NASA EML log

ithet

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So, it's been some time since any comments on these. So how are those with them getting on reliability wise? How long you been using for? Who has the pulsed output EML 3 as opposed to EML 2?

Looking for real world results from users please.

Definitely not a ' why do you need log speed' thread again
 

Andrew_Trayfoot

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I've been using there NMEA EML transducer with a non NASA display head since the start of the season.
Antifouled with Copper Coat.
So far it has worked very well.
 

alahol2

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Fitted the EML at the start of last season with a Clipper Duet head. Antifouled with Trilux 33 (but not the 'pins'). Works extremely well even at very low speed. Toward the end of last season the calibration started to change due to some fouling. Scrubbed the transducer from the dinghy with the deck brush (don't like removing the transducer whilst in the water) and all was back to normal. So far, very much more reliable than the old paddlewheel.
 

ithet

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Thanks for replies. It seems that these EML logs reduce the frequency that the transducer needs cleaning but do not eleminate the need to altogether?

Hopefully can continue thread to get some longer term reports as experience grows.

Also, to get more reports using EML3 with ST60s.
 

ghostlymoron

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Fitted the EML at the start of last season with a Clipper Duet head. Antifouled with Trilux 33 (but not the 'pins'). Works extremely well even at very low speed. Toward the end of last season the calibration started to change due to some fouling. Scrubbed the transducer from the dinghy with the deck brush (don't like removing the transducer whilst in the water) and all was back to normal. So far, very much more reliable than the old paddlewheel.
Removing the head when afloat is no big deal. I did it regularly on my mooring to reduce fouling. It's easier with the Raymarine type with a flap valve but even with the NASA one you don't let much water in. Unscrew the cap keeping downward pressure on, smartly pull the transducer out and IMMEDIATELY place hand over the through hull, remove hand and IMMEDIATELY screw on blanking cap being careful not to cross thread it. DONT PANIC.
 

ithet

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Removing the head when afloat is no big deal. I did it regularly on my mooring to reduce fouling. It's easier with the Raymarine type with a flap valve but even with the NASA one you don't let much water in. Unscrew the cap keeping downward pressure on, smartly pull the transducer out and IMMEDIATELY place hand over the through hull, remove hand and IMMEDIATELY screw on blanking cap being careful not to cross thread it. DONT PANIC.
I really think this depends on your boat and the depth the transducer is mounted ( hence pressure). On my previous boat it would allow a lot of water into the bilge. On my current boat (even with a renewed flap) it fills up the catch tray around the transducer with some overspill and is then a faff to clear out. If it was trivial to clear the paddle wheel I wouldn't be considering the EML transducer.
 

ghostlymoron

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I really think this depends on your boat and the depth the transducer is mounted ( hence pressure). On my previous boat it would allow a lot of water into the bilge. On my current boat (even with a renewed flap) it fills up the catch tray around the transducer with some overspill and is then a faff to clear out. If it was trivial to clear the paddle wheel I wouldn't be considering the EML transducer.
I've only had experience with bilge keeler's and shallow hulls. But with a certain amount of practice didn't let in more than a cupful at worst.
 

mattnj

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Removing the head when afloat is no big deal.
of course it all depends where the unit is, if its hard to get to then its suddenly a real pain, mine was at the bottom of a deep ish locker, so needed to remove bunk cushions (full length) and lie down with arm fully stretched out.... the EML got rid of that drama completely.
 
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