Polisher , please read,polishing with dewalt

Seastoke

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So with it i have 5 sponge attachments and a big tub of farcela. After wasing the boat what is the best procedures and what sponges or should i go for lambs wool
 
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what kit did you get ?
There is usually colored sponges going from course to fine.
depends son how bad the area is to be polished, choose foam grade and fine spray a sqm area with water then apply cream to sponge and polish away. slow`ish speed around 800rpm to start.
 
what kit did you get ?
There is usually colored sponges going from course to fine.
depends son how bad the area is to be polished, choose foam grade and fine spray a sqm area with water then apply cream to sponge and polish away. slow`ish speed around 800rpm to start.
Thanks mate what is foam grade , mine go from coarse ,firm,medium, soft and ultra soft.
 
Thanks mate what is foam grade , mine go from coarse ,firm,medium, soft and ultra soft.
it just grade like sand paper. some manufacturuers use sponge colour for there grades so you know which is which. some mark the pads so soft to firm.

when doing it if deep scratrches then course and then medium etc. BUT dont polish small areas. do a larger aea than the arae you want to do. also dont stop the sponge in one place, keep it moving.
 
I've worked on the assumption wool for a cutting compound and foam for a polish, not sure where I saw that but probably a youtube channel.

Having said that I never got on well with a rotary polisher, once a year meant I never got enough practice and struggled with swirl marks so I swapped to a dual action polisher and like that much better, went cordless at the same time and that again is much easier not messing with a power cable.
 
A Lambswool mop is the best for sure but these will create more heat so be careful as the inexperienced can do a world of damage in no time. Also be careful that the inner rubber holder of the mop head, doesn’t cut through the mop if you’ve applied too much pressure as again, this will burn through your gelcoat in a split second.

Sponges for the inexperienced are the safer way to learn your craft then progress to a lambswool mop once you are comfortable.

Make sure the area you are polishing is clean first and mask up any adjoining surfaces and especially the trackmark (mottled grippy gelcoat), as that looks horrid if you gloss the edges over as you’ll never get it back.

Don’t use too much polish and you can add a fine mist of water but its not essential. The surface will come up very quickly so don’t overpolish it as you are removing gel. And make sure if you are finishing with a finer compound that you leave a little lustre to find on that last process so again, you are not removing more gel than you need too. Finish with a cream / sealer to close the open pores off and you’ll have a good few seasons with it looking great again before you need go at it again.

Oh, and wear ear plugs

Happy polishing.
 
A Lambswool mop is the best for sure but these will create more heat so be careful as the inexperienced can do a world of damage in no time. Also be careful that the inner rubber holder of the mop head, doesn’t cut through the mop if you’ve applied too much pressure as again, this will burn through your gelcoat in a split second.

Sponges for the inexperienced are the safer way to learn your craft then progress to a lambswool mop once you are comfortable.

Make sure the area you are polishing is clean first and mask up any adjoining surfaces and especially the trackmark (mottled grippy gelcoat), as that looks horrid if you gloss the edges over as you’ll never get it back.

Don’t use too much polish and you can add a fine mist of water but its not essential. The surface will come up very quickly so don’t overpolish it as you are removing gel. And make sure if you are finishing with a finer compound that you leave a little lustre to find on that last process so again, you are not removing more gel than you need too. Finish with a cream / sealer to close the open pores off and you’ll have a good few seasons with it looking great again before you need go at it again.

Oh, and wear ear plugs

Happy polishing.
👍to all of that. But plus glasses. Even before ear plugs.
 
Foam heads are for compounding, courser the more aggressive, as per wet and dry.
Lambswool is for finishing, but can be used with compound, with care.

Don't let either dry out, a spray bottle of water is a good idea.
 
I'd start with testing, the finest polish/compound first. No reason to use the more agressive if the surface doesn't call for it.

Farecla and other manufacturers normally have instructions on the procedure (manual/machine, rpm). I personally find dual action polishers better than rotary, esp. cordless.

For my needs a compound that is semi-coarse and then becomes finer during use does it. This compund as step one every other year, then followed by a good wax for protection. The years in betweenit is the wax only as it has bretty good cleaning properies.
 
Foam heads are for compounding, courser the more aggressive, as per wet and dry.
Lambswool is for finishing, but can be used with compound, with care.

Don't let either dry out, a spray bottle of water is a good idea.

Foam heads are for compounding, polishing & finishing. Lambswool is for compounding & polishing and not finishing.

Waffle sponge pads are best and the compound does the cutting, the pads are simply carriers.

Waffle sponge pads come in compound / polishing / finishing grades as the pad is more than just a carrier.
 
Faecla is great but messy and clogs up the pad really fast, and you need to spray water from time to time to keep lubricated.
There are more modern compounds for gel coat like Maguires, 3M and Menzerna ( best there is imho) these cut really well and they breakdown into finer and finer medium with lubricating oils to leave shiny, no water required and they clean off really easy from the area so less clean-up, you don,t need to use as much either.
lambs wool is the fastest cut, then use compounding, polishing and finishing sponges in that order with any of the above ranges for a great finish.
3M are all colour coded so, for example the green compound you use a green sponge pad, yellow then blue for polish and finish etc.
Im going to use Menzerna cutting (for gelcoat) compound after i get something to wash and clean the grime off mine first.
Just reading reviews on the new Maguires gel coat compound and that reads really well and came top of the lot for results, easy to use and a breeze tp clean up after
 
I’m with Falcoron on the Menzerna. I use Menzerna 400 on a rotary polisher with a lambswool pad for heavily oxidised areas. The only problem with wool on a rotary is that it causes swirl marks and holograms. They need to be polished out with a foam pad. For medium oxidised surfaces I use Menzerna 400 on a fairly hard foam pad on a DA Polisher. It polishes out really well as the particles break down as it’s used. It’s also very easy to remove. Then I run over it with a finer polish, clean the surface and seal with Menzerna Powerlock instead of a wax. Way easier to apply and remove.
 
I’m with Falcoron on the Menzerna. I use Menzerna 400 on a rotary polisher with a lambswool pad for heavily oxidised areas. The only problem with wool on a rotary is that it causes swirl marks and holograms. They need to be polished out with a foam pad. For medium oxidised surfaces I use Menzerna 400 on a fairly hard foam pad on a DA Polisher. It polishes out really well as the particles break down as it’s used. It’s also very easy to remove. Then I run over it with a finer polish, clean the surface and seal with Menzerna Powerlock instead of a wax. Way easier to apply and remove.
Yes Dino, Menzerna is for me the best there is, with Maguires coming a very close second.
I really like the Maguires compounding pad too, cuts well and leaves swirl free for easy polishing off.
Lambswool for the experienced only not for beginner's, you can do a lot of damage by over heating and burning the coat.

Always slow with even pressure for compounding and go "slightly" faster and lighter for polishing and finishing.
Practise on an unseen area first to get a feel.
 
I've not tried Menzerna. Typically use 3M Perfect-It & Finesse It, Farecla G3 & G10, Autosmart Evo 6 & 3 depending on the level of oxidisation or if it's a painted or lacquered finish. I have a couple of Mirka 77mm DAs for edges and smaller areas and also are great for radomes etc.
 
I've not tried Menzerna. Typically use 3M Perfect-It & Finesse It, Farecla G3 & G10, Autosmart Evo 6 & 3 depending on the level of oxidisation or if it's a painted or lacquered finish. I have a couple of Mirka 77mm DAs for edges and smaller areas and also are great for radomes etc.
I use 3m perfect-it on vintage and classic car restoration, works superbly too, ( Rolls Royce and Bentley do too, so very highly recommended)
Menzerna was recommended by a mate who does similar work and i find it has a faster cut, is easier clean up and uses a lot less product. Maguires have come on strongly too with the easiest clean up and streak free finishes.
All on car bodies you understand i've not tackled my very dull Broom 35 yet. :)
 
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