Keith-i
Well-Known Member
I’m replacing a number of cleats which have been on the boat for 30 plus years and were secured with standard nuts. Is it prudent to use nylocs on the replacements?
Nylocs or not?
- Thread starter Keith-i
- Start date
RichardS
N/A
Nylocs have advantages in a wet environment apart from being self-locking so I reckon that it's a good idea, although they do need two people if both sides are not easily accessible.
Richard
Richard
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Nyloc's are basically called for in vibration or other factors that require the extra locking resistance to loosening. In the case of Cleats ? I think it would be purely personal preference.
Obviously stainless is called for unless cleats are other than Stainlees or Plastic .... ie bronze etc.
Obviously stainless is called for unless cleats are other than Stainlees or Plastic .... ie bronze etc.
Poignard
Well-Known Member
Personally I would not bother.
If access is difficult, as it often is on my boat, it is a great advantage to be able to run the nuts along the bolt with your fingers and then only use a spanner to tighten as opposed to having to use a spanner all the way.
You could always use a spring washer if you wished.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
My guess is that once you install your new cleats you will be very unlikely to remove them. I also assume you will be applying backing plates.
Assuming you are using stainless bolts why not simply use stainless dome nuts and Loctite.
Jonathan
Assuming you are using stainless bolts why not simply use stainless dome nuts and Loctite.
Jonathan
Moodysailor
Well-Known Member
Double standard nuts (assuming you have enough thread length left) would be my choice. That way, you have the benefit of both types of nut. They are also much easier than nylocs to install if you have a long bolt.
Nylocs are good, but I've seen plenty of cases where they have galled the threads on SS fasteners, which then requires the bolt to be cut.
Nylocs are good, but I've seen plenty of cases where they have galled the threads on SS fasteners, which then requires the bolt to be cut.
RichardS
N/A
Although galling is not a feature particular to Nylocs ..... any SS nut might do it unless you use a suitable grease.
Richard
Moodysailor
Well-Known Member
True it is possible, but a greatly reduced probability with a regular nut as you don't generate the heat from friction that a nyloc does. But yes, it can, and does happen if the threads are not clean with a non-locking nut.
Caraway
Well-Known Member
I always cut the bolt to length. Long, exposed thread is not good.
Moodysailor
Well-Known Member
We're blessed with a raised capping rail moulded into the hull, so the bolts that hold down our deck fittings are in no danger of protruding into anything they shouldn't. So we have not had to cut our bolts down in those areas.
You raise a good point though - bolts should be the correct length (but sometimes are not). It goes without saying that any bolt cut to length should have a chamfer filed or sanded onto the ends, to prevent the galling issues already mentioned.
Caraway
Well-Known Member
Not so easy on a boat, but I always test fit, measure, and remove. Then, in a vice shorten the bolt and dress the end with a file so the nut screws on easily.
If they are nor stainless it is imperative as corroded threads will hamper future work. On a practical note it makes attachment and removal less of a chore, and avoids the chance of damage (to thread or human).
If they are nor stainless it is imperative as corroded threads will hamper future work. On a practical note it makes attachment and removal less of a chore, and avoids the chance of damage (to thread or human).
Stork_III
Well-Known Member
When cutting a bolt to length, I always (well nearly always) run a nut up the bolt passed the cut point, helps to clean the thread when wound off afterwards.
Caraway
Well-Known Member
I try to but it needs to be a plain nut, not a nylock. Sometimes a loose nut is a distraction as I usually use an angle grinder and the nut will work towards the blade. It took me ages to think about tightening the nut against the head, or putting both the bolt had and nut in the vice jaws 
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
I recently refitted some cleats on Serendipity. I used a Dremel with a mini disk cutter to trim the excess thread off. Then epoxy and woven glass matting over the nuts in preparation for the new headlinings (as per Westerly’s original build which is also belt and braces against leaks.) Plain nuts as the originals hadn’t budged for over 25 years and why change a winning formula.
RichardS
N/A
Surely, that would be a good reason to use a nyloc?
But, as you say, always clamp both the bolt head and the nut in the vice,
Richard
thinwater
Well-Known Member
We have an amazing capacity to make anything complicated. I learned how to shorten bolts by the the time I was 12, always building stuff from scraps.
Realistically, the threads will probably have some be ding compound in them from when you pushed the fastener through the hole. If not, add the thinnest film. The nut is locked.
BTW, stainless threads gall from being tightened under load (used to draw up a gap), being tightended under load, being tightened without grease (if there are risk factors), and being tightened too fast. The Nylock ring is not a factor, since it is not in the threads, aplies rotational resistance, not pressure on the threads, and is down stream. Not related.
Realistically, the threads will probably have some be ding compound in them from when you pushed the fastener through the hole. If not, add the thinnest film. The nut is locked.
BTW, stainless threads gall from being tightened under load (used to draw up a gap), being tightended under load, being tightened without grease (if there are risk factors), and being tightened too fast. The Nylock ring is not a factor, since it is not in the threads, aplies rotational resistance, not pressure on the threads, and is down stream. Not related.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
I have similar ... if I have bolts to correct length - no way I can get nut onto bolt. So I have to use overlength bolts so I can get nut started .... then its one of those tube spanners to tighten - which allows the excess bolt to sit inside tube ...
Caraway
Well-Known Member
Double some gaffer tape over with the adhesive on the outside. Stick to fingertip of your choice and stick nut on the end. Then you can position nut against the thread end easily. You may need a second person to turn the bolt to engage the nut thread.
Moodysailor
Well-Known Member
Your and my experience may vary, the point in this forum is that it is a place to share different experiences (and learnings) to give others an easier time. Personally, I've had to cut off many a bolt that has galled with a nylock nut fitted (mostly when removing, but also when tightening). You may not have had to, but that good for you.
Another comment is that bedding compound is not thread lock - in this application (holding down a cleat), it would make sense to use something more substantial to ensure the nuts cannot come undone - especially if butyl is used for bedding compound. Again - just another personal experience - your mileage may vary...
Keith-i
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the feedback all. I will be using butyl as a bedding compound so it sounds like nylocs might be a sensible precaution.
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