Newbie - sterndrives or amateur root canal treatment?

Volvo ones tough to remove / service, mercury ones a bit better as far as i can see
I've never come across that view. My mechanic removes them for a bellows change every two years and replaces the oil in between. If water is discovered then it's a bit more of a strip down and flush.

But it is very helpful to have a mechanic that is quick and doesn't charge a fortune by the hour.
 
I've never come across that view. My mechanic removes them for a bellows change every two years and replaces the oil in between. If water is discovered then it's a bit more of a strip down and flush.

But it is very helpful to have a mechanic that is quick and doesn't charge a fortune by the hour.
That's how I was with my Volvo sterndrive. No dramas. Oil change and bellows around 2 years and check for oil ingress. I had a bearing replaced once as there was slight play. That's it. I think it was a Volvo 280 leg if my memory serves me right.
 
I think the point has already been made but assuming the OP is in the used boat market as opposed to brand (or nearly) new the outboard suggestion is a bit of a red herring as boats of the assumed size that the OP is looking at simply don’t have them.
 
I think the point has already been made but assuming the OP is in the used boat market as opposed to brand (or nearly) new the outboard suggestion is a bit of a red herring as boats of the assumed size that the OP is looking at simply don’t have them.
True, but it doesn't really matter. The thread lends itself to the wider comparison. It's not going to confuse anything.. Might be interesting to some.
 
I've never come across that view. My mechanic removes them for a bellows change every two years and replaces the oil in between. If water is discovered then it's a bit more of a strip down and flush.

But it is very helpful to have a mechanic that is quick and doesn't charge a fortune by the hour.
ok, guess i was not clear enough, getting the back end of the drive off is relatively simple if maintained, getting the rams off the transom plate, volvo is 'interesting'
simpler on the mercury out drives
 
That's how I was with my Volvo sterndrive. No dramas. Oil change and bellows around 2 years and check for oil ingress. I had a bearing replaced once as there was slight play. That's it. I think it was a Volvo 280 leg if my memory serves me right.

2years for bellows ? I was hoping for 5 !!! My leg is a 280 on the AQ170 VP engine.
 
2years for bellows ? I was hoping for 5 !!! My leg is a 280 on the AQ170 VP engine.
It was a long time ago now.. Thinking about it I doubt I had them replaced at 2 years, they probably were checked at 2 years but not replaced every time. Apols for the confusion
 
I think the issue is simpler and more complicated. I've had the 'benefit' (possibly) of owning Outboard, Sterndrive and Shaft drive and they all have their ups and downs. The thing for sterndrives is that they are very handy for small / medium sized motor cruisers when it comes to packaging. Engines at the stern and less cabin space loss. And without being too sweeping, they tend to be sportier performers with lower fuel use when upping the pace.

But I think a lot of people try to treat sterndrives like shaft drives, forgetting the maintenance. Oil changes, bellows and periodic internal inspection of bearings etc. (Obviously they are sending drive down a number of connected directions). But they're not rocket science. If I was going for another small / medium sized 'sporty' motor cruiser I'd be happy with sterndrives if they'd clearly been well maintaned.

On a side note I had an outboard (40hp) with a very good reputation, rebuilt and then it blew up again. Even with a power-tilt 40hp, it was a bit of an earache putting on, taking off, repairing and replacing.

My current Caterpillar shaft drives are ok, other than everything being the size of the moon and Caterpillar (in the UK) having parts prices that are slightly more expensive than liquid diamond!

I have an AMT 200 cuddy with a 150 VTEC outboard.

It's freshwater flushed after every trip, the leg is full out of the water with only a third of the transom bracket in the water.

It stays afloat 364.5 days a year.

On the half day it's pulled out on the trailer for a leg oil and engine oil change.

I don't change the impeller annually either as I have sufficient data coming from the engine to determine if it's failing.

Fuel filter is inspected and emptied to check if water ingress but not necessarily replaced annually.

My point is that modern outboards are cheap to service and fuel efficient and are certainly becoming much more popular.

Not many boats for sale at Sibs in the sub 30ft had outdrives either.

I think 40+ knots from the AMT is sporty too....


 
I changed mine at 2 years. IIRC there were two in each leg, one above the waterline and one below - if that one goes brittle and cracks the boat can sink in a few minutes. False economy hoping for longer.
I have never heard of a boat sinking in a few minutes due to cracked or damaged bellows volvo or mercruiser
Seem damaged drive bellows let a small amount of water in.
The lower bellows is the exhaust bellows which has water in all the time the boat is afloat so won't normally sink the boat.
Volvo recommend inspection annually and replacement Bi-annually.
 
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I have never heard of a boat sinking in a few minutes due to cracked or damaged bellows volvo or mercruiser
Seem damaged drive bellows let a small amount of water in.
The lower bellows is the exhaust bellows which has water in all the time the boat is afloat so won't normally sink the boat.
Volvo recommend inspection annually and replacement Bi-annually.

I was going to let it by ... but you've answered and I concur.

I am not a Mobo person and only had the 250 Volvo outdrive (I mistakenly said 280 earlier) for this season ... I was getting a small amount of water in the stern and we thought it was bellows related. Turned out to be cracked hull joint each side of engine box section. We replaced bellows / cooling pipe anyway .. when looked at after removal - the drive bellows showed start of cracks inside the folds ... not leaking - but probably would have leaked by year end.

If it had - the water would have filled the drive assembly and only trickled into stern area .. I reckon the auto bilge pump would handle it.
 
I changed mine at 2 years. IIRC there were two in each leg, one above the waterline and one below - if that one goes brittle and cracks the boat can sink in a few minutes.

Both bellows are below the waterline on my boat .
Only the UJ drive bellows risks water ingress. The exhaust bellows on my Volvo Penta outdrives have holes to allow water to drain out of you lift the boat out.

In the case of the UJ bellows there is another seal that has to be breached to let water in. But certainly if the UJ bellows splits it can sink a boat. I have witnessed this.
 
I have an AMT 200 cuddy with a 150 VTEC outboard.


My point is that modern outboards are cheap to service and fuel efficient and are certainly becoming much more popular.

Not many boats for sale at Sibs in the sub 30ft had outdrives either.
And what was the average price of those boats at SIBS? Obviously if you have the luxury of being able to afford a brand new boat, you can get one with any kind of drive system you want, but if you are buying second hand, you can only buy the boat that is on the market. You were very lucky to find your AMT200, but still I'm sure it was substantially more expensive than you could have found a similar boat with an outdrive.

You also have to look at the future if you ever need to replace the engine - as I mentioned above, you can get a factory remanufactured 4.3 long block for £4,000 or brand new for £5,000. How much is a new 150hp outboard? £15,000? You can also buy the SEI Mercruiser replacement sterndrives for around £2000 brand new.

In other words, there is no simple answer to which is best - the best one is the one you can find on the market, that you can afford to buy and run.
 
I met the owner of an older Princess on shaft drive ,based in the same marina as me.
He required a new gearbox. He told me the gearbox had cost him £10k.
 
2years for bellows ? I was hoping for 5 !!! My leg is a 280 on the AQ170 VP engine.
Only the uj bellow needs replacing every two years, the exhaust one is replaced when required based on inspection, it can last quite a few years and is thicker rubber. The boat won't sink due to the exhaust bellow failing, as it is filled with water anyway as part of the exhaust raw water cooling. But never skip replacing the uj bellow every two years.
 
Both bellows are below the waterline on my boat .
Only the UJ drive bellows risks water ingress. The exhaust bellows on my Volvo Penta outdrives have holes to allow water to drain out of you lift the boat out.

In the case of the UJ bellows there is another seal that has to be breached to let water in. But certainly if the UJ bellows splits it can sink a boat. I have witnessed this.
Interested please tell us more.
 
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I have an AMT 200 cuddy with a 150 VTEC outboard.

It's freshwater flushed after every trip, the leg is full out of the water with only a third of the transom bracket in the water.

It stays afloat 364.5 days a year.

On the half day it's pulled out on the trailer for a leg oil and engine oil change.

I don't change the impeller annually either as I have sufficient data coming from the engine to determine if it's failing.

Fuel filter is inspected and emptied to check if water ingress but not necessarily replaced annually.

My point is that modern outboards are cheap to service and fuel efficient and are certainly becoming much more popular.

Not many boats for sale at Sibs in the sub 30ft had outdrives either.

I think 40+ knots from the AMT is sporty too....


An ideal engine for a 20ft cuddy cabin.

But would you want petrol outboard power for a circa 40ft cruiser (which is what this thread is about)? I certainly wouldn't.
 
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