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petem

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and if something goes wrong in the alternator providing 18V bang goes the ECU?
My T34 has a bit of a design fault that the battery master switches are behind the helmsman's calf and can be accidentally switched off. VP warn not to run the engines with the batteries disconnected but they will still run and are known to cause erratic running.

The 'C' series of the KAD44P does have a 12v/12v regulator so I assume it was added to protect the ECU (perhaps they had a high number of failures).

I think the ECU's are EEPROM. From some Googling I did recently, it appears that a low voltage can corrupt the firmware flashing. That might explain why I had a failed ECU when I was having battery issues and perhaps explain why VP have had some success in re-flashing ECU's.

I thought Victron did a 12/12 converter for £50 or so but I can't find it now.
 

vas

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no idea Pete, that's why I'm asking.
BTW, if the supercharger clutch is powered from within the ECU, it's not going to be a couple of amps for sure.
 

BruceK

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no idea Pete, that's why I'm asking.
BTW, if the supercharger clutch is powered from within the ECU, it's not going to be a couple of amps for sure.

If the clutch is good 12Amp initial draw and 3 amp maintain. If the clutch is bad it will suck what is can
 

BruceK

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No, 2 cable Vas, at least 2 wires go to the clutch. I read the values somewhere in the Book of Words and have since empirically tested them because it's a weak point for the SC black box where the connection terminal heats up and destroysthe box.

S8hhOFa.jpg


For the brief moment the clutch is slipping it draws more amps. How it knows or why is does this is beyond my knowlege as my skill is more fitter than mechanic but if I suspect a clutch is slipping or hasnt been shimmed properly then those values are my go to.
 

Mr Googler

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5C290E05-6F49-4835-909F-58EA5CE22E4A.jpg
if you follow the diagram…..

5 is the separately fed “EDC” terminals. There’s only a single red and black 2.5mm2 cable

There are 2 x 29….7.5amp fuse for….

23 the compressor and 10 main relay.

No doubt the ECU draws naff all but if I was going to do a dc/dc I’d need to put it just after the terminals (5)

the dc/dc on kad44 p-c looks complicated to wire in

1D5D7309-ED73-4995-9AB0-7235BBF463DE.jpg
 

Mr Googler

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Before…..
A23BDFD5-0932-4C46-889D-335A870F7976.jpeg800A8786-37F9-4065-95B7-835F0577E667.jpeg

After

4A92D1BC-4C41-4FD7-BFC8-966BB621AF74.jpeg

happy with that

More bits added. lots of things left loose for now in case I put it back in the wrong order ??

Lost a bloody return line nut at some point ???More money for volvo

Check out my genuine belts! ??

F5CB2056-8EBE-4F62-9E31-E0481C02E298.jpeg
 

Mr Googler

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you also taking the head of the other one? if no, I give you a week tops to finish it!
No…not dropping the sump either ??

The time consuming bit is cleaning up, wire brushing, degreasing etc…. I’ve still got a pile of hoses caked in cracked green paint to clean up. Have to do it in bits as the thinners needed are quite strong! ?‍??‍??‍?
 

Mr Googler

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Anyone know what the “shore” rating of the engine mounts should be for kad44?

i found kamd 44 is 65 shore but the part number for the mount is different between kad and kamd.

they are all 1609 mounts
 
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