Outboard overboard

[Guest]

Been playing on tender in marina, returned back to mother ship and disembarked tender and then dropped outboard into the drink. High tide at moment. low tide of 2m tomorrow afternoon what damage do you think i have sustained subject to retrieving engine at low tide . Outboard is Honda 5hp 4 stroke engine , is it a write off please help.

 

[BarryH]

Its a good thing wasn't running. It would be bye bye motor. If its in salt water, retrieve it and put it in a tank of fresh water. This'll stop the thing rusting in the air. It'll need a total strip and clean and dry. Then rebuild the thing paying particular attention to the electrics and lube the whole thing with plenty of oil as you rebuild. Hopefully you should be ok. Lots of work tho. OR leave it there and say "Sod it, I'll claim on the insurance". A lot less hassel!!

OK, to hell with it. Unbolt it and we'll use it as an anchor!

 

[Chris771]

Mark,

Whilst I do have a 5hp Honda I have never dropped that overboard, but did hovever once drop a larger Seagull overboard (before I learned always to have a rope onto both boat & outboard when moving it about). With that one I simply dived in to 3m of water tied a rope on it and then pulled it up. I then profusely flushed it in lots of fresh water, drained and replaced the gearbox oil, disposed of petrol & cleaned carburettor and dried it off in utility room next to central heating for a couple of days. With new petrol it then started on the third pull and is still working many years later.

Working with underwater electronics & hydraulics I have learned to appreciate that when something becomes flooded the most important next step after recovery is to try and remove all traces of salt from the ingress.

If the motor has only been submerged for 24 hours the amount of corrosion will be negligable, rapid oxidation will only take place once it is out of the water and exposed to a ready source of oxygen whilst still covered in and containing, salt water.

Depending on the depth at HW (assuming 10m) it would have been subjected to about 15 psi above ambient and the volume of air in all void spaces would have been reduced by 50% at HW. You can therefore safely assume that any air spaces will now have at least 50% salt water in them by the time you surface it.

I would suggest you start off with a good hosing down with top cover off, then get it home.

Once at home drain the oils and see how much water comes out with the oil. IF there is a significant amount I would flush the insides of the engine and gearcase with fresh water. Then remove rocker covers and do everything possible to get as much of the fresh water out as possible (I know this sounds strange, but the object is to get the real killer, salt, out of it), remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine several times. Tip the engine every which way to get remaining water out, spray some WD40 inside to help chase water out. Once no more water comes out refit rocker covers and refill with fresh oils. Squirt WD40 in through spark plug holes and pull over a few times, use plenty to lubricate and coat bores and valve seats. Strip and clean carburettor (water may block tiny jets, so dry it in warm place). Dry off electronic ignition module (hopefully it will have been well enough sealed to resist water ingress, if not it will be a new module if no sparks).

Re-assemble and check for sparks before refitting plugs. Providing you have pertol and sparks it will start.

Donk it in your open topped 45 gallon drum of water which you keep at home for this purpose, with enough water to cover leg to normal level and start engine. I would then run it for a couple of hours to get it good and hot and evaporate off any remaining water inside. Drain oils again to check for water, then refill with fresh oils once more

Finally before putting cover on, give it a spray of WD40. Hopefully it should have survived without too much damage. Even if the electronic ignition module will not spark, it is worth putting it in the airing cupboard on top of immersion heater for a couple of days before panicking and rushing out to buy a new one.

Having learned the hard way, as I did, no doubt in future you will always keep a painter attached to the engine which is not long enough to allow the powerhead to submerge.

Hope it comes out ok.


Chris


www.impact-computers.net/boat/cruiser.htm

 

[mtb]

Re: agreed complete strip down

Cos the silt or sand will be every where and act like an abrasive !!.
The alternative is to give it to me while you claim your insurance , I'l rebuild it and add it to the collection !.
Hey I'l pay postage .
Cheers
Mick

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/boats
I want a big steel ex trawler / tug v / cheap or swap for tug

 

[chippie]

I had a 9.9 hp fourstroke go in the drink (on the end of its safety chain) and as it was a few years old the insurance company wrote it off because a strip down and reassembly would be too expensive. Let your insurance sort it.