Norway this summer?

[Minchsailor]

I am returning to the Shetlands this summer; I now have more time on my hands (the glory of retirement...) and fancy a diversion for a few days to Norway. Unknown territory for me; it's not often that I can say that when it comes to Europe.

The Bergen area seems the obvious destination (although perhaps not Bergen itself), and it is probably not more than 36 hours (180 miles) from Lerwick (Rustler 36).

Apart from the obvious such as crossing the North Sea and avoiding the oil rigs, any advice on best landfall, 'must see' places, cruising guides, charts, on-line resources?.

 

[GHA]

Tempting, I've had simlar thoughts..

Some bits on sailing wiki:
http://www.cruiserswiki.org/wiki/Norway

 

[Angele]

Bergen is an amazing place. Do not be tempted to miss it out. Yes, the place gets packed with visitors coming off the cruise ships - typically 4 a day in summer - but it does quieten down in the evening. You can moor up right where all the action is, close to the Bryggen. Given that most things in Norway are very expensive, I was pleasantly surprised how reasonably priced the mooring fees are.

The "Norske Los" is the main almanac, but you need to speak Norwegian. (Actually, it is quite surprising how much of written Norwegian is understandable to someone who speaks none of the language, if you say the words to yourself, exactly the way it is written). From memory, there are two main cruising guides to Norway in English:

http://www.norwegiancruisingguide.com/ and http://www.theca.org.uk/catalog/publications/norway

There are 3 or 4 different ranges of paper charts, produced by the Norwegian Hydrographic Office or commercial organisations. Depending on the amount of detail you want, it could end up being quite expensive just to equip yourself with decent navigational info.

Very few people actually sail up into the Fjords. Seems to be mostly the preserve of mobos, and some of the harbours up the Fjords are quite shallow. From Bergen northwards you begin to get a reasonable tidal range (unlike the Baltic). Most yachts stick to the coast, inshore of the islands, which gives you a remarkably well protected cruising area.

I think you could happily spend weeks (or months!) cruising round the area. If you have time, then try to make it up to the Lofoten Islands. I haven't been that far north, but they sound amazing.

 

[Woodlouse]

The east coast, between Mandal and Oslo is fantastic with far better weather than the west. If you want to see a fjord then cross to Stavanger and go up the Limfjord then you have easy options if you want to go either way after.

 

[BabaYaga]

I would recommend this guide, which is available in English. Covers the area from Bergen and southwards:
http://www.lmf.no/index.php?pageID=120&openLevel=34&prodID=77#

One area we found particularly charming on our latest visit was the island of Bømlo and the Fitjar archipelago, roughly halfways between Bergen and Stavanger.

 

[PaulJS]

You might enjoy Martin Edges "Skagerrak and back" and "Floating low to Lofoten". I don't know if they are available in hard copy as I have them in Kindle.

 

[bikedaft]

would second "floatin' low to lofoten" entertaining, slightly eccentric. pdf's used to be available online ?port edgar YC website can't seem to find them now

ps did we meet you at crinan a year or two? dark green rustler 36? (we're a blue hustler 35, i was kayaking)

also our boat (but not us!) has been to norway with the previous owner;

http://www.hustler35.org/sailing.html

oddly she gets a mention in floatin low when their paths crossed...

enjoy Norway...

 

[armchairsailor]

I'd imagine an email to PEYC would get to Martin eventually. Had the chance to sail for a few ours with him - interesting chap and a nice boat.

Bergen would be a great place to stop off. Any number of destinations are within reach, but half a week will leave you wanting more,much more. Consider if travelling further afield the Molde Jazz Festival, Ålesund or Sognefjord for the stave churches. And pack a fishing rod for some cod.

 

[bikedaft]

Floatin low is on amazon - £2 for kindle edition. Well worth it

 

[Minchsailor]

ps did we meet you at crinan a year or two? dark green rustler 36? (we're a blue hustler 35, i was kayaking)

No, my Rustler has a white hull, and anyway I seldom venture south of Ardnurmurchan these days. There is a dark green R36 that I have seen around.

 

[oldvarnish]

Essential: https://www.imray.com/publications/Imray+Pilots/Pilots+and+Cruising+Guides/North+West+Europe/IB0166/

 

[pagoda]

We took our boat to Norway in 2014, Lossie to Sandnes near Stavanger. Spent most of a month exploring up to Bergen and back. Glorious scenery, friendly locals. Infested with mobos (some with masts and sails!). We were very often the oddities with sail up and motor off. Winds closer inshore or in fjords are often very fluky.
The Northern North Sea is wide enough to catch some iffy weather while crossing - either on departure or close to land fall. We met Brits in Bergen who were on a 3 day max stay before charging back to the UK. Far too tight a schedule! Boat diesel is widely available and OK price wise. Ordinary food in shops is not too extreme. Eating out is prohibitive as is alcohol (take your allowance!). There are lots of village / town quaysides at modest cost (just remember the sea is mainstream activity in Norway- as popular as football in the UK). Anchoring is possible in some places, but it's often too deep or bare rock on the bottom. I'm sure you will have a great time.
Beware of cold on the nights crossing over. We left Scotland on 28May and it was bitterly cold at night.

 

[Koeketiene]

Apart from the obvious such as crossing the North Sea and avoiding the oil rigs, any advice on best landfall, 'must see' places, cruising guides, charts, on-line resources?.

This is well worth the money: http://www.norwegiancruisingguide.com/

 

[dovekie]

Taking you at your word, if you have a few days, then the Bergen area is good, and it's nearest. But it's all good. We had five years over there. There are at least dozen cruising areas as spectacular as Skye. The waters are almost all sheltered. The charts are better than admiralty. The sea marks are very comprehensive. There's no tide to speak off until north of Lofoten. The public transport is good. The phone signal is astonishingly good. Harbours everywhere. It hardly gets dark. Even the fishing is good. And I agree with the comments about food and alcohol.

 

[armchairsailor]

Floatin low mentions a man with a white van who mooches around Lerwick harbour who runs a service supplying yachtsmen with their duty free allowance. ;-)

 

[Viking]

The Ocean Cruising Club (O.C.C.) are running a rally in 2016! Called the 'Arctic Rally'. Leaves Bergen early June and heading, with planned stop overs, up to Lofoten. If your interested in a 'cruise-in-company'
You can now leave your boat in Norway for 2 years (1+1) and the UK is a couple of flying hours away.
Lots of great places to see and visit. I've been here 12 years and still only seen about a tenth of places and anchorages, just in my area!

 

[Minchsailor]

t in Norway for 2 years (1+1)

That thought had passed through my mind. What are the options (location ashore etc), likely costs?

If I was to do this, the sensible thing would be somewhere a bit northern, as I can cruise N this year, then come S next year.

 

[awol]

Floatin low mentions a man with a white van who mooches around Lerwick harbour who runs a service supplying yachtsmen with their duty free allowance. ;-)

Quantities are based on the number of crew and anticipated length of voyage and are 0.185l of spirits and 1.5l of wine per man.day. - "Excise Notice 69a: Duty Free Ships' Stores" tells you more. As I understand it, provided your final destination is north of Elbe or south of Brest you can load in your home port and consume even if you stop at other UK ports on the way.
NB - drinking 1/4 bottle of spirits and 2 bottles of wine a day may exceed the UK Government's guidelines of 3-4 units a day!

 

[bikedaft]

the title "floating low" refers to the large quantity of beer that he had on board for personal consumption

 

[dunedin]

Quantities are based on the number of crew and anticipated length of voyage and are 0.185l of spirits and 1.5l of wine per man.day. - "Excise Notice 69a: Duty Free Ships' Stores" tells you more. As I understand it, provided your final destination is north of Elbe or south of Brest you can load in your home port and consume even if you stop at other UK ports on the way.
NB - drinking 1/4 bottle of spirits and 2 bottles of wine a day may exceed the UK Government's guidelines of 3-4 units a day!

Clearly we have found your specialist area of expertise ;-) Does sound sufficient