You should be able to see it at the burner & trace it back to the valve. You can easily remove the drip tray (top of the cooker) on most gas hobs; & that should make it really easy to see what is going on. You may need to lift off the burners & remove any pan clamps first tho'. Not a hard job to do, just a screw fitting at either end. They are designed to be gas tight when tightened up, but a small smear of the relevant calor sealant will not go amiss.
The problem with having an all singing & dancing boat is that summat always needs fixing - still keeps you both out of mischief I guess, good luck, Steve K
The thing thats got me beat on that site is, they mention a "Vertical Hotplate Burner". Surely it's not vertical, or the kettle would fall off, anyway mine seems to be horizontal most of the time. But nothing is mentioned of this.
By the way, Tom and the Major are in Holyhead scoffing curry and worrying about the F5/6 tomorrow. Told them there a load of puffs and to get on with it!!
Anyway, we've joined the ditch crawlers on the Lancaster canal now, if we could get far enough up it, we'd be at the bottom of our garden. Not sure we'd make the first ten yards though!!
How about if it is the thermocouple that is vertical?
F5/6 shouldn't be much problem to Littleship - might slow her down a bit
Just need to avoid overfalls & wind over tide situations in that area.
MF as a canal boat - now that is an image, might have to take a good run at the 7' wide locks mind. How do them megga engines cope with 4kts all day long?
If Little Ship slowed down anymore, she'd be going backwards.
The locks are actually 14ft wide, so are the bridges. But only for about two feet up, then they curve in,, MF's deck would not clear the bridges, never mind the rest. Our deck is the same hight as the roof of the narrow boat infront, then course we have two decks above.!! Not forgetting the radar arch.
MF is very good natured and would cope fine. Might be nearer 5/6 knots tho...... and lots of smoke. Apparently the first bit is quite deap. Theres a mate coming down and says it's quite deap in the middle, at first. I'll have a go at the first bridge. Dont think theres a hope.
From t' manuel for the 2500 (same as far as I can tell):
MAINTENANCE
Before attempting any maintenance work make sure that the gas supply is turned off at
the cylinder and disconnected from the unit. If the spillage tray is removed care must be
taken to ensure that the gas joints are not stressed as this may result in a gas leak. NO
GAS JOINT SHOULD BE BROKEN.
To Remove a Spillage Tray
v Remove the tap knobs by pulling straight forward.
v Release the locknuts on the front facia and remove the facia panel.
v Unscrew the 4 pan support studs.
v If the model has a grill, some form of support (e.g. a towel) should be placed in the grill
compartment to provide support for the burners.
v Release the socket screw on the side of the burner and remove the enamel cap.
v Remove the 3 screws per burner.
v Remove the 2 screws supporting the grill (if present).
v Remove the screw on the back lip of the spillage tray in the left hand corner.
v The spillage tray can then be lifted clear.
To Replace a Hob Thermocouple
v Remove the spillage tray as explained above.
v Release the thermocouple from the back of the tap.
v Release the nut holding the thermocouple into the burner.
v The new thermocouple can then be bent to shape and the process reversed.
To Replace a Grill Thermocouple
v Remove the spillage tray as explained above.
v Release the thermocouple from the rear of the tap.
v Disconnect the probe form the grill hood and remove.
v Fit the new thermocouple ensuring the tip of the probe is in line or slightly above the holes in
the grill tube and no further than 4 mm away.
Couldn't get the grub screw out of the burner caps on ours but they prised off & went back on ok.
Can you do it while you're still oop north, though. (I don't like loud bangs).
Must've rained a bit since I was last up at the Lancaster canal: