removing the core out of rope

[simonfraser]

i need to remove the core out of the first 8meters of 21m of rope, for a furling line

do i "just" pull the 8m back over the core, sounds like hard work, or is there a better way ??

many thanks, S

 

[Strathglass]

Go to 8 metres from the end of the rope. Tease a loop of the core out through the outer covering.

Then pull the core out at this loop.

By doing this as you are pulling, the outer becomes compressed and will expand slightly making the task possible.

Cheers

Iain

 

[simonfraser]

thanks, there had to be a trick for it

 

[tome]

If you seal the end before teasing out the loop it will help to expand the core, then once you have about 0.5m loop chop the end clean. Once the core has disappeared you can re-seal the end of the sheath

 

[MoodySabre]

I've got to replace my furling line. Am I being dense in not knowing why you are removing to core from some of it /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[simonfraser]

you can use a larger diameter rope to pull, easier on the hands, the bit to be wound round the drum does not have a core and is thinner and thus still "fits"

 

[CodStewart]

Tee hee. It's hard work and you'll need lots of space, like um, a plane runway. May I suggest you wear some heavy duty gloves, too.

 

[CodStewart]

Wow, that's a great way to do it. When I helped with this task - ouch and 'are we there yet?'- we were pulling from the end and then doing all sorts of strange things but your method appears to be far more practical.
Ta.

 

[MoodySabre]

Thanks for that - Presumably the bit left is still strong enough. I'll give that some thought. What size rope did you use?

 

[Strathglass]

I am quite surprised that you want to retain the outer. What type of rope are you using?

I have used tapered ropes for spinaker sheets before, but, I have retained the inner as it is usually stronger than the outer.

I used rope which had a high tech inner rope about 6mm and an outer sheath of about 8mm.

This allowed the 6mm to take the strain and the 8mm to hold on.

Cheers

Iain

 

[simonfraser]

hmmm, sounds ok, but the transition from outer to inner is going to be trouble ??
running through the blocks etc, how do you deal with that part

as a v. rough guess the outer sheath on 6mm rope has got to be good for a few 100 kg's, plenty for a furler - not a reefing head sail

 

[Strathglass]

There is special rope made for this specific purpose by Marlow.

I will have a look tomorrow and see if I can find the details.

I may also have some.

It has something like a vectra or dvnema core which is sheathed and comes inside the outer sheath.

The inner core is as strong as normal , thicker ropes.

They must be sewn together at the join.

I am sure the rope I have is pink. It was NOT innexpensive.

It was specifically designed for dinghy use.

I'll get back to you tomorrow.

Cheers

Iain

 

[Jonny_H]

I would not use the outer core - definately the inner - the inner is designed to take all the load, the outer just takes the wear of the cleats and blocks etc.

You should only remove the outer from a dynema cored rope (this has a plaited core) cheaper rope has a twisted core and will be no good.

Also, to get a smooth transition between the two sections, you can splice the outer back inside the inner part at the join, this makes a very smooth transition.

This is the way kite sheets and trapeze lines are done on dinghies.

As Iain said, you can get special rope for tapered sheets which is effectively a thin diameter spectra rope with an additional outer layer. This is good, but not needed if the exposed inner part will not be subject to chaff from cleats.

Jonny