kunyang
Well-Known Member
Is this easy to do, I've got to get this done before the boat goes back, and I would prefer to do it myself.
Dave
Dave
Repacking a stern gland
- Thread starter kunyang
- Start date
Spyro
Well-Known Member
johnalison
Well-Known Member
If you've got enough room to fit a Volvo cuff, do so as it will bring an end to your problems almost for ever.
Poignard
Well-Known Member
The job is not difficult, in theory, but can become so due to difficult access, corroded parts or previous repairer's botch-ups! Give yourself a better chance by ensuring you have a good light, decent tools and try to get yourself in a comfortable position to do the work [if possible].
moody1
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Is this easy to do, I've got to get this done before the boat goes back, and I would prefer to do it myself.
Dave
[/ QUOTE ]
HWMBO did ours on the mooring while afloat.
He prepared first by cutting 3 new sections of packing - using the shaft ahead of the gland for template. He had bent nail to hook out old and plmbers grips for nut, blunt chisel and hammer to loosen nut at first.
So before undoing nut - he pumped in loads of grease via the greaser till it oozed out of front of gland.
Undid both lock-nut and primary nut. Slid those fwd. Hooked out first packing piece and compared length to new ones ready to go in, as well as size. He then hooked out all other packing pieces.
Even now no water was coming into boat, based on he'd pumped in enough grease to effectively plug the shaft.
He then packed each ring into the housing with a little dab of grease smeared all over each, making sure each piece joint was at different position on shaft to others. Using the head of the nail he patted the packing in to settle even.
Replaced nuts and did them hand-tight + 1/4 turn. We then ran motor ahead and astern to bed the packing in. Water only then started to drip in as the grease was disturbed by shaft turning. He then then nipped up the gland nut another 1/2 turn and that's how it's been all this season.
We keep it so that we have a drip every few seconds while in use, he makes 1 turn of greaser before we set off and 2 turns of greaser before leaving boat after use. That last bit ensures bilge stays dry till our return.
Of course - you boat may not be so accommodating in this work.
Is this easy to do, I've got to get this done before the boat goes back, and I would prefer to do it myself.
Dave
[/ QUOTE ]
HWMBO did ours on the mooring while afloat.
He prepared first by cutting 3 new sections of packing - using the shaft ahead of the gland for template. He had bent nail to hook out old and plmbers grips for nut, blunt chisel and hammer to loosen nut at first.
So before undoing nut - he pumped in loads of grease via the greaser till it oozed out of front of gland.
Undid both lock-nut and primary nut. Slid those fwd. Hooked out first packing piece and compared length to new ones ready to go in, as well as size. He then hooked out all other packing pieces.
Even now no water was coming into boat, based on he'd pumped in enough grease to effectively plug the shaft.
He then packed each ring into the housing with a little dab of grease smeared all over each, making sure each piece joint was at different position on shaft to others. Using the head of the nail he patted the packing in to settle even.
Replaced nuts and did them hand-tight + 1/4 turn. We then ran motor ahead and astern to bed the packing in. Water only then started to drip in as the grease was disturbed by shaft turning. He then then nipped up the gland nut another 1/2 turn and that's how it's been all this season.
We keep it so that we have a drip every few seconds while in use, he makes 1 turn of greaser before we set off and 2 turns of greaser before leaving boat after use. That last bit ensures bilge stays dry till our return.
Of course - you boat may not be so accommodating in this work.
kunyang
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, I think I'll have a go
Dave
Dave
roger
Well-Known Member
Like most jobs on the boat, you end up standing on your head.
To do it effectively you must have a nice smooth prop shaft. If it is rough or ridged you may end up as badly off as before.
It is however a fairly quick job to do - if access is ok.
I'm old and fat, did it once and decided not to do it again. Instead I bought a Stopelo rubber and graphite seal from the nice chandlers close to the Dunkirk Yacht Club and later bought a second one as a spare.
Fitting the thing was easy and it has given no trouble in about 7000 miles. The cost was I think round about the £100 mark in 2001.
It needs no maintenance at all and obviates the greaser entirely.
The only snag I can see is that you may forget to flood the seal when the boat goes in the water and after beaching her. If you do that the temperature goes up and the rubber melts to be quickly quenched as the water floods in. So far I have remembered to flood the seal - so far.
To do it effectively you must have a nice smooth prop shaft. If it is rough or ridged you may end up as badly off as before.
It is however a fairly quick job to do - if access is ok.
I'm old and fat, did it once and decided not to do it again. Instead I bought a Stopelo rubber and graphite seal from the nice chandlers close to the Dunkirk Yacht Club and later bought a second one as a spare.
Fitting the thing was easy and it has given no trouble in about 7000 miles. The cost was I think round about the £100 mark in 2001.
It needs no maintenance at all and obviates the greaser entirely.
The only snag I can see is that you may forget to flood the seal when the boat goes in the water and after beaching her. If you do that the temperature goes up and the rubber melts to be quickly quenched as the water floods in. So far I have remembered to flood the seal - so far.
