Running cables down the outside of the mast...

[Captain Crisp]

Hi I need to replace my coax and electric wire to the top of the mast. Unfortunately, running them inside the mast looks a lot more difficult than I'd anticipated and I don't want to miss my mast step and launch date next week.

So... thinking that I may use a temporary solution for this season and run them down the outside of the mast.

Is that reasonable and what would be the best - temporary - way to secure them to the mast? Or would I be better taping them to a stay?

Thanks!

Crisp

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Hi I need to replace my coax and electric wire to the top of the mast. Unfortunately, running them inside the mast looks a lot more difficult than I'd anticipated and I don't want to miss my mast step and launch date next week.

So... thinking that I may use a temporary solution for this season and run them down the outside of the mast.

Is that reasonable and what would be the best - temporary - way to secure them to the mast? Or would I be better taping them to a stay?

Thanks!

Crisp

If your existing cables are still in place? what is difficult about using them to pull in the new. You don't say what the difficulty is.

 

[Rappey]

How about running the cable down the cap shroud rather than the mast ?

 

[Sandy]

You should be able to run a cable up the mast in about 10 mins when it is horizontal..

What is making this more difficult?

 

[Neeves]

I'd take the time, somehow, to do it properly - as the temporary route might be a long time, months not days, and fail inappropriately but - then I was self employed and one of my crew worked for me.

The main or headsail halyards can be used to carry wires, up or down mast and or feed a new mouse line. If there is a conduit in the mast, retrtieve, one or all cables (often they are cable tied together) then add a 2 new mouse lines, one for now and the other for ...later and I might cable tie the new cables to the existing loom. If its a loom there should be a well marked junction box, below deck, for such an eventuality

It really needs two people for any of this

I'd cable tie them to a rope and then cable tie the rope to a stay to me the logical stay would be the back stay, even though this might mean longer cables than necessary.

Jonathan

 

[IanCC]

You should be able to run a cable up the mast in about 10 mins when it is horizontal..

What is making this more difficult?

Depends on the fit. 10 minutes on mine would get cable movement of about 10".

 

[Captain Crisp]

Thanks for replies.

As you can hopefully see, there is only a tiny bit of fragile/rusty flex sticking out at the top through a very small hole. The top of the mast is also covered by a welded-on piece of stainless steel to which the stays are attached..

I think it's possible to pull out the integrated halyard blocks which would help, however, the 55yr old screws on that are currently unturnable.

Hence my looking for alternative plan for this season! But very happy to hear all thoughts!

 

[Captain Crisp]

 

[Daydream believer]

I would be more worried about changing that forestay than running wires down masts
Find out why it got damaged in the first place

 

[Captain Crisp]

I would be more worried about changing that forestay than running wires down masts
Find out why it got damaged in the first place

I wondered about that - I'll send a pic to the guy who rigged it... I did have a bad jam last year when the top of the jib halyard got twisted around the stay... Do you think it's done for?

 

[Daydream believer]

I wondered about that - I'll send a pic to the guy who rigged it... I did have a bad jam last year when the top of the jib halyard got twisted around the stay... Do you think it's done for?

Ask the forum for opinions. But I changed mine. I sorted the reason why I had wrap. I fitted a halyard aligner to prevent wraps

 

[NormanS]

I wondered about that - I'll send a pic to the guy who rigged it... I did have a bad jam last year when the top of the jib halyard got twisted around the stay... Do you think it's done for?

That's the classic damage from a halliard wrap. It's essential that the halliard pulls at an angle from the forestay, often achieved by fitting a halliard diverter to the mast. It means that the halliard, after coming off the masthead sheave, is then pulled away from its direct line of pull to the head of the foresail. Yes, that forestay is knackered.

 

[Captain Crisp]

That's the classic damage from a halliard wrap. It's essential that the halliard pulls at an angle from the forestay, often achieved by fitting a halliard diverter to the mast. It means that the halliard, after coming off the masthead sheave, is then pulled away from its direct line of pull to the head of the foresail. Yes, that forestay is knackered.

Thanks... Good thing I posted the pic!

Next question - how do I get a new one and can I replace it myself??

 

[Daydream believer]

No. You get to see a rigger, because he has to swage both ends of the wire through the foil. From your post it does not sound if you have the experience to do your own swages & I would not recommend it anyway
The length has to be exact & the fittings have to be secure, The furling drum & the top swivel may need maintenance & a rigger could sort that for you all in one go
The rigger would probably sort your wiring for you as well.
Just remember, sailing involves costs & sometimes one has to bite the bullet & accept that fact & get on with it.

 

[neil_s]

Thanks... Good thing I posted the pic!

Next question - how do I get a new one and can I replace it myself??

You will have to dismantle your roller reefing to get the wire out. I do mine myself - it's an elderly Rotostay. I would suggest your forestay wire may be too long anyway. For the Rotostay , the top end of the luff spar bears on the forestay's top swage, so no forestay wire is visible. To get the correct mast rake, you fit an extension, either above the top swage or below the drum. To answer your original question, you might be able to run the electric cables down the mast tucked into the corner of the luff groove. use a long screw every 18 inches or so, Inserted through the mast wall, to keep them in the corner. Machine screws would be the better idea, rather than self tappers, so there aren't any sharp edges to wear your cables. This could be a permanent solution with a bit of care! Alternatively - place your VHF antenna on the pushpit and use a mobile anchor light hung in the fore-rigging.

 

[Daydream believer]

You will have to dismantle your roller reefing to get the wire out. I do mine myself - it's an elderly Rotostay. I would suggest your forestay wire may be too long anyway. For the Rotostay , the top end of the luff spar bears on the forestay's top swage, so no forestay wire is visible. To get the correct mast rake, you fit an extension, either above the top swage or below the drum. To answer your original question, you might be able to run the electric cables down the mast tucked into the corner of the luff groove. use a long screw every 18 inches or so, Inserted through the mast wall, to keep them in the corner. Machine screws would be the better idea, rather than self tappers, so there aren't any sharp edges to wear your cables. This could be a permanent solution with a bit of care! Alternatively - place your VHF antenna on the pushpit and use a mobile anchor light hung in the fore-rigging.

Terrible idea

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Get a rigger to sort out your forestay and fit a halyard diverter and while he's at it run your cable down the inside of the mast and a new masthead light cable.
If possible see if you can watch him do it so you understand what is involved none of is actually difficult.

 

[Captain Crisp]

Get a rigger to sort out your forestay and fit a halyard diverter and while he's at it run your cable down the inside of the mast and a new masthead light cable.
If possible see if you can watch him do it so you understand what is involved none of is actually difficult.

Funnily enough, I've just arranged everything you've suggested (except for being able to watch him at work - sadly not possible)

 

[Poignard]

The tang to which the backstay is attached looks as if it might have a crack.

It may just be a dirty mark but worth checking.

My Twister had an identical mast to yours and the tang to which the forestay attaches had crack half way across. Fortunately it was spotted in time.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

That looks most like a dirty mark, but any good rigger would surely notice if it was worse. A call, before he sees the mast and he’d have a look properly.