Replace standing rigging without dropping the mast

[cmedsailor]

I am thinking that time is coming to replace the standing rigging of my boat. Not immediately but I think in the near future. It’s 11 years old, doesn’t really look tired but you never know. If I remove the mast I see a lot of hassle with the cables running inside the mast, coming out at the bottom and then down the deck. Most of them don’t have any connections below the mast foot (radar, antenna tv, etc) so it looks like a lot of work to remove them completely, at least for myself. If I hire an electrician for this it’s a different story. Keeping the mast in place and supporting it I could replace the whole rigging even myself (step by step obviously and using a crane).
Is there really a need to drop the mast? As long as all wires work fine (which they do) and don’t need to replace any is there anything else I cannot think of that could be a benefit or a must in order to drop the mast?
Thanks

 

[johnphilip]

I am thinking that time is coming to replace the standing rigging of my boat. Not immediately but I think in the near future. It’s 11 years old, doesn’t really look tired but you never know. If I remove the mast I see a lot of hassle with the cables running inside the mast, coming out at the bottom and then down the deck. Most of them don’t have any connections below the mast foot (radar, antenna tv, etc) so it looks like a lot of work to remove them completely, at least for myself. If I hire an electrician for this it’s a different story. Keeping the mast in place and supporting it I could replace the whole rigging even myself (step by step obviously and using a crane).
Is there really a need to drop the mast? As long as all wires work fine (which they do) and don’t need to replace any is there anything else I cannot think of that could be a benefit or a must in order to drop the mast?
Thanks

Turn the boat on her side and prop up the masthead?

 

[macd]

The pros routinely replace rigging with the mast up.
Tip: if you don't want an entry for the Darwin awards, replaced one piece at a time.

 

[chubby]

I have had mine changed with the mast up, as you say saves disturbing the electrics and risking the aerials, lights, wind transducers etc.

If you have a fairly simple rig, a rigger can just replace one wire at a time, maybe take a halyard as back up, might actually be easier to check the length of each wire. Previously a rigger has just gone up the mast but my yard currently has a "cherry picker" of the type used for changing street light bulbs etc, ideal for the job.

 

[cmedsailor]

If you have a fairly simple rig, a rigger can just replace one wire at a time, maybe take a halyard as back up, might actually be easier to check the length of each wire. Previously a rigger has just gone up the mast but my yard currently has a "cherry picker" of the type used for changing street light bulbs etc, ideal for the job.

Actually I have thought how to do the work if I don't remove the mast. It's a simple masthead with twin backstays, two spreaders and a babystay. The forestay is relatively new (replaced 2 year ago), so I will not touch it. Babystay can be replaced very easily. I can very easily also remove the lower inter (not sure this is their name); you know those that end on the first spreader. I don't even need a crane for these. Then using the forestay/babystay and these two lower inters plus topping list and main sail halyard to support the aft side of the mast and another two spinakle halyard to support the two sides I could remove the rest of the rigging using a crane. But all these provided I keep the mast in place.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Yes, it can be done, but there's value to dropping the mast every few years. It really allows you to do a minute examination of the fittings, to replace stuff with feet firmly on the ground so that you can concentrate on doing the job properly and not least, to give the thing a good wash and brush up. The mast is going to have to come down at some point in the future, so it's also the opportunity to put proper cable breaks in place for the electrics with dry plugs, cable glands, terminal blocks, etc, and to check electrical cabling which can suffer from internal corrosion leading to increased resistance and decreased performance.

PS - also to have a good look at the mast step, shroud bases, etc

 

[MASH]

+1

 

[doug748]

I have done the intermediate and lowers whilst ashore. So it is perfectly possible singlehanded, and without a crane, provided you can climb the mast and are not in a rush. I put in extra support via the spinnaker halyards etc.

I took them down in pairs and took them to the rigger to copy - then there was no stress about measurements, about £60 per length if I remember properly. I re used the open-type screws which is a big expense swerved.

I would be less happy about the backstay and particularly the forestay (if it has roller reefing). The reason being that the head of the mast tends to be bouncy at the best of times and you will have to manipulate pliers and screwdrivers. There is also the potential for damage as you lower away the reefing foil. Alas, in my view, the forestay is the most important one to replace. I guess I would do it if I was young and fit. With a crane it could be ok, are you planning to climb the gantry? I have also had a go at this and it can be quite tricky to get in the right position.

Unless the boat has circumnavigated, or had particularly heavy use, I would leave the rigging to 20 years but that is a personal choice.

 

[PhillM]

I felt that I wanted the mast down so we could remove, check and replace all fittings. I replaced all the blocks at the same time.

I also felt that a rewire would be a good idea.

But it did grow the job quite significantly.

Otoh I know it's all renewed, so should all last 10 years or so.

I'd hate to have done the rig but then have to take the mast down to do a rewire a couple of years down the line.

 

[Laurie]

This is gratifying to hear of riggers doing this with mast up, as I want to replace my standing rigging (except forestay) this winter. Space is going to make it difficult to unstep the mast

 

[Neil_Y]

Yes, I'd change one at a time and backed up with a rope which can be tensioned easily. Leaving the rig standing just held with rope (which is what it sounded like you were planning) may with the rope stretch allow the mast to move around a good bit if there is any breeze. Using a halyard rather than a single rope means you have twice the length and stretch as % of length. The mast is also then supported by the blocks so you can't check the blocks for free movement and any flat spots whilst your up the mast. I'd use a halyard to lower the rigging so someone at the deck can have the weight on a winch.

 

[Skylark]

I had the standing rigging changed on my 361 earlier this year in anticipation of putting her up for sale. The mast was removed and in preparation I had to take a hacksaw to the radar cable. It almost reduced me to tears

That said, once it was down it gave me the opportunity to change the combined steaming and deck light wiring which was looking a bit grim. I replaced the VHF fittings as they, too were looking ready to fail any time soon. After inspecting the mast, the rigger changed two of the spreader fittings. I guess this would not be possible with the mast up?

Later in the year, I part exchanged the boat and the price offered did not reflect the fact that I'd had the rigging changed. That was £2,500 down the drain

 

[maxi]

By all means keep the mast stepped & do as you suggest, one stay at a time. BUT don't do it if the boat is ashore.

 

[Laurie]

By all means keep the mast stepped & do as you suggest, one stay at a time. BUT don't do it if the boat is ashore.

Which it will be.........hmmmm

 

[boguing]

As Doug implied, shrouds can be done two at a time. For the caps use a good main halyard to take two rope temporary shrouds up. Not neccy if you are confident that no wakes will roll you. Safer though. When doing the everything else, loosen the rest a bit. High tension is for sailing, not to hold the mast and a body up.

Maxi reiterates the advice given by a pro rigger thirty years ago. Never go up when ashore.

I've done it both ways, more frequently mast up, but it's actually quicker to take it down if the crane is available promptly. Do not do it in Greece when the President dies just after lifting the mast out on a Thursday early am. The country takes Friday off due to the grief. They don't work on weekends on Preveza commercial dock. And then there's a National day of mourning on the Monday.

 

[nigelmercier]

Never go up when ashore...

Why? Surely it is more stable, and if you fall you would hit the deck anyway.

 

[Norman_E]

Caution: Some rigs cannot be fully done with the mast up. On my boat some of the rig is attached to the through mast fittings to which the spreaders are attached. The spreaders have to come off to change them.

 

[C08]

Not a difficult job if you are up for several trips up the mast. One to measure up all lengths, then one trip for caps, one for lowers, forestay and backstays. Say 5-7 trips up. I had swaged fittings for the tops and Norseman fittings for the bottom eyes, the way many riggers do it. Took me three weekends to do mine and I saved about £500 on the job. Also I checked blocks and replaced running rigging at the same time/serviced lights and other checks aloft. Depends on whether you have more time than money!