Running a heater off a perkins.

[chrishelen]

My perkins m30 had what looks like a run off and return plugs from the water pump to fit a heater.
Has anyone done this? It would require a run of about 10 feet to the wheelhouse. I am planning to use a car type heater matrix fitted on the bulkhead. Would there be a problem then with the engine running a bit colder?
Thanks in advance.

 

[simonfraser]

'Would there be a problem then with the engine running a bit colder?'

thats what the thermostat is for. water cooling is much more efficient anyway.
cant see it being a problem.

 

[chrishelen]

So the heater would be running at lukewarm warm if the thermostat kept the heat in the engine?

 

[simonfraser]

Depends where you tap it from, assuming you have a heat exchanger, sea water / internal engine cooling water:

Cooling sea water, bad, be cold.

Cooling water internal to the engine, good, hot.

 

[QBhoy]

Probably for a calorifier, which would be in close proximity to the engine ? Just a thought.

 

[chrishelen]

Depends where you tap it from, assuming you have a heat exchanger, sea water / internal engine cooling water:

Cooling sea water, bad, be cold.

Cooling water internal to the engine, good, hot.

It would be tapped from the internal cooling water circuit. But the temperature is still controlled by the termost at? So cool heater matrix.
It would be good to hear off people that have this sort of heating set up.

 

[Momac]

I don't have your engine or a heater but do have a calorifier with a long run of hoses. About 6 ft between the engine and the calorifier.
Greater fluid volume equals greater expansion. So if the coolant is topped up too high on the cold engine there is some coolant ejected.
Otherwise the calorifier works fine making very hot water and I have not noticed any difference in temperature against the other engine.
I imagine the heating affect will be modest given the relatively large volume to be heated compared to a car.
A set of thermal underwear and possibly an electrically heated seat might be a better investment.

 

[chrishelen]

I don't have your engine or a heater but do have a calorifier with a long run of hoses. About 6 ft between the engine and the calorifier.
Greater fluid volume equals greater expansion. So if the coolant is topped up too high on the cold engine there is some coolant ejected.
Otherwise the calorifier works fine making very hot water and I have not noticed any difference in temperature against the other engine.
I imagine the heating affect will be modest given the relatively large volume to be heated compared to a car.
A set of thermal underwear and possibly an electrically heated seat might be a better investment.

Thanks but I want to keep it simple.
The wheelhouse is about the same size as a small car, so it should be fine with a car matrix heater. I wear themals all day, but it would be nice to just take the ice box feel we have at the moment.

 

[QBhoy]

Thought about an Eberspacher or similar ?

 

[Tranona]

The engine runs at a much higher temperature than seawater cooled, probably 95C. The handbook will give the exact temperature when the thermostat opens. The calorifier take off and return will use water at that temperature and that is what will flow through the matrix, less any losses on the way. So insulate the pipes if you find the temperature falls too much. Will not affect the engine as the thermostat will control the engine temperature.

The reason why few boats use this type of heating is that it is only available when the engine is running and the prime need for heating in a cruising boat is when it is not running! however for you use it is great. For cruising boats the independent systems such as Webasto, Eber, Mikuni are more suited.

 

[Spi D]

If using a heater matrix you might also consider air recirculation vs. freash (as in a car).

As boats generally are less tight that cars, the downside to recirculation (humidity, mist) potentially could be ignored to get the room temp up even if the coolant is not really hot.

If more inspired by cars you could even fit a valve to select recirculation.

I wouldn't try a car-designed matrix as they commonly are purpose build to car models and their fitment of controls.
A Google for 'boat heater matrix' will show plenty of options.

 

[NormanS]

If you go for a "boat" anything it'll just cost you more. I have a deck saloon yacht, which means I have the option to steer from inside. With a Volvo MD22 ( Perkins Prima) I fitted a matrix from a Transit, piped into the flow to the calorifier. I use fan and ducting to direct the heat, just like a car. Toasty!

 

[chrishelen]

If you go for a "boat" anything it'll just cost you more. I have a deck saloon yacht, which means I have the option to steer from inside. With a Volvo MD22 ( Perkins Prima) I fitted a matrix from a Transit, piped into the flow to the calorifier. I use fan and ducting to direct the heat, just like a car. Toasty!

Brilliant. Thanks.

 

[Machaseo]

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/all-in-one-compact-car-heater-with-vents-and-valve

Something like this would work, I installed a hotpot one from ASAP supplies in a cabin rib a few years ago. It was great when the engine was running hard but no use at tickover, it wouldnt really warm up properly.

 

[NormanS]

£168? My Transit matrix cost £10.

 

[Greg2]

We have Perkins engines and one runs the calorifier from the take off points you describe and we fitted a heater matrix to the other. It is a bespoke marine job made by Eberspacher (I got it for a reasonable price as it was old Sealine stock when they went to the wall). Our engines run at 80 degrees so we never get hot, toasty heat but it works for de-misting and it makes the helm (we have a Broom so helm under a canopy)/cockpit a bit warmer.

 

[chrishelen]

Managed to get a Transit heater and blower for 15 quid to. Just need to plumb it in when I get a quiet period.

 

[NormanS]

Managed to get a Transit heater and blower for 15 quid to. Just need to plumb it in when I get a quiet period.

You'll love it.

 

[NormanB]

Sounds like a great project. It would be worth designing the plumbing properly so that the engine and heater are in the same circulation loop (so they are always at the same temperature) and the thermostat only opens and bleeds through the heat exchanger at designed engine operating temperature.

 

[NormanS]

Sounds like a great project. It would be worth designing the plumbing properly so that the engine and heater are in the same circulation loop (so they are always at the same temperature) and the thermostat only opens and bleeds through the heat exchanger at designed engine operating temperature.

If it's fed off the supply to the calorifier, that's what happens. Hot water goes to the matrix when the thermostat opens, so the engine runs at its designed temperature. The heating is only using waste heat. I do find that it has the effect of slightly reducing the temperature available from the calorifier, but not a lot.