Outboad in the car

gjeffery

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New Outboard

I have a choice - to leave the OB on the boat, and risk getting it stolen OR use it to come ashore and then take it home by car.

If I take the (2 stroke) outboiard home in the car, it is really necessary to drain the carburettor chamber on each occasion, or can I get away with propping the OB so that the engine is slightly higher than the prop?

I am also playing with various strategies for lifting the outboard between the transom of the tender and the transom of the boat, but single handed.

I am grateful for any advice

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ChrisE

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Regarding taking the o/b home, we are on a mooring a mile or so from land and are not great rowers so we always motor to shore and take the o/b home.

I can't answer for all outboards but we have misused our Yam Malta for 10 years. We stand it up to drain the saltwater out of the shaft, turn off the stopcock from the fuel tank, ensure that the fuel cap and vent are closed and lob it in the back of the Landie. It's still going strong and seems to thrive on abuse, just like the Landie.

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bullen

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We bought a harness for the outboard,which stays there permanently and have a removable cargo boom/ single davit that we store in locker when not needed. It does make it easier to get from tender to boat but is better with two people but at a push one person could do the whole thing.
Jan

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VicS

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Run most of the petrol out of the carb by turning the fuel off a bit before you get to the shore and if necessary row the last little bit.
Always avoid getting the prop higher than the engine to prevent the possibility of getting water into the cylinder.
Lay the engine down in which ever way the manufacturers intended and protect the car boot with some old newspapers.
What make, size are we talking about? I can manage to get between boat and dinghy with a Seagull 40 Featherweight which weighs around 13kg but the trouble is they get a bit heavier each year and by the time you start looking forward to your pension even the smallest will be getting a tad on the heavy side.

The only time I had an outboard stolen it was from the locked cabin.

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cameronke

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Be careful when running a two stroke dry. The source of lubrication is in the petrol supply and running lean will therefor starve the engine of oil, accelerating wear.

regards

Cameron

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boatless

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I always run the carb dry too - to take it ashore or onto the boat.

I found a line from a mooring cleat up and over the pushpit with a snaphook to latch to the ob's grab handle effective, with a safety line as well if conditions dictate. Adjusted so the ob is reasonably clear of the water when dangling. Then relatively easy to lift it onto boat / pad on pushpit.

My xFiL used to use a shop-bought harness on his, but I pointed out that it had been in UV permanently for 3 years....

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steve123

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I carry mine (4hp 4 stroke) on the tow bar. I already had a Witter cycle carrier bracket attached to the towbar (see www.witter-towbars.co.uk/cycle_carriers/witter_cycle_carriers.aspx). A neighbour made me a frame, which fits in this bracket in place of the cycle holder, on which to mount the outboard. I do get some funny looks going up the motway but it keeps the smell, grease etc out of the car and gives the kids more room. The number plate is slightly obscured so should probably use a lighting board and the prop should be covered.

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pissativlypossed

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Accepted practice is to run the carb dry after use anyway, the idea being that with an empty float chamber the petrol can not evaporate and leave oily deposits to gum up the jets etc. We do this after every use, just turn the fuel tap off and run the engine until it stops. Result, easier starting and no petrol leaks or smell in your car.

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gjeffery

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Re: Should have got an electric one

But how far does it go, and whats the power like. It is difficult to imagine an electric outboard matching the duty of a 3 to 4HP IC engine



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Evadne

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Re: Should have got an electric one

True, it's not for long distance voyaging, so not suitable for creek crawling away from the boat. And I have had to get used to a slower speed, but for ferrying to the mooring and back it is ideal. Yes, the "fuel tank" is heavier and refuelling is not straightforward (esp. at sea!). On the other hand you don't carry petrol, it always starts first time, SWMBO, who hates the internal combustion engine, is happy to use it and the battery makes a useful spare for the big boat. And it is quiet.

My 24lb thrust device delivers approx. 1hp at the prop, I reckon, and is the smallest you usually see. It will push a rigid tender with 2 people along the creek, against a F4-5 if necessary. More wind and I use oars as well, and I try not to go out if its windier than that. It runs easily for 2 hours off a Delco 60Ah battery, probably more, so a 48lb unit would get you out to your boat and back each weekend in comfort unless you're a lot further form the slip than I am.


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whisper

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With me it was a case of just turning fuel valve off on arrival at the shore, let water drain from leg for a few seconds, if tank is integral then tighten cap & vent screw and then sling it in the boot. Never had any trouble with starting my Johnson 4 using this careless method.
Have now got a little 4 stroke which is rather different - hope I remember.

Re lifting engine from boat to dinghy or vice versa I found it very much easier if dinghy was tied tightly from both bow & stern to the mothership.

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LadyInBed

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I also follow this procedure.

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pete

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My main sheet is connected to the cockpit sole with a large snap shackle, which I attach to the 4 hp Yamaha outboard the difficulty is stopping it swinging into the side of the boat but at least it cannot fall overboard and you have the extra purchase of your main sheet tackle.
Not perfect but it works for me.
Pete

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