I'm thinking of getting a laptop on board. The boat is a 1979 Nicholson with two batteries. What will be the best way to provide the power needed? Would solar panels be a good addition? We have never had shore power. Ta.
You can either run the laptop via a solid state voltage transformer - which means that the boat batteries supplement the laptop internal batteries. This is not possible with all laptops, ones with the Intel speedstep chip have two different voltages to determine the operating mode.
These can be obtained from RYD Boatowners catalogue tel 01797 270427. Get the output voltage of your laptop transformer.
The alternative is to use an AC/DC transformer to drive your laptop transformer - unless you buy an expensive one that produces clean sine wave you'll only be able to use it to recharge your batteries and, as it uses a fair bit of power, preferably when the engine is running - your solar panel array to run a 140 watt transformer will have to be enormous. If you try and use it with the computer running you're likely to get software/firmware glitches.
The Belkin ones are quite good value for money - try PC World for them.
Your simplest solution is to get what's often called a "car adaptor" - it's a little device which plugs in to a 12v lighter socket and converts the 12v to whatever voltage the laptop needs (often 16-19v). Usually, they offer a range of switchable voltages and a variety of different outlet plugs to suit different laptops. Before buying one, you need to know the operating voltage of the laptop and its current consumption (you'll find this info on the label on the laptop's mains power supply unit). Many laptops will work with a 3.5A adaptor (often called a "70watt") but some need a 4.7A adaptor (often called a "90watt").
You can get these from lots of outlets - dylan recommended Laptopshop, and I'd add a recommendation for EuroBatteries (who incidentally have a superb returns policy). I use a Vanson adaptor (which is what EuroBatteries sell) and it works very well. I've recently seen Vanson adaptors in Maplins at £20 which is good value for a 70watt adaptor.
Bear in mind that these adaptors are going to draw 6-8A from your boat battery, so you'll need to use the laptop sparingly unless you want to keep running the engine to charge the batteries.
I can run my laptop of my 150W cheapo inverter. The biggest problem is trying to receive weather faxes as the inverter creates so much electrical noise. As far as running it without a true sine wave, that has not been a problem.
I now use a car adaptor, DC / DC, although this uses an inverter it is much quieter than the bigger inverter and is easier to use.
If you wish to use the laptop for SSB charts or navtex, I find I also have to switch off the fridge. I could filter the circuit, but it is as easy to press a switch and shut down the fridge for an hour or so when receiving.
Get a laptop which will not ask for 19v like my old one. The car adaptor got hot and the laptop fan warmed the cabin. The laptop itself, I think it ran on 5v, got so hot you had to put a magazine between you and it or it would burn your legs.
When you had finished writing a letter there was not enough power in the battery to enable my printer to work without running the engine. No good if the tide was out.
It finished a battery by repeatedly dropping it to 10v.
Now I use a Psion 5mx. Two double AA batteries last weeks, up to 40 hours total usage.
If you get a DC/DC adaptor make sure you check that it will meet the power requirements of your laptop as well as just the voltage. Many cheap ones can't supply sufficient amps. Kerio Energy Knight (available from Maplins) will work on inputs from 11-15 volts and output 15-24 volts to suit a variety of laptops. Will also produce up to 72 watts continuous which I find matches my IBM Thinkpad just right. Newer laptops need more power so be careful what you buy.
If you have an engine driven generator then don't bother with solar. Unless you leave the boat for long periods and need the batteries trickled to enable engine start. olewill
Have you ever wondered why lap tops run at non standard voltage rates?
Is there some reason why they can't be manufactured to run on the standard 12 volts?
After all, most of us have 12 or 24 volt DC systems on tap, both on land and at sea, 12 volt computing would also reduce the high cost of UPS [uninterrupted power supply] units I suspect.
If someone out there knows the answer to this question, I would love to here it.
A computer will usually need multiple voltages internally, +/-12V and +5V at the least, +3.3V, +1.8V and other lower voltages can be used on the processors and some of the logic. So since you need an internal PSU anyway the external supply voltage is arbitrary. But as you know, the lower the voltage, the higher the current for the same power, so a higher voltage DC supply means it contains less copper and cheaper components than a lower voltage one.
In other words its cheaper for the manufacturer.
I'd like to make a plug for http://www.battery.co.uk They do laptop batteries and dc-dc adaptors. I asked them for a connector for a Dell Inspiron 8600 which nobody can match- all I wanted was the connector to use with my existing dc-dc converter - and the guy sent me the connector with lead that had come off a duff ac adaptor. He put it in a Jiffy bag and posted it first class without asking for a penny. Obviously nice people to do business with.
I've got an old Toshiba Satellite Pro with a draw of just over 13V .. I just cut the adapter off attached a 12v plug and run directly from the boat electrics.
For Hewlett Packard laptops (Omnibook/Pavillion) requiring 19volts then the DC/DC converter is the F1455a airline/auto model. See them on E-bay for about £20.
Do you have an AC to DC converter powering up the laptop or is it directly connected to the 240 volt mains? (I suspect the former).
What model laptop is it?
If the "laptop" says 20volts input and you stick 24volts up its jacksee then you might do some damage; on the other hand the laptop might just be able to cope. If it was me then I wouldn't risk it.
These figures you have given, they are on the ac power supply, not on the laptop itself, I presume? In which case yes, you can plug the supply into your 110V inverter. You can also use a 20V dc supply as long as it will give 3.5A. I wouldn't recommend using your +24 V raw - don't forget that this will be 28V or more at times anyway. You can get 12V dc-dc convertors and there have been links in this thread, but I don't know about 24V. Presumably you can, for the truck market, but maybe they are more expensive as the market is smaller?
I am not quite clear on the electrics issue, but 3.5A is the indication of the current required, and if I deliver 20v 20A, it will not matter as it will only draw 3.5A? In other words it is the voltage, and minimum number of amps that matters?
Trying to make sence of boat electrics with a manual by Wing (i think)
www.alfatronix.co.uk do 12 to 24 and 24 to 12 but not 24 to 24 - as far as I can see.
Easiest and safest way to do what you want is an inexpensive inverter. Power losses are small; my experience of a 12V car adaptor was that it got quite hot (hotter than the 240V AC model) which indicates inefficient operation.
Yes, 3.5A is the current required at 20V - i.e. 70Watts. Since your power supply will work with your 110V inverter, I suggest that you do it that way. As True Blue says, you probably won't gain much extra efficiency even if you do use a 24V to 20V dc-dc converter.