Mooring - Fresh or Salt Water

[Sheppy]

I remember reading somewhere that there is quite a difference in terms of aquatic build-up on your hull depending on whether one moors in fresh or salt water – but I can’t remember which is better. I’m currently considering either a salt or high estuary mooring so hence my question as I want to minimise the damage to my hull. The boat is currently anti-fouled with a salt water version so if I decided to moor high on the river/estuary, what would I need to do, if anything.

Thank you.
Sheppy

 

[rbcoomer]

Hi Sheppy,

As I launch my boat when I use it rather than using moorings, I'm not really qualified to answer your post, but I came across it while researching anti-fouling for a friend also in a tidal river. I noticed that you had no replies and probably concluded we were a hostile bunch on here... That's really not been my experience as a newbie, but suspect lack of feedback may be because it was your first post and these have to be 'approved' before they become visible and if there was a lot of posting that day, it might have drifted down the list before it was even visible? My reply will bump your question up a bit and you might get some replies!

Have you found any answers yet elsewhere? I did come across this post too:- http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268204

It may help, but not many replies there either! Where in the UK are you? That may be a factor in the amount of growth on the hull. I would guess that water flow and pollutants could also perhaps be factors as farm run-off would probably be rich in organic matter/nitrates etc?

You could also try posting on the PBO Reader to Reader forum as that seems to be more 'technical' in terms of maintenance etc?

Hope this helps & welcome to forums

Robin

P.S. As a tip, putting 'anti-foul' in post title might also improve your readership (I searched on anti-foul otherwise might not have found/read)

 

[rafiki_]

Your main area of concern will be the anodes, zinc or aluminium for salt, magnesium for fresh water. If your boat is moored in fresh water with salt water anodes, your sterngear will be the weakest link in the chain. This is OK for excursions between the 2 on a now and again basis, but not regularly.

I don't believe there is a huge difference in antifouls between the 2 , other than usually in freshwater, there are speed restrictions, so no need for hard antifoul.

Generally you will not get barnacles etc in freshwater, and the growth rate of "beard" is much slower.

I am moored on the R Severn, and antifoul and anodes last me 2 seasons. this would not be the case in saltwater, where erosion is much more aggessive.

My assumption is that you will be connected to shorepower, which accelerates the anode erosion rate. I disconnect when I don't need heaters running.

 

[Dersel]

Your main area of concern will be the anodes, zinc or aluminium for salt, magnesium for fresh water. If your boat is moored in fresh water with salt water anodes, your sterngear will be the weakest link in the chain. This is OK for excursions between the 2 on a now and again basis, but not regularly.

I don't believe there is a huge difference in antifouls between the 2 , other than usually in freshwater, there are speed restrictions, so no need for hard antifoul.

Generally you will not get barnacles etc in freshwater, and the growth rate of "beard" is much slower.

I am moored on the R Severn, and antifoul and anodes last me 2 seasons. this would not be the case in saltwater, where erosion is much more aggessive.

My assumption is that you will be connected to shorepower, which accelerates the anode erosion rate. I disconnect when I don't need heaters running.

Hi and looking for some advise please
So I’m a newbie and doing research before buying
I’m looking at mooring a power boat on the Exe canal with a lock to the Exe estuary and out to sea
Based on what you’ve said re anodes lasting 2 seasons is it best to get a boat with river anodes and use in the sea for say a day or week then return to the canal to moor
Is 2 years a best bet and is it best to get river (magnesium) anodes

Thank you

 

[Refueler]

Baltic waters are less salty than Uk .. and in harbours with river run-off - they can be barely brackish. I last antifouled my 25 about 12yrs ago ... and she comes out with slime on the hull .. which no antifoul stops ... and with very little actual 'animals' ... she sits at home mooring in FW river.

This is straight after lift -

My other boat - the 38ft - she suffered in Swedish waters - a complete surprise ... she was encrusted with Barnies in a few places .. such as shaft, prop, transducer faces, impellors .... but generally hull was reasonably clear ...

 

[Sandy]

Hi and looking for some advise please
So I’m a newbie and doing research before buying
I’m looking at mooring a power boat on the Exe canal with a lock to the Exe estuary and out to sea
Based on what you’ve said re anodes lasting 2 seasons is it best to get a boat with river anodes and use in the sea for say a day or week then return to the canal to moor
Is 2 years a best bet and is it best to get river (magnesium) anodes

Thank you

Hello and Welcome

I used to have a sailing boat on the Exe, now on the Tamar.

An interesting concept there. Is there any particular reason for mooring on the canal and accessing the estuary? I ask as you will be extremely limited on when you can get out of the canal.

You can never give a timeframe on anodes as you have no idea what stray electricity is about with moored boats. I always check mine every three months.

 

[Tranona]

Hi and looking for some advise please
So I’m a newbie and doing research before buying
I’m looking at mooring a power boat on the Exe canal with a lock to the Exe estuary and out to sea
Based on what you’ve said re anodes lasting 2 seasons is it best to get a boat with river anodes and use in the sea for say a day or week then return to the canal to moor
Is 2 years a best bet and is it best to get river (magnesium) anodes

Thank you

Welcome to the forum

this thread is way oput of date. Usually better to start a new thread than tack onto one that is over 10 years old.

Anyway, in the past the choice was either zinc for saltwater or magnesium for fresh. The problems are that zinc becomes ineffective in fresh, but cleans off quickly when back in salt, whereas magnesium erodes very quickly in salt. If your mooring is in fresh with short term use in salt then magnesium is usually the better choice as most of the erosion happens when the boat is not being used.

however since this thread new types of anodes based on an aluminium alloy have become available which are equally effective in either salt or fresh water. These would be the better choice. Generally galvanic action is lower in fresh water because it is not as good as an electrolyte as salt.

I don't know how saline the canal water is but not such a big issue if you uyse aluminium.

 

[Dersel]

Thank you for the advise

Hello and Welcome

I used to have a sailing boat on the Exe, now on the Tamar.

An interesting concept there. Is there any particular reason for mooring on the canal and accessing the estuary? I ask as you will be extremely limited on when you can get out of the canal.

You can never give a timeframe on anodes as you have no idea what stray electricity is about with moored boats. I always check mine every three months.

hi sandy
Just looking at avenues as haven’t bought the boat yet but plan to in the spring.
we are very close to the Exe canal so great for quick access
Hadn’t really considered the Tamar as yet , but maybe one once we have gotten used to boating
Plus not sure of prices on Tamar . Ideally looking for pontoon access

I like the idea of sea for coastal harbour hops but also like the canals and rivers

Maybe I need several boats ..!!

 

[Dersel]

Welcome to the forum

this thread is way oput of date. Usually better to start a new thread than tack onto one that is over 10 years old.

Anyway, in the past the choice was either zinc for saltwater or magnesium for fresh. The problems are that zinc becomes ineffective in fresh, but cleans off quickly when back in salt, whereas magnesium erodes very quickly in salt. If your mooring is in fresh with short term use in salt then magnesium is usually the better choice as most of the erosion happens when the boat is not being used.

however since this thread new types of anodes based on an aluminium alloy have become available which are equally effective in either salt or fresh water. These would be the better choice. Generally galvanic action is lower in fresh water because it is not as good as an electrolyte as salt.

I don't know how saline the canal water is but not such a big issue if you uyse aluminium.

Thankyou tranona
Interesting re the al anodes . I presume you have to take the boat out to replace them

 

[Tranona]

Yes, but depends on where you have the anodes. Shaft drive boats usually have them on the shafts and/or on the hull but outdrives on the legs.

 

[Sandy]

Thank you for the advise

hi sandy
Just looking at avenues as haven’t bought the boat yet but plan to in the spring.
we are very close to the Exe canal so great for quick access
Hadn’t really considered the Tamar as yet , but maybe one once we have gotten used to boating
Plus not sure of prices on Tamar . Ideally looking for pontoon access

I like the idea of sea for coastal harbour hops but also like the canals and rivers

Maybe I need several boats ..!!

If you have the space at home, or can blag/rent space somewhere, and have a trailer there are several options for launching in the Estuary. Topsham and Starcross come to mind.

I've no idea about the costs at Turf are so can't compare.. On the Tamar there are a few places with pontoons; Saltash SC and Tamar River SC come to mind.

I moved from the Exe as the Harbour Master deemed my old mooring was now in the channel and moved me up to Powerham, about a mile up river from Starcross FCC - it was just as quick to get on the boat at Plymouth!

 

[oldgit]

Being moored equidistant about 12 miles from Allington Lock , ie. Fresh water (ish) and Sheerness, most definately salt, the location could be described as "Brackish".
This year has probably gone down as one of the worst years for fouling that many can remember.
Each year location area tends to produce varying levels of fouling , different types of fouling usually both.
This year produced a thick layer of slime towards the front of most boats and a good crop of barnycules on the flat more hidden to light aft sections ? and on stern gear.
Just about every combination of hard and soft, mega expensive and budget A/F would have been used with varying degrees of success.
Being motorboats, serious loss of speed resulted in a high number of boats, all given a new coat of A/F in March/April being lifted about 4 months later for a jet wash.
It may have been though lack of boat use due to rubbish weather early in season.
Suspect if you want to avoid the PITA of regular A/F , freshwater is your best option, the only way to slow down the problem in salt water is to have a drying mooring of some sort, this will restrict your boaty coming and goings, nothing worse than having to come home early to get onto your mooring, actually there is , getting there 20 mins too late and wondering what to do for the next 6 hours.