Seastoke
Well-Known Member
So with it i have 5 sponge attachments and a big tub of farcela. After wasing the boat what is the best procedures and what sponges or should i go for lambs wool
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Thanks mate what is foam grade , mine go from coarse ,firm,medium, soft and ultra soft.what kit did you get ?
There is usually colored sponges going from course to fine.
depends son how bad the area is to be polished, choose foam grade and fine spray a sqm area with water then apply cream to sponge and polish away. slow`ish speed around 800rpm to start.
it just grade like sand paper. some manufacturuers use sponge colour for there grades so you know which is which. some mark the pads so soft to firm.Thanks mate what is foam grade , mine go from coarse ,firm,medium, soft and ultra soft.
Paint is much thinner and cars much smaller. Dual action for cars. Rotary for boats.No idea on boat polishing but for car polishing clay bar the vehicle clean and lubricate the polishing pad.
A Lambswool mop is the best for sure but these will create more heat so be careful as the inexperienced can do a world of damage in no time. Also be careful that the inner rubber holder of the mop head, doesn’t cut through the mop if you’ve applied too much pressure as again, this will burn through your gelcoat in a split second.
Sponges for the inexperienced are the safer way to learn your craft then progress to a lambswool mop once you are comfortable.
Make sure the area you are polishing is clean first and mask up any adjoining surfaces and especially the trackmark (mottled grippy gelcoat), as that looks horrid if you gloss the edges over as you’ll never get it back.
Don’t use too much polish and you can add a fine mist of water but its not essential. The surface will come up very quickly so don’t overpolish it as you are removing gel. And make sure if you are finishing with a finer compound that you leave a little lustre to find on that last process so again, you are not removing more gel than you need too. Finish with a cream / sealer to close the open pores off and you’ll have a good few seasons with it looking great again before you need go at it again.
Oh, and wear ear plugs
Happy polishing.
Yes indeed. I’m a nightmare for not doing so but on occasion have regretted it !to all of that. But plus glasses. Even before ear plugs.
Foam heads are for compounding, courser the more aggressive, as per wet and dry.
Lambswool is for finishing, but can be used with compound, with care.
Don't let either dry out, a spray bottle of water is a good idea.
Waffle sponge pads are best and the compound does the cutting, the pads are simply carriers.
Yes Dino, Menzerna is for me the best there is, with Maguires coming a very close second.I’m with Falcoron on the Menzerna. I use Menzerna 400 on a rotary polisher with a lambswool pad for heavily oxidised areas. The only problem with wool on a rotary is that it causes swirl marks and holograms. They need to be polished out with a foam pad. For medium oxidised surfaces I use Menzerna 400 on a fairly hard foam pad on a DA Polisher. It polishes out really well as the particles break down as it’s used. It’s also very easy to remove. Then I run over it with a finer polish, clean the surface and seal with Menzerna Powerlock instead of a wax. Way easier to apply and remove.
I use 3m perfect-it on vintage and classic car restoration, works superbly too, ( Rolls Royce and Bentley do too, so very highly recommended)I've not tried Menzerna. Typically use 3M Perfect-It & Finesse It, Farecla G3 & G10, Autosmart Evo 6 & 3 depending on the level of oxidisation or if it's a painted or lacquered finish. I have a couple of Mirka 77mm DAs for edges and smaller areas and also are great for radomes etc.