Cardo
Well-Known Member
Our solar panels come with the standard connectors. Could someone recommend what deck connector to use with these?
Recommend a deck plug for solar panels
- Thread starter Cardo
- Start date
VicS
Well-Known Member
I'd not use a deck plug. (I haven't used a deck plug)
I do for things that are regularly or even periodically disconnected but I'd regard a solar panel as a fixed installation that will only need to be disconnected when it is defunct and needs to be replaced
nedmin
Well-Known Member
As Vic S said why use a plug it will only give problems later.I cut the supplied plug off connected the 4mm cable to the solar panel with a good quality screw connector,I cut each wire long enough so that they sat on top of one another,(not keen on crimped) lathered this in silicon grease then wrapped with self amalgamating (wow thats a big word!) rubber tape.I then ran the cable thro a waterproof gland to the controller.I was lucky as I didnt have to drill the roof but drilled the side of the saloon.I hate drilling holes in roofs. I am extremely pleased with the solar panels 2x80watts.Maximum amps has been 10amps.Even on a dull day it reads just under 3amps.Only disadvantage is that you have to check battery levels more regularly.
Cardo
Well-Known Member
Ok, please forgive my ignorance. Obviously, the cables need to come into the boat somehow. Nedmin mentions a gland. What do you mean by that?
prv
Well-Known Member
For example:
The hole is the same size as (or just slightly smaller than) the cable. You run the cable through the hole, then do up the three screws which pull the top and bottom halves of the metal together. This squeezes the rubber, which tightens around the cable forming a watertight seal.
Pete
Cardo
Well-Known Member
For example:
The hole is the same size as (or just slightly smaller than) the cable. You run the cable through the hole, then do up the three screws which pull the top and bottom halves of the metal together. This squeezes the rubber, which tightens around the cable forming a watertight seal.
Pete
Ah, I getcha. In that case, I have a mixture of glands and plugs at the base of the mast where the various cables go into the boat. Lights and VHF use plugs, whilst windvane and radar use glands.
Why is a gland recommended over a plug?
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Reliability and cost. Plugs and sockets may be marginally more water resistant now than in the past but the good ones are expensive and some, e.g. Dri-plugs, which I have found to be excellent, take up a lot of space. You can buy a gland that will take a large number of wires, just drill your own holes. You can then connect the wires below deck using chocolate blocks. My boat was built like that in 1985, all mast instrumentation and lighting still operating perfectly.
prv
Well-Known Member
Usually considered more waterproof. In some cases, the cable isn't cut at all, in others the connection is at least made below deck where it's supposedly dry.
If carrying RF energy (VHF, old-style radars) then a plug will also absorb some of it, so a single run of wire all the way to the machine is a good thing if it can be arranged.
Personally I have no problem with good-quality deck plugs.
Pete
Tranona
Well-Known Member
because you can make the connections inside in the dry. They are also less prone to getting kicked etc. Most sensible way of dealing with Solar panel cables if it is a fixed installations. You can, of course disconnect and withdraw the cable if you need to. Sensible to replace your mast lights and VHF connections with a gland, if you have a long enough tail to make the connection inside. If you are going to use plugs, Bulgin are probably the best. Avoid those old fashioned metal ones which are usually poorly made and can suffer from corrosion.
VicS
Well-Known Member
There was nice deck gland pictured on a post recently that was a sort of squat dome shape with the cable entry parallel with the deck
Sorry no link but I remember thinking I wish I'd fitted one of those instead of the more conventional type.
Hairy
Active Member
Try googling "Index Marine Side Entry Cable Gland" this allows you to get the cable inside without it sticking up in the air like a conventional cable gland.
Looks neater and less vulnerable IMHO.
Looks neater and less vulnerable IMHO.
VicS
Well-Known Member
Hairy
Active Member
I wish I knew how to post pictures!
rob2
Well-Known Member
Every connection in a cable will produce a loss, so a continuous cable is preferrable - especially with a solar panel in UK sunshine! I don't know what plug you have on your panel's wiring - there is no standard. Wherever you are mounting the panel, it would be best to route the cable to avoid any risk of tripping or snagging, which may mean entering the boat through the deck, cockpit coaming, cockpit side, etc. and these may be at any angle. Unless you're very fortunate, a deck connector is likely to present a trip hazard anyway, so a gland or other method may be preferrable.
When I mounted a wind generator I was very lucky that the cable came out of the bottom of the pole right on the boat's quarter and there was a redundant deck gland already there. The cable used was as large as could reasonably be found (for minimal resistive losses) and routed through the cockpit locker to the charge controller on the engine bulkhead.
Rob.
When I mounted a wind generator I was very lucky that the cable came out of the bottom of the pole right on the boat's quarter and there was a redundant deck gland already there. The cable used was as large as could reasonably be found (for minimal resistive losses) and routed through the cockpit locker to the charge controller on the engine bulkhead.
Rob.
alan
Well-Known Member
Solar Panel Connectors
I have used Bulgin two wire connectors which I bought from Index marine. I have always sealed up the cable entry side of the connectors with self-amalgamating tape (but the connectors come with a rubber grommet so shouldn't need the tape!).
There are other cable glands which you can get from Index Marine which are less intrusive than the Bulgin ones.
I do not necessarily agree with the statement that solar panels "are a permanent installation" as I have my panels mounted on my Bimini and I normally remove the Bimini and the panels for the winter; so having a connector makes it easy to remove the panels. Also why should a good quality plug and socket give problems later if properly made and used with the correct cable size for the rubber grommett?
Alan.
I have used Bulgin two wire connectors which I bought from Index marine. I have always sealed up the cable entry side of the connectors with self-amalgamating tape (but the connectors come with a rubber grommet so shouldn't need the tape!).
There are other cable glands which you can get from Index Marine which are less intrusive than the Bulgin ones.
I do not necessarily agree with the statement that solar panels "are a permanent installation" as I have my panels mounted on my Bimini and I normally remove the Bimini and the panels for the winter; so having a connector makes it easy to remove the panels. Also why should a good quality plug and socket give problems later if properly made and used with the correct cable size for the rubber grommett?
Alan.
VicS
Well-Known Member
I googled as you suggested
One of the hits was Force4's webpage with this on.
I right clicked on the image and then clicked on "copy image URL"
I compiled my post until I got to where I wanted the image to appear.
I clicked on the "insert image" icon
Now you'll say, "What Insert image icon ?"
If you dont have one above the text entry box you need to go into your User CP go to "Settings and Options and "Edit Options".
In the last section you will find the option to change the "Message editor interface". Change it to Standard editor. Save the change.
You will now have a whole load of new bells a whistles to play with
andygc
Well-Known Member
I'm curious about this too as I have recently bought a flexible panel to get out when in harbour or at anchor. We have no room for permanent panels. Trouble is, we need a deck plug, not a deck socket, since it is a pretty bad idea to have a plug with exposed pins on the end of the cable from the panel. So far I haven't found a waterproof deck plug. Any ideas?. Otherwise it'll be a trailing lead through the fore hatch, which I want to avoid.
VicMallows
Well-Known Member
Why?
prv
Well-Known Member
Surely it's an even worse one to have fragile pins sticking up from the deck?
What's wrong with a male plug on the end of the cable?
Pete
