Nibblers

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JonJon

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Anybody used one on stainless steel? I was thinking of trying to cut an access hole in my stainless fuel tank with one. I think the stainless is about a 1mm thick. Seemed an easier prospect when standing on my head than a hacksaw - what does the team think?
 
I've used Fein nibblers for roofing sheets and so on. I think you would have to de-rate the nibbler cut thickness by about 50% for stainless or take your time and have some new punches and dies fitted and to hand.
The idea is a good one because you won't get the heating which blunts normal cutting edges, well not as much as normal.
 
Fein nibblers look a bit pricey for my budget. I was thinking of a more downmarket version but had also come to the conclusion that I would have to derate by 50% or so. Mind you every time I choose a "cheap" option tool I end up throwing money away cos they are not up to the task.
 
I was afraid you'd say that. Still maybe I can hire one - not so easy in Cartagena. What is Spanish for Nibbler?
 
I cut through mine with an angle grinder and a steel cutting disc. This will create lots of debris however. Have you thought how you will fit the removable inspection plate once you have cut the hole. 1mm plate, if it is that thick, wont stay flat and its a bit thin to take a thread for the fixing bolts to go into. I had a flange welded into my tank that the inspection plate bolts up to all fabricated from 6mm plt. There is also the problem of how to seal the bolts. I used dowty seals under the heads of all the fixing bolts. Its a good idea but it isnt as straightforward as hack out a hole and cover it with a piece of plate. Definitely a tank out job!!
 
Ah right have given this some thought. Planning to make up a rectangular backing plate / frame with bolts or nuts welded on which I can insert through the aperture small side first and locate under drilled holes around perifery of the aperture. Probably nuts welded on so as I can hold it with one bolt whilst I twist it to line up. Then Nitrile gasket and bolt plate on top - maybe an o ring round each bolt head too. How does that sound at least if I drop it in the tank it wont go out the 6 mm pipe to the engine unlike the dollops of sealant someone has used to seal the level gauge in with.
 
If a circular hole would be any good, a holesaw with plenty of cutting fluid in a slow (but torquey) drill would be probably the neatest way.
 
Had a Black and Decker one which gave no trouble for years and I used it on stainless as well as general sheet metalwork but cannot find one on their website so maybe they no longer make them.

They produce lots of horseshoe shaped swarf that sticks in your soles if you walk on it and scratches floors. You have to create a large hole for the head to ender if its a flat surface. You would need to file the finished edge smooth if you planned to be rubbing against it when using the access hole.

Personally I would use a reasonable quality jigsaw with variable speed. I recently bought a Worx one from Argos which is fine and has a 10mm capacity in aluminium so should do thin stainless without problem. More likely to find a future use for the jigsaw I would have thought.
 
Make up a frame of 30mm wide flat 5mm thick square / rect of the size of hatch you need. Second make up a flat plate lid the same size of the outside of the frame.

Weld or get welded studs into frame to go through matching holes on the plate. Cut hole of the inside size of the frame in tank with small angle grinder. Drill holes in tank to match plate lid. insert frame through holes in tank from insideglue/seal with sikaflex. Get some self adhesive foam rubber strip like draft strip and stick to plate/ lid. Fit plate/lid over studs and fix down with nuts and washers.

A small engineering shop should be able to make frame/plate if you do not have equipment.

Did this on my stainless water tanks but used polycarb for lid.

This is a lid covering my sonar transducer done the same a my tank lid which was square
web0735.jpg
 
mmm have been giving the jig saw a bit more thought since its been suggested although my own bottom of the range model always seems to shake me to bits on thin plate section and I have visions of everything work hardening and blunt blades. bear in mind Im upside down in the lazarette while I'm doing this. Maybe an up market job with a slow powerful speed is the answer.

The postion of the tank on the sun fizz is such that I dont think I can remove it very easily at all - its glassed in in places that are pretty inaccessible - by destroying the tank I could probably remove it.
 
The general guide to sawing any steel is to have min 3 teeth in contact with the material at all times.

With 1mm thick SS you will need a very fine tooth saw blade for your jig saw which are not available.

To try with a larger pitch blade will result with broken blades a possible damage to you.
 
I had to cut up a rusty fuel tank last year(2mm thick mild steel) and was also going to use a nibbler until I was advised by a maintenance engineer to use a 'Reciprocating Saw'. It worked a treat! very fast, minimal noise and much better than a nibbler. You can hire them.
 
Many thanks guys, I think El Nibbler has it by a short margin on thin stainless I shall return to Spain suitably armed to do the dirty deed.
 
Take care with these nibblers. I know someone who has suffered severe painful and permanent damge to the stuctures in hs arm as a result of using one for a prolonged period. Something similar to RSI I think.
 
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