Perspex Washboards...

Mark-1

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I'm thinking I turn up at somewhere that sells perspex with my old washboard to use as a template. Then they cut it to shape and I take it away and file the edges down or somesuch? Is that that the best way to do the job? Or can they cut it so the edges are 'nice'? Is that the workflow or is there a better way to end up with a perspex washboard?

My reasons for going for perspex are so I never have to replace them again, and so I don't need to varnish them. (I also suspect getting the edges nice on sawn plywood is a nightmare.) Sound logic?

Anyone suggest a good source of perspex near Chichester?

TIA.
 
I'm thinking I turn up at somewhere that sells perspex with my old washboard to use as a template. Then they cut it to shape and I take it away and file the edges down or somesuch? Is that that the best way to do the job? Or can they cut it so the edges are 'nice'? Is that the workflow or is there a better way to end up with a perspex washboard?

My reasons for going for perspex are so I never have to replace them again, and so I don't need to varnish them. (I also suspect getting the edges nice on sawn plywood is a nightmare.) Sound logic?

Anyone suggest a good source of perspex near Chichester?

TIA.
Probably depends on where you go , People like Sunlight Plastics , Hadlow Marine etc will cut to a template and polish the edges. In other words they will make finished washboards for you.

If you want to go for the cheaper option buy from a local or ebay plastics supplier and cut to size and shape and polish the edges yourself

If you have 2 or3 part washboards ( a lot easier to stow than a one piece job ) you will need the mating edges bevelled if not rebated

Consider polycarbonate... It's unbreakable (that's why it's used for riot shields) but a bit more easily scratched than acrylic (Perspex etc)

If you want them to last forever protect them from sunlight

Firms who supply "marine" windows may be more likely to have the tinted perspex you probably want.
 
Find a perspex supplier who will flame polish the edges of the perspex. I have perspex washboards and found the cut edges that perspex suppliers cut are OK but the corners need the sharp edge filing off.

polycarbonate is stronger but not as rigid as perspex and if thin can be bent jump out of the side slides.

I made a set of polycarbonate washboards but bolted a stainless steel angle around the edges to stiffen then up.
 
Instead of bevelling or rebating you can have them in 2 halves and simply glue a thin strip of acrylic on the top half so that it sits over the bottom one - then no water will come in. its not as neat - but might be cheaper. As said most suppliers will polish and 'round' the edges.

Jonathan
 
If you want to go for the cheaper option buy from a local or ebay plastics supplier and cut to size and shape and polish the edges yourself

Is it easy to work with? If I buy online can I cut it with a normal woodsaw and then file the edges?
 
I was planning to do the drilling myself. It needs two small holes. Would that be a mistake?
Should not be a problem. ... It would be a big exaggeration to say that drilling Perspex is tricky but needs a tiny bit more care than whacking a couple of hole through a bit of ply.
 
Is it easy to work with? If I buy online can I cut it with a normal woodsaw and then file the edges?
I am ( or at least used to be) very much a DIYer but I think I'd get them cut to a template and the edges finished.
 
You can easily DIY with a jigsaw fitted with a sharp wood blade + some water lube with a bit of washing up liquid in it. That stops the swarf jamming up the cut.
Tidy up the edges with a sanding block using diminishing grades of paper. Wet & Dry does nicely and can go down to a polished finish, if needed.
 
I have just purchased some polycarbonate for our club tractor relacement window
Supplier was---- Plastic supplier
They do acrylic/perspex as well as polycarbonate.
I cut it with a jigsaw & rounded the edges with a coarse file & sanding block
To get nice lines I stuck masking tape on with one edge along the line. I then followed that edge with the saw. I found that I achieved a better job than following a line.
I drilled all the fixing holes & hinge & handle recesses ( It was in the door) easily enough with no special lubrication. The hinge recesses did not fit quite when I mounted the door so I had to trim with a Dremel & cut off blade. This tended to melt the plastic, so I did a small section at a time.
Not worth paying a firm to do it for me- But then I had a joinery works before I retired, so know how to do it-- & how to charge as a company.
 
I’ve never got over the difference in price between clear and smoked acrylic/polycarbonate. For a 10mm thick square piece of smoked acrylic for my 23ft boat I was quoted £200.
 
I bought the washboards for my Hunter 490 from a plastic supplier on eBay, who were happy to cut to the millimetre including one bevelled cut. Of course there was a fair bit of work to do after that, but the cut plastic costs me about 1/10 of a pair of washboards from a marine supplier.

Caution: I also bought a pair of blanks for my Victoria 26 but have never completed, fitted or used them because they are just too bloody heavy. Polycarbonate is roughly twice as dense as plywood.
 
I'm thinking I turn up at somewhere that sells perspex with my old washboard to use as a template. Then they cut it to shape and I take it away and file the edges down or somesuch? Is that that the best way to do the job? Or can they cut it so the edges are 'nice'? Is that the workflow or is there a better way to end up with a perspex washboard?

My reasons for going for perspex are so I never have to replace them again, and so I don't need to varnish them. (I also suspect getting the edges nice on sawn plywood is a nightmare.) Sound logic?

Anyone suggest a good source of perspex near Chichester?

TIA.
You can smooth the rough cut edges of acrylic with a smoothing plane if the blade is sharp.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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