Parts for Quick Windlass please ( manual retrieve not for me now)

Mike k

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After getting to our mark in Liverpool bay early yesterday for a good fishing session ( practising trim tabs all the way out!) but when i went on the bow to set the anchor- motor worked fine ( the sound of the motor working) but the shaft in the gypsey didnt turn - well maybe a cuople of judders occassionally.
I found a piece of metal in the anchor locker below the unit which resembed the connecting bar between two door handles at home- the bit that hgoes through the door. this was only about an inch long and couldnt tell if it had snapped,sheared of just taken some wear at one end. The manual shows a 'key' which looks to run along the shaft splin and i wonder if that has broken and the metal i founds was part of it.

Anyway we relesed the anchor manually and thought we will deal with the retrieve( a first for me) later in the day. Well for anybody thinking of whether to invest in a windlass let me tell you the manual retreive was an unpleasant experience.
The sea state had got lumpy and the bow pitching and heaving was quite energy sapping and at time a bit hairy- anyway with the help of my friend motoring the boat forwards I ended up with a few cuts and wet through but anchor safely back and restrained.Dont want to repeat it at all!!

I sm going today to take the unit and get to the bottom of it but know for sure i will need some parts- can anyone help me please with pointers to hwhere to try for parts - its an Quick Aster 500w 8mm gypsey type( no drum)

Any help with contacts gratefully recieved

Mike

P.s fishing was great - caught Gurnard.Plaice. Whiting Smoothound and dabs- mainly dabs came home!
 
Manual available here:

http://www.quickitaly.com/images/pdf_downld/man07a_asterx_3_5.pdf

Pg. 16 shows exploded view & parts

Thanks Spi D- great help as usual.

Anybody on here know where i can get spares for this Quick Aster 512 windlass????

Here is a picture of the offending article- you can see that the key which is placed into the spline can simply slip down and out- it looks like some wear at the base of the spline because the key should be rounded top and bottom and slot into a preformed groobve the exact shape of the key.There is no rounding of the key at the bottom and of course the the shaft will let it slip down anbd wriggle out between the housing and the shaft which it did!!I cannot see anmy good reason why the damage to the sgahtft would occur ass there is nothing below the gearbox to rub against-could this be a bearing issue ?
Thre is also a pair of wires on the picc - according to the manua these are connected to a sensor in the unit- with all the meesiing getting it off i wonder whether these should be connected somewhere though the manual doesnt show them connecting- do they just hang loose as tails??
100_3662.jpg


Any advice welcome

thanks

Mike
 
My experience is that you'd have to replace the whole unit. Too costly if the only issue is to keep the key in place.

Fix it somehow (weld, glue, drill & pin or even give it a slight bend to make it stick).

The two wires are for the counting sensor (optional).
 
My experience is that you'd have to replace the whole unit. Too costly if the only issue is to keep the key in place.

Fix it somehow (weld, glue, drill & pin or even give it a slight bend to make it stick).

The two wires are for the counting sensor (optional).

My thoughts exactly if i have to do that- i am convinced that TIG weld to the top and bottom of the key is the best answer now- why would they make the key separate rather than integral in the shaft?????????

Thanks for answer on the wires- I will just ignore them - even cut em off.

Cheers

Mike
 
Benefit of a separate key is that it can be replaced. And that the shaft can pass seals and bearings during assembly if the key is put on afterwards.

You only need to prevent it from sliding out so a small dot weld to the end of the shaft under the key should do. And can be removed.
 
Benefit of a separate key is that it can be replaced. And that the shaft can pass seals and bearings during assembly if the key is put on afterwards.

You only need to prevent it from sliding out so a small dot weld to the end of the shaft under the key should do. And can be removed.

Thanks Spi d

do you think the cause of the abrasion at the base of the shaft is bearing related- i have felt the shaft and there is a slight movement?
 
Mike,

not familiar with the particular windlass, but I do know that I restored my 35yo Lofrans horizontal windlass with only a set of seals, bearings a few keys and a lot of elbow grease. Cost of parts in the 20-30euro region, time well, up to you. Unless there's something broken I cannot see any reason for not restoring it if you have the time and abilities. Further, if something happens at sea you'll be able to judge what's happening and even maybe take action on the spot saving the day and your back :rolleyes:

Cannot see how this axle and key fit in the gearbox underneath but I'd expect that there's no way this key could slip down. If that's the case though, a spot of mig and carefully sanding it so that it will fit in the bearing and not make a mess of it should be enough.

good luck

V.
 
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