've never used Blake's seacocks due to price but used plenty of ball valves which are cheap and effective but you MUST exercise them regularly to prevent them sticking. (TBH, Blake's can stick as well but can be dismantled to un stick). I've no experience of Marelon so can't comment.
In your position, I'd replace both with new ball valves.
 
Refueler said:
Tranona got it in one ....

The cone seacocks for Blakes are dead easy to service. Undo the two bolts on top .. remove the keeper plate ... then work the cone out.
The only thing to be cautious about - if its so seized that you need to give it a few knocks to shock the cone to move - don't do it with a hammer !! Use a block of wood ... it usually frees after a few taps ...
I often read about advice to clean up and re-grind the cone ... in my parley - thats fine emery cloth to get it clean and smooth ready for a thin film of grease. My point though - is that I also do the inside of the base part of the valve .. IMHO no good having a good cone if the other part is not ..
If you have the usual grill on the outside - you cannot get a 'drift' up in there to move the cone.

I've just done both my Blakes ... IN and OUT.
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They, Blakes remain for me the very best of seacocks, beautifully engineered, simple in operation and oh so easy to maintain.
I have done mine in the water, a wooden plug in the outlet, undo two already slack nuts which are phophor bronze, remove the plate and cone.
Clean up the cone then some fine grinding paste on the cone and rotate it, not so energetically just a steady pressure a couple minutes ..done.
Remove all remaining paste and a touch of grease, replace cone, and gently tighten the nuts.
 
Tranona said:
That is really unfair and unnecessary. It is seized because it has not been operated and deposits have built up around the ball. Simples. It is not easy to free off because it is difficult to access and to apply anything that will break down the deposits. Little to do with diameter except that there is a larger surface area coated with crud. WD40 will not damage the teflon,

Just as I advised in posts#2&9 - based on dealing with them in the past.

Really not a point in you asking for advice, getting it and then claiming you had not got a "a single helpful answer", when you have.

Your proposal to plug it and pour kettle cleaner in from the top may well work. If it does not, and you still want to save it, then follow my advice to remove it and soak the whole valve in kettle cleaner which will do no harm to the valve. There is always the possibility though that it is not deposits, but the plating on the ball has failed, but you won't be able to check that without removing and cleaning.
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Very unfair, the answer is staring at him, remove and replace with whatever is your choice and the problem goes away, in the bin with the old seacock.
 
ghostlymoron said:
I've never used Blake's seacocks due to price but used plenty of ball valves which are cheap and effective but you MUST exercise them regularly to prevent them sticking. (TBH, Blake's can stick as well but can be dismantled to un stick). I've no experience of Marelon so can't comment.
In your position, I'd replace both with new ball valves.
Click to expand...

Blakes can be unstuck on the water ..... by slacking the two bolts and gently tapping .... the cone can and often does free .. you may get a small amount of water - but not a flood .... work the cone back and forth while slowly tightening bolts till water stops but cone still moves.
Use the valve frequently and it should stay free till you can dry out and sort properly.
 
This is what force4 have to say

Blakes of Gosport Blakes Seacock
Blakes Seacocks are still the most popular seacocks for most toilet installations. Manufactured from cast bronze, they feature a positive action on/off lever which can be reversed for left or right hand operation.

  • Built-in stainless steel grease nipple for in-water maintenance
  • Integral hose connection • 4 machined phosphor bronze fixing bolts take sideways loads
  • Includeds external flange plate
  • Can be installed in hull thicknesses up to 36mm
  • Suitable for GRP, wood, steel and ferro-cement hull

 
webcraft said:
Today it freed off with a little more 'grunt' applied.

Feels a bit 'gritty'

- W
Click to expand...


It will do ... till its reground with its outer case. But at least its working ...

You could try this ... slack the bolts till you can slightly move the cone ... let the little bit of water ease through .. work the valve to see if the water can wash out the 'gritty feel'.

Retighten etc.
 
Ignition switch is still stuck.

I have a whole other better control panel with rev counter and temp gauge, which was originally fitted but went on fire not long into its existence. It has been rebuilt but I have never refitted it because I am not sure where the various wires go . . . .

- W
 
Refueler said:
It will do ... till its reground with its outer case. But at least its working ...

You could try this ... slack the bolts till you can slightly move the cone ... let the little bit of water ease through .. work the valve to see if the water can wash out the 'gritty feel'.

Retighten etc.
Click to expand...

It's a ball. valve, not a Blakes . . .

- W
 
Rappey said:
This is what force4 have to say

Blakes of Gosport Blakes Seacock
Blakes Seacocks are still the most popular seacocks for most toilet installations. Manufactured from cast bronze, they feature a positive action on/off lever which can be reversed for left or right hand operation.

  • Built-in stainless steel grease nipple for in-water maintenance
  • Integral hose connection • 4 machined phosphor bronze fixing bolts take sideways loads
  • Includeds external flange plate
  • Can be installed in hull thicknesses up to 36mm
  • Suitable for GRP, wood, steel and ferro-cement hull


  • Better quality than what ?
Click to expand...
Dzr brass as opposed to just brass.
I visit Chandler lately and they had different section for DZR.

I expect ball components are the same ?
 
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