smithy
Well-Known Member
Anyone tried one of these? It looks pretty impressive in the video but I am always a bit sceptical
http://tercoo-rotating-blaster.co.uk/
http://tercoo-rotating-blaster.co.uk/
Rust removal tool
- Thread starter smithy
- Start date
RichardS
N/A
Sailingsaves
Well-Known Member
Seen similar used on armoured vehicles and did a good job, not sure what you intend to use it upon. Would certainly give a nice dimple effect to a car !
Should be used in an angle grinder imo because bearings are made to take lateral load, but bearings in drill are not designed to take lateral load, but then I'm fussy about making my tools last a long time.
Poignard
Well-Known Member
Good point but, to be effective, it should not be pressed hard against the surface. If using it in an angle-grinder you'd need to know the maximum safe speed of the gadget. I don't see that given on the website.
ps According to Tercoo US website, the maximum speed is 4000 rpm. Optimum speed is less.
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johnphilip
Well-Known Member
Surely angle grinders spin at vastly higher revs than drills, sounds as though you are asking the rubber disc to throw off the tips like shrapnel?
Sailingsaves
Well-Known Member
Good point. Not sure if angle grinders come with variable speed; haven't used any of mine for a while. If not, then manufacturers of this disc thing don't care about one's drill bearings. The discs I saw used on armour were all metal disc though, I didn't look closely enough to see that this product is rubber with teeth embedded.
As you say, could be dangerous. Has the OP used the metal 'cup' type brushes before? I know they don't send much shrapnel out:
http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Step-By-Step/FH03JUN_UTANGG_05.JPG
http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/angle-grinder-wire-brush
Edit - Having watched video more closely, 1 min 50 seconds in they do use and angle grinder for the big disc, and the smaller discs in drill don't seem to need much lateral pressure, so drill bearings may hold up - could be a good little product - unique selling point is that it won't clog up if used on tar etc as a brush cup would.
I'd still use it like a chain saw and stand off to one side though so as not to have my face over the disc in case one tooth does come away from rubber.
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pete
Well-Known Member
I bought one several years ago different make, like this one http://www.toplicht.de/en/shop/werk...-kratzer/perago-abziehscheiben-strahlscheiben
It worked okay but don't remember being amazed by it. It has rows of tips and was quite expensive to buy. I seem to remember reading that after a few years the rubber deteriorates and then they are not safe to use even if they have never been used.
It's still in the garage somewhere.
I have found some stainless steel cup brushes can loose there bristles at an alarming rate, you usually find them stuck in your clothing. I risk a lot of things that I shouldn't but would never risk using one without eye protection.
pete
It worked okay but don't remember being amazed by it. It has rows of tips and was quite expensive to buy. I seem to remember reading that after a few years the rubber deteriorates and then they are not safe to use even if they have never been used.
It's still in the garage somewhere.
I have found some stainless steel cup brushes can loose there bristles at an alarming rate, you usually find them stuck in your clothing. I risk a lot of things that I shouldn't but would never risk using one without eye protection.
pete
Ruffles
Well-Known Member
I use a flap wheel and an angle grinder. Cheap combination and gets down to bright metal.
I would have thought it would have the same problem as wire brushes. You end up with a surface of polished rust!
I would have thought it would have the same problem as wire brushes. You end up with a surface of polished rust!
30boat
N/A
An angle grinder probably spins too fast .
DavidMcMullan
Well-Known Member
Yes, I have used them and they are very good on flat surfaces. However sharp corners/edges will knock out the tungsten tips. Used on the underside of hull to take the surface back to bright metal, prior to repainting.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
The most important thing in removing rust from steel is to remove all the iron oxide including and lodged in any pitting.
The best mechanical is grit blasting at the grit will always remove any oxide from the bottom of the pitting. Wire brushing and grinding will not get into the bottom of the pitting. Pneumatic needle descaling is the next best.
The other way to remove all the oxide from the pitting is to use hydrochloric acid. (brick cleaner). This is the way I am currently removing rust spots from the deck of my steel boat.
I follow the hydrochloric acid with phosphoric acid that drys to a protective film as the steel is so clean after the hydrochloric acid that the steel will flash rust.
The best mechanical is grit blasting at the grit will always remove any oxide from the bottom of the pitting. Wire brushing and grinding will not get into the bottom of the pitting. Pneumatic needle descaling is the next best.
The other way to remove all the oxide from the pitting is to use hydrochloric acid. (brick cleaner). This is the way I am currently removing rust spots from the deck of my steel boat.
I follow the hydrochloric acid with phosphoric acid that drys to a protective film as the steel is so clean after the hydrochloric acid that the steel will flash rust.
GHA
Well-Known Member
I've used similar -perago as mentioned in another post. very good, takes ages but seems to really gets into the pits to remove all the rust. No problem in a drill, there's very little force involved so drill bearings should be fine.
GHA
Well-Known Member
I used to think the same until a hot day in the tropics splashing some phosphoric acid onto an apparently pristine bright metal area prepared with a flap disk. Fizz and hiss as the acid reacted with rust still in the pits. Flap disks are great for fairing nearby paint but unfortunately don't get right into the pits.
Haven't had the same high temperatures to try the same test with these disks but suspect they would do much better, the finish is "battered" not polished like flap disks.
smithy
Well-Known Member
I'm sure I saw a warning on their site not to use with an angle grinder. I'm lucky to have encapsulated keels but thought it might be handy for cast iron ones.
Poignard
Well-Known Member
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