joeh
New member
has anyone have experience of using sand from the beach in mix with 2 part paint for painting the deck ? how and what cleaning of the sand is invovled ?
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non skid
- Thread starter joeh
- Start date
ccscott49
Active member
Foundry sand is the best stuff, been washed, dried and salt free. Beach sand, I would doubt you would get all the salt out of it, but maybe. You can also get a white type sand that they use on some bar floors. I'm sure there will be other posters with more info. Common question.
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joeh
New member
don't really know what a foundry is. doubt they have one here. some sand on the bar floor here but they are from the beach. lots of beach sand 20 m from where i'm parked though.
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ccscott49
Active member
Sorry, a foundry is where they make castings with molten iron or other metals, they use a very fine equal graind sand as the medium to make the casts (moulds)with. There is normally lots of it around and a pound or two will come free. But like I said, I'm sure there will be flks who know, as soon as they get there bums out of bed, over here, in Europe!
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sailorman
Well-known member
imho get your wallet out & buy a tin of international deck paint.
1 tin will give you 2 cts on your boat,
spoil the ship for apth of tsr???.
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1 tin will give you 2 cts on your boat,
spoil the ship for apth of tsr???.
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William_H
Well-known member
International do an additive for deck non skid which I found OK. Get the smallest pack as it goes a long way. Maybe it is just expensive sand or may be a plastic but it spreads well and is quite cheap. You put another coat of paint over the coat with the "sand " to give a smoother feel. It can be mixed into the paint before brushing or sprinkled onto the wet paint. Sprinkle may be more even. regards will
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Evadne
Active member
It's the same with the Blakes stuff, which I use. I think the powder is probably a sand, but it's much much finer than any beach sand I've seen. You don't need much and I always have some left over. The kiln-dried sand they use for filling in the gaps in block paving is the closest I've seen to it. If you do use beach sand I'd try and sieve it through muslin or a flour sieve, to remove shells and animal life, then bake it in the oven for a bit.
I can remember seeing the recommendations for making a non-slip deck on a dinghy with ordinary sand. I think it was 2-3 coats of varnish, sprinkle the sand onto the wet varnish, brush off when dry, then 2-3 coats on top of that to seal it.
Alternatively, why not write a nice begging letter to International and Blakes, explaining your remoteness from the nearest chandlery and asking for a "sample" of the non-slip additive?
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I can remember seeing the recommendations for making a non-slip deck on a dinghy with ordinary sand. I think it was 2-3 coats of varnish, sprinkle the sand onto the wet varnish, brush off when dry, then 2-3 coats on top of that to seal it.
Alternatively, why not write a nice begging letter to International and Blakes, explaining your remoteness from the nearest chandlery and asking for a "sample" of the non-slip additive?
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robind
New member
Washed silver sand from a builders merchant (used for kids sand pits among other things)
Regards
Rob
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Regards
Rob
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snowleopard
Active member
the stuff blakes sell under the name 'non-slip pearls' is microspheres. it is obtainable at a tiny fraction of the price from grp suppliers under the name Fillite. add to gloss paint at 10-20% by volume and you get a non-slip surface without the abrasive properties of sand.
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Gordonmc
Active member
Apply the paint as normal, then sprinkle with granulated sugar.
The sugar will dissolve out once wet, leaving a texture.
Not my idea, so you're welcome to it.
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The sugar will dissolve out once wet, leaving a texture.
Not my idea, so you're welcome to it.
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Shakey
New member
As an aside, I had a very close acquaintance with a non-slip sanded deck once.
It was on one of Her Majesty's steely grey harbingers of death and destruction, whilst I was running in shorts during a PT session. The ship rolled, I fell, and it took lots of skin off my knee and shin.
The resulting scabs were about 3mm thick, took about 4 weeks to disappear completely and the skin was red for months afterwards.
So don't go running on your yacht if you non-skid the deck!
<hr width=100% size=1>It could have been worse - it could have been me.
It was on one of Her Majesty's steely grey harbingers of death and destruction, whilst I was running in shorts during a PT session. The ship rolled, I fell, and it took lots of skin off my knee and shin.
The resulting scabs were about 3mm thick, took about 4 weeks to disappear completely and the skin was red for months afterwards.
So don't go running on your yacht if you non-skid the deck!
<hr width=100% size=1>It could have been worse - it could have been me.
Spuddy
Active member
But foundry sand balls up - got clay in it, at least the mansfield i used to use did.
Play piy sand would be suitable and easy to get.
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Play piy sand would be suitable and easy to get.
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jon
New member
I understand from a pro in this area that silicon carbide grit is v good as does not wear as fast, unfortunately he has used his supply up and does not know where to obtain more,any suggestions?
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snowleopard
Active member
the grit may not wear as fast. same can't be said of you or your clothing when working on deck!!!
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