Remote Steering question from a yachtie that's just bought his first outboard

[DaveParry]

Okay, this is going to be a daft question to many and for that I apologise. I've been sailing yachts and dinghies for years, but I know precious little about outboards. I've now bought my first little cabin cruiser to take the kids fishing, pop round to the beach round the corner and all that.

I first bought a boat without an engine off EBay, and I now have an engine without a boat. The problems have arisen in trying to marry the two up (rigging the engine I believe it is called?).

The control lines for throttle and gears are fine but the remote steering has thrown me. The boat came with a wheel and remote lines already connected. I have mounted the outboard on the transom and connected them up. However, the travel on the installed steering is quite a bit less than would be required for lock to lock movement of the outboard. I can probably get +45deg to -20deg. I also can not seem to centre it without siting the engine off centre, which doesn't seem like a good idea.

Do I have to buy a new remote steering system with more travel? Clearly it worked for the previous owner?

Also, the engine has two screws to clamp it on to the transom, but it is a 40HP Mariner and weighs about 80kg - does that sound enough? There are no other mounting holes on the boat (a 17' Seamaster), but there are holes on the engine mounting bracket. Should an engine of that size be more securely mounted than that, or am I being over-cautious? Should I drill through the transom plate and bolt through?

Thanks for looking after a lost yachtie who's strayed in to the motor boat forum for the first time...

 

[Searush]

I'm also a Raggie, (& no experience of any O/B over 10hp) but an obvious question jumps up at me. Have you tried centreing the wheel before connecting up the steering wires? It sounds as tho you either have a full turn or 2 off centre, or one of the wires has jumped off the steering drum.

Look under the dash, on the steering post there will probably be a drum with the steering wires wrapped around it. Make sure this has an equal length of both port & starboard wires on it. this should then mean that you can mount the engine properly.

Engine does need to be in the centre of the transom & 2 clamps is the normal way of fastening them on, but anti-theft devices might be a good idea plus maybe a safety wire "just in case", but hopefully you would notice if it was vibrating itself off the transom anyway.

 

[prv]

Have you tried centreing the wheel before connecting up the steering wires? It sounds as tho you either have a full turn or 2 off centre, or one of the wires has jumped off the steering drum.

I doubt it's a wires-and-drum mechanism, though I suppose it could be. More likely to be a hefty morse cable that pushes and pulls. Sounds to me like maybe the old engine had its steering connection on the other side, but I'm just guessing. Can the base of the steering arm be unbolted and remounted further to one side to compensate?

2 clamps is the normal way of fastening them on

Only for ickle engines like we use on our tenders. Bigger ones are normally bolted. 40hp is probably on the border between the two.

Pete

 

[macnorton]

I would bolt the engine on with large washers inboard and slightly (5mm?) off-centre (to the stbd for LH prop and to the port for a RH prop), this is to counter "prop walk".
I would centre the engine and steering and make a bracket to connect the two with the pivot bolt located nearer to the engine pivot than it is at present, if you have cable steering this may not be up to the power you have, Teleflex would be better suted.

 

[Spi D]

Until we know what kind of boat, engine and steering you are trying to mate, advice is a bit hard. Pictures would help..

Steering may be wire, cable or hydraulic - at least.
Most parts are standard but not all. Depending on engine size and boat speed, the torque may put a lot of stress on things and it is crucial that all holds up so you stay in control.

Keep in mind that steering layout must allow engine to be tilted


Talking about it: Engine legs come in more lengths to fit different transom heights. Did you get that right?

 

[DaveParry]

You're right prv, it's a hefty cable that pushes and pulls (Morse cable?). I think you've also cracked it - the previous engine must have had the bracket offset.

So I can try to work out how to move the bracket or offset the cable end bracket. This still doesn't fix the short travel problem. Maybe the old engine had a bracket closer to the turning axis? Either way it sounds like I almost need a new rig entirely?

Will try to get photos, but it's pitch black out now (and covered in snow).

 

[DaveParry]

Here's the engine mounting question:


And here's the steering travel/offset question:


Thanks again for any advice...

 

[Spi D]

Your leg is too long. Although the engine is mounted on a piece that positions the bracket a good bit above the original transom, the prop still sits way too low. Potential issue is too much drag and wrong load on transom. Will work as is, though.

Your steering seems close to OK. The position of the cable is not right - the outer cable that now ends inside the boat should protrude into the engine well. If you loosen the cable from the bracket, center the wheel and then center the engine, you'll see where the outer cable needs to be positioined to allow equal movement to both sides.

Different boat but shows how things are supposed to interact when wheel and engine are in centered position:

Edit: If the extra piece on your transom is removed, to accommodate right leg length, the point of cable connection will move down accordingly and improve steering geometry & accuracy.
Right leg length means a different motor. Alteration of existing leg is not a viable solution due to cost and effort. Note that standard leg increment is 5" (15", 20" and 25" available but not in all hp sizes)

 

[DaveParry]

Thanks Spi D - very helpful. Looks like I need a different outboard then. The measurement required in your drawing above is 17", which indicates a short shaft, and I have a long shaft. Back to EBay then...

 

[Spi D]

The engine will work as is, but since anything on the water needs to be in best possible order I'd look to get the boat back to original specs.
Boat builders know the rig lengths so 17 sounds strange. Do check accurately how 15" or 20" measures (from point of original engine mount to a line extended from the bottom/keel (blue in pic))

Once engine is sorted the steering can be dealt with. If things are mechanically OK that bit should be adjustment only (ie, no cost).

 

[Spi D]

Another note when you look for engine: Rule of thumb says not to go below 75-80% of max recommended hp if you want to enjoy the properties the boat was designed for.

 

[rosssavage]

...and PLEASE bolt it on!! thumbscrews are not enough, and should be restricted to 10hp or less, IMHO.

 

[ash12]

Yea really needs bolting on, my 25 was bolted with 4 big stainless bolts through the transom.

 

[DaveParry]

Quick update from IP having launched yesterday for the first time. Engine boosted on with 4 off S/S M10 bolts - feels much more secure. Solved the steering offset by drilling a new hole for the bracket about 1" to the side of the existing one.

Launched, motored around at 15kts and recovered fine.

What was interesting is how little angle is needed to pull quite a tight turn. I guess as it banks in to be turn that helps. In total I would say about half the travel in each direction gave quite a tight turn - 20deg perhaps.

Thanks all for advice.